Lakesailor
New member
Cops are quite clued up around here. There again they've had years of bozos with old knackered Cavaliers towing Mastercrafts.
Trailer Problem
- Thread starter jimmycc
- Start date
gjgm
Active member
not too sure the flush kits really work; Id suggest you get the trailer serviced b4 any long trip. For me that was only once a year, and each year half the damn trailer seemed to need replacing-£500 a time(twin axle). Still, at least I was then comfortable all was going to be ok.
duncan
Active member
going to disagree - regular users (40+ launches into sea water a year / many years) reckon that they used to get 6 months out of aset of brake pads before they disintergrated and with flushing they last 2-3 years. Of course most of these are short trips with relatively small boats and many just remove the brake pads and use large tow vehicles (transits / toyota hilux) - this is not a comment on legality more on practicality!
Pete7
Well-known member
[ QUOTE ]
The bearings i have were sealed,
[/ QUOTE ] well there is sealed and there is sealed. Actually they have a rubber dust cover on them to stop dust getting in. Stick a warm bearing in saltwater and cool quickly will result in water getting in past the dust seal. If the brake shoes are badly adjusted or seized then they will also heat up the drums and bearings.
To make matters worse, the torque to remove the big bearing nut, (normally 36mm) is several hundred foot pounds. The only way I can generate enough force is to use a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on the end of that and then jump up and down on it. Broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar in January trying and lost some of the skin off my shin /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif . I borrowed 3/4" breaker bar from work which just did it.
Next problem is getting the bearings out. I took the hubs to TrailerTek just outside Winchester and borrowed there press. It needed all 12 tonnes of press to get the old bearings out. New ones also went back in with the press.
So in conclusion this isn't really a road side job, unless you carry a spare hub and some big tools. If your towing across Europe again I would have each bearing replaced before the trip, they are £26 each from Trailertek although you might find them cheaper at an car accessory shop if they can match the numbers.
Pete
The bearings i have were sealed,
[/ QUOTE ] well there is sealed and there is sealed. Actually they have a rubber dust cover on them to stop dust getting in. Stick a warm bearing in saltwater and cool quickly will result in water getting in past the dust seal. If the brake shoes are badly adjusted or seized then they will also heat up the drums and bearings.
To make matters worse, the torque to remove the big bearing nut, (normally 36mm) is several hundred foot pounds. The only way I can generate enough force is to use a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on the end of that and then jump up and down on it. Broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar in January trying and lost some of the skin off my shin /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif . I borrowed 3/4" breaker bar from work which just did it.
Next problem is getting the bearings out. I took the hubs to TrailerTek just outside Winchester and borrowed there press. It needed all 12 tonnes of press to get the old bearings out. New ones also went back in with the press.
So in conclusion this isn't really a road side job, unless you carry a spare hub and some big tools. If your towing across Europe again I would have each bearing replaced before the trip, they are £26 each from Trailertek although you might find them cheaper at an car accessory shop if they can match the numbers.
Pete
dpb
Well-known member
1) Flushing systems only flush the breaks, not the bearings.
2) Sealed bearings like those used by SBS, whilst lasting (usually) much longer than ordinary bearings, will still eventually fail and are difficult if not impossible to change on the road side. Traditional taper bearings used with spring loaded bearing savers are probably the best solution available in the UK. I have had a set of these for a year so far without problems though I will not be convinced completely until finishing our trip to S of F in June. I will have a full set of spare bearings anyway just in case. At least they are easy enough to change road side if you have to.
3) Properly adjusted taper bearings in good condition will only warm up very slightly. It is poorly adjusted / binding brakes that generate 'too hot to touch heat' which then needs time to cool.
2) Sealed bearings like those used by SBS, whilst lasting (usually) much longer than ordinary bearings, will still eventually fail and are difficult if not impossible to change on the road side. Traditional taper bearings used with spring loaded bearing savers are probably the best solution available in the UK. I have had a set of these for a year so far without problems though I will not be convinced completely until finishing our trip to S of F in June. I will have a full set of spare bearings anyway just in case. At least they are easy enough to change road side if you have to.
3) Properly adjusted taper bearings in good condition will only warm up very slightly. It is poorly adjusted / binding brakes that generate 'too hot to touch heat' which then needs time to cool.
Pete7
Well-known member
Totally agree with Dpd. If your considering your trailer options then you might like to consider completely new axles. De-Graff replaced Old Spices trailer axles 18 months ago to get away from sealed bearing. Cost £700 for 2 x 1500 kg axles made to order (trailer width needs to be taken into account) and fitted. Taper bearings as Dpd says can be changed at the side of the road with a hammer large screw driver, pair of plyers and a tub of grease.
