Refueler
Well-known member
Which looking at your installation is based on an aftermarket higher rated alternator ? Nice - but not really relevant to the topic.
Any less relevant to the topic than your posts about ships, life boats, dynamos, dynastarts, your old 60's boats, your ignition light, etc etc ?Which looking at your installation is based on an aftermarket higher rated alternator ? Nice - but not really relevant to the topic.
Any less relevant to the topic than your posts about ships, life boats, dynamos, dynastarts, your old 60's boats, your ignition light, etc etc ?
Directly relevant, the post discussed shredding belts and belt dust, all resolved by a serpentine kit.Which looking at your installation is based on an aftermarket higher rated alternator ? Nice - but not really relevant to the topic.
When you get your serpentine belt...make sure you turn the engine around so that you have full access to itDirectly relevant, the post discussed shredding belts and belt dust, all resolved by a serpentine kit.
When you get your serpentine belt...make sure you turn the engine around so that you have full access to it
I have a serpentine belt...but it is right up against a bulkhead...even just to inspect it is a major operation for me
Don’t understand, in the image you’re looking at the front of the engine, if I turned it around it’d be impossible access (amongst other issues). Am I missing your point?
Interesting to some though ... sorry if it doesn't conform to your 'library' .....
Not according to the supplier: Serpentine Upgrade Kits - RJS MarineThat's not a serpentine belt, it's a polyvee belt.
Directly relevant, the post discussed shredding belts and belt dust, all resolved by a serpentine kit.
It’s about running engine for the hell of itThread is about running engine to charge batterys ...
It’s about running engine for the hell of it
Same thing.That's not a serpentine belt, it's a polyvee belt.
Cranking the engine to get the oil round first sounds like a good idea but (displaying my poor understanding of diesel engines here) how does one stop it from firing? On a petrol I'd remove the plug leads I guess but how does that work with compression ignition...80% of the wear in the life of an internal combustion engine occurs during cold startups. (From my learning when studying IC engine design)
When you do want to start it after months of storage, assuming your battery is good and you can stop it from firing, crank intil the oil pressure light goes out (mine takes 8 to 10 seconds) then let it fire and warm it up thoroughly under load.
If it has not been started for a long time it will be a cold time of year which means it will need the glowplugs to make it fire. My glowplugs are activated by a separate push-switch to the crank button. (I gave up on the multi-position rotory key "ignition" type switch decades ago as not reliable). So I just crank until the oil light goes out, stop cranking and activate the glowplugs for 10 seconds, then crank and it instantly fires. Otherwise, you need to be able to activate the "stop" (fuel cuttoff) device while cranking (I have a third button for that)Cranking the engine to get the oil round first sounds like a good idea but (displaying my poor understanding of diesel engines here) how does one stop it from firing? On a petrol I'd remove the plug leads I guess but how does that work with compression ignition...
If it has not been started for a long time it will be a cold time of year which means it will need the glowplugs to make it fire. My glowplugs are activated by a separate push-switch to the crank button. (I gave up on the multi-position rotory key "ignition" type switch decades ago as not reliable). So I just crank until the oil light goes out, stop cranking and activate the glowplugs for 10 seconds, then crank and it instantly fires. Otherwise, you need to be able to activate the "stop" (fuel cuttoff) device while cranking (I have a third button for that)
I am not going to try to convince you but regarding cranking with seacock shut: my watertrap has a more than adequate volume to cope with 10 seconds of cranking before firing so no risk for me to keep seacock open.Both my Yanmar 2GM and the Perking 4-107 will start without Glowplugs in winter ... yeh I know - lucky me. If I was to do this cranking - I would need to pull out the stop and keep it out ... (neither of my engines have Oil Lights - yeh I know - silly me !).
There's something people have forgotten with this crank till oil light goes out ...
1. Close seacock before that cranking .. to avoid drawing in water and hydrolocking .....
2. If it takes a number of revolutions to draw and fire - especially when cold - oil is probably mostly round anyway ... admittedly not showing pressure.
I understand that engine while cranking will not have the concussive firing ... but you are still turning dry seals / bearings etc in those first turns ..
Yet to be convinced.
I am not going to try to convince you but regarding cranking with seacock shut: my watertrap has a more than adequate volume to cope with 10 seconds of cranking before firing so no risk for me to keep seacock open.
Yes, but I was refering to a watertrap after the injection bend.That's fine ... but many people just have plain seacock to pipe to engine ....