teak preperation

[gonfishing]

hi all
the interior woodwork around the windows in the salon are looking very shabby so i have rubbed them down to bare wood any suggestions as to the best way of re-sealing them, varnish?stain,? ideas much appreciated
julian

<hr width=100% size=1>Excuse me can you tell me where the nearest petrol station is ??????

 

[Tiger Rag]

If you stain the teak then thats it you can't go back. I would varnish, first a couple of thin coats that will soak in and seal the wood and then as many thicker top coats as you are prepared to apply to get a shiny finish.

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[tcm]

russel is correct imho. Staining them would be a one-way trip, and you should seal the wood.

I dunno if these are single strips, screwed down with cup washers? Praps. To varnish you need to seal the wood, at end grain especially. But with the bare wood, get the best finish you can by wiping the surface with a damp cloth to tuirn the grain and leave to dry. This is how rough it would be on first varnish coat, so rub that down. You might do this two or three times on the bare wood, to get a hard and almost shiny surface. Then varnish in a dustfree area and leave the room. Then sand down the next copat and so on. The deep shine is a result of 8 or more coats of varnish, but you could reattach after say two coats. For each coat mask off, sand with very fine paper (flour paper) and varnsih in the morning (not afternoon, dewpoints or summink risks the dreaded white bloom) of a warm sunny day.



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[hlb]

I would consider using Sikens. It's not high gloss but is good protection for the wood, does not go all white and flaky like varnish and is easy to recoat in the future.

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Haydn

 

[longjohnsilver]

TCM wot's flour paper? Never heard of it before, presume just very fine sand paper. Don't remember you mentioning this last time. Do you also recommend white spirit in varnish for the first few coats.

You seem to know about this, were you a french polisher or high class chippy in a previous life?

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[tcm]

for various reasons (Dad was mad on real diy, I worked on building sites, i somehow got involved with lots of sad mates making things etc etc) I have come across a reasonable amount of this sort of thing.

Yes, flour paper is very very fine sandpaper. Whatever the grade, for fine stuff rub it against itself a bit first, for obvious reasons known as "warming" it. Blimey, I can't shut up about it, sorry.

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[miket]

Is it solid teak or a veneered ply?
I would think the latter.

I would suggest a teak oil for the simplest application/ maintenance/ appearance.
Will give a mat finish and when looking tired just scrub or very light sand before further applications.

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[stuartw]

Sikkens CETOL HLS- without doubt!

I used Sikkens Cetol HLS last August on my bathing platform & boarding ladders, and to date , no black, no green and still retaing the colour- it is fantastic.
It is a very thin- penetrating product, containing algicides, UV stabilisers and stain. I used the Teak coloured version which really enriches the original colour without making it look to artificial.
I used two generous coats after removing all the green & black crap & letting it dry.
I personally would not consider anything else.


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[Blue_Blazes]

"Flour paper" is a very fine grade of white alumium oxide paper. I think it's called that because the wood dust from rubbing down with it is as fine as flour. You could use 180 grit or finer "Wet & Dry" paper instead, obviously used dry.

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