Wrong time of year to talk to trailer manufacturers, but if you can make do until the Autumn then deals should be available.
Pete
Wrong time of year to talk to trailer manufacturers, but if you can make do until the Autumn then deals should be available.
Pete
Lakesailor
New member
I go with that. Thrust bearings can be a pain. Taper rollers are easy to adjust, easy to re-pack with grease and easy to change, (although a tapered drift is a bit kinder than a screwdriver).
I must admit though I've never had to resort to a press to remove bearings of any type. I guess when someone else does the job for you they are more aware that they may damage your hub, whereas doing it yourself that's a risk you decide to take.
I must admit though I've never had to resort to a press to remove bearings of any type. I guess when someone else does the job for you they are more aware that they may damage your hub, whereas doing it yourself that's a risk you decide to take.
Its_Only_Money
New member
[ QUOTE ]
Disco's had a towing limit of 5000kg with overrun brakes
[/ QUOTE ]
Believe that was with coupled (ie hydraulically coupled), not overrun brakes.
Disco's had a towing limit of 5000kg with overrun brakes
[/ QUOTE ]
Believe that was with coupled (ie hydraulically coupled), not overrun brakes.
landlockedpirate
Active member
Yep, I think your right.
I did question myself lower down when i changed the statement for "suitable brakes"
Either way the Disco pulled a whole lot more then, than it does now.
Mark
I did question myself lower down when i changed the statement for "suitable brakes"
Either way the Disco pulled a whole lot more then, than it does now.
Mark
motayotty
New member
Stand to be corrected but I thought that applied to air assisted or vacuum assisted brakes in that case which allowed a maximum trailer mass of 4500kg . The newer you get the less its capability. I think Landcruisers are about the only vehicle that can tow up to 4500kg now without alteration. Theres a whole load of people out there who think they can tow other peoples boats about for a fee and are unaware for hire or reward they need a tacho and possibly in the larger cases an 'O' licence. Legal nightmare and all the tacho rules have just changed. Big campers will need a tacho whether for private use or business!!! The whole essence of licencing is to make you qualify, pay and keep drivers hours. The recovery agents are crippled aswell now as they have to use tachos outside a 100km limit. I use the caravan club for breakdown as they have no trailer length limit for recovery and they are competitive. They dont even mention any weight limits! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Its_Only_Money
New member
Yep saw your correction too late /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
As always, starting and to some degree keeping trailers going isn't the issue, its always slowing down or having to slow down that causes a world of hurt... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
As always, starting and to some degree keeping trailers going isn't the issue, its always slowing down or having to slow down that causes a world of hurt... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Its_Only_Money
New member
Don't think it matters how they are coupled, it just means that (even stationary) a press on the brake pedal causes the trailer brakes to apply - ie without any rearward push on the drawbar.
Once (hmm - 30yrs ago), brought a 7t tractor, grain trailer and load from 20mph to a standstill in about 20ft (floatation tyres with bags of grip and hydraulic brakes on the trailer run off the tipping valve on the tractor), no instability at all as all the braking force was applied to the rear of the trailer....
Once (hmm - 30yrs ago), brought a 7t tractor, grain trailer and load from 20mph to a standstill in about 20ft (floatation tyres with bags of grip and hydraulic brakes on the trailer run off the tipping valve on the tractor), no instability at all as all the braking force was applied to the rear of the trailer....
Lakesailor
New member
Unfortunately the sheepdog was 19' 6" in front of the tractor when he braked.
ExcaliburII
New member
One trick others may find helpful is to save an old outer ring from each size of bearing and reduce the outer diameter a bit on a bench grinder so it's a loose fit in the hub. Use these when hammering the new bearings in as it helps to keep everything straight and reduces the risk of a drift damaging the new bearing when it slips. (You need to be aware it's not a good idea to hammer a case-hardened ring too hard with a case-hardened hammer, as bits can chip off. So the need for eye protection goes in the risk assessment. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
I always carry a full set of replacement bearings and seals, plus the necessary tools and a tub of grease when towing. Although I've only sufferered two roadside failures in over 40 years towing ( and the last of those was over 20 years ago /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) the hassle it causes if you haven't got the right bits with you makes it worth carrying a full set of spares IMHO.
I always carry a full set of replacement bearings and seals, plus the necessary tools and a tub of grease when towing. Although I've only sufferered two roadside failures in over 40 years towing ( and the last of those was over 20 years ago /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) the hassle it causes if you haven't got the right bits with you makes it worth carrying a full set of spares IMHO.
dpb
Well-known member
My version of this is to simply cut through the outer ring of an old bearing with a grinder blade, the 0.5mm gap allows it to be levered out easily having being used to drift the new one in.