Refueler
Well-known member
Which looking at your installation is based on an aftermarket higher rated alternator ? Nice - but not really relevant to the topic.
To run engine or not ?
- Thread starter SailingDog
- Start date
Which looking at your installation is based on an aftermarket higher rated alternator ? Nice - but not really relevant to the topic.
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
Any less relevant to the topic than your posts about ships, life boats, dynamos, dynastarts, your old 60's boats, your ignition light, etc etc ?
Refueler
Well-known member
Interesting to some though ... sorry if it doesn't conform to your 'library' .....
Robih
Well-known member
Directly relevant, the post discussed shredding belts and belt dust, all resolved by a serpentine kit.
Bouba
Well-known member
When you get your serpentine belt...make sure you turn the engine around so that you have full access to it
Robih
Well-known member
Don’t understand, in the image you’re looking at the front of the engine, if I turned it around it’d be impossible access (amongst other issues). Am I missing your point?
Bouba
Well-known member
I have a serpentine belt...but it is right up against a bulkhead...even just to inspect it is a major operation for me
Don’t understand, in the image you’re looking at the front of the engine, if I turned it around it’d be impossible access (amongst other issues). Am I missing your point?
Ps...not bulkhead, but the fuel tank
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PaulRainbow
Well-known member
Point is, Robih's serpentine belt is as relevant as your dynamo (actually more so). Most threads on here drift, i personally don't have a problem with that.
B27
Well-known member
That's not a serpentine belt, it's a polyvee belt.
Robih
Well-known member
Not according to the supplier: Serpentine Upgrade Kits - RJS Marine
Refueler
Well-known member
Thread is about running engine to charge batterys ...
Bouba
Well-known member
It’s about running engine for the hell of it
Refueler
Well-known member
Yes sorry - but still its about running engine ... the charge bit came in by others adding the matter ... which I picked up on.
PaulRainbow
Well-known member
Same thing.
Victorianna
New member
Cranking the engine to get the oil round first sounds like a good idea but (displaying my poor understanding of diesel engines here) how does one stop it from firing? On a petrol I'd remove the plug leads I guess but how does that work with compression ignition...
Plum
Well-known member
If it has not been started for a long time it will be a cold time of year which means it will need the glowplugs to make it fire. My glowplugs are activated by a separate push-switch to the crank button. (I gave up on the multi-position rotory key "ignition" type switch decades ago as not reliable). So I just crank until the oil light goes out, stop cranking and activate the glowplugs for 10 seconds, then crank and it instantly fires. Otherwise, you need to be able to activate the "stop" (fuel cuttoff) device while cranking (I have a third button for that)
Refueler
Well-known member
Both my Yanmar 2GM and the Perking 4-107 will start without Glowplugs in winter ... yeh I know - lucky me. If I was to do this cranking - I would need to pull out the stop and keep it out ... (neither of my engines have Oil Lights - yeh I know - silly me !).
There's something people have forgotten with this crank till oil light goes out ...
1. Close seacock before that cranking .. to avoid drawing in water and hydrolocking .....
2. If it takes a number of revolutions to draw and fire - especially when cold - oil is probably mostly round anyway ... admittedly not showing pressure.
I understand that engine while cranking will not have the concussive firing ... but you are still turning dry seals / bearings etc in those first turns ..
Yet to be convinced.
Plum
Well-known member
I am not going to try to convince you but regarding cranking with seacock shut: my watertrap has a more than adequate volume to cope with 10 seconds of cranking before firing so no risk for me to keep seacock open.
Refueler
Well-known member
That's fine ... but many people just have plain seacock to pipe to engine ....
Its a well known piece of advice about not cranking too long - to avoid water being pulled in ..
I'm just trying to imagine 10 seconds being enough to bring oil pressure up to extinguish the light ... mmmm
Plum
Well-known member
Yes, but I was refering to a watertrap after the injection bend.
