G
Guest
Guest
Can anyone tell me how I can free a stuck seacock. It has been closed for a good couple of years. The seacock is for the toilet outlet & the boat is in the water!
G
Guest
Guest
Pour some vegetable (cooking) oil down the pipe connected to the seacock....it sometimes works!
iangrant
New member
Put bung in hole, (probably not too far under the waterline), take off the old seacock and free up on a bench, or dry out the boat on piles etc.. It is unlikely that you can free it up in situ.
Ian
Ian
Twister_Ken
Well-known member
Whack it from the wet side
Dry out, or get the boat lifted for a few minutes.
Stick a drift up the outlet, and give it a few hefty taps with a Birmingham screwdriver.
Reputed to work, but I've never tried it myself
Dry out, or get the boat lifted for a few minutes.
Stick a drift up the outlet, and give it a few hefty taps with a Birmingham screwdriver.
Reputed to work, but I've never tried it myself
G
Guest
Guest
Re: Don\'t
Chech what sort of valve it is
If you whack at a ball valve youre likely to damage the case or ball and make the job much worse.
As previously said much better to remove the valve and sort it properly ashore. if you cant dry out or lift out a few water butts on deck may be an option to trim or heel the boat enough to get the seacock clear of the water line
Chech what sort of valve it is
If you whack at a ball valve youre likely to damage the case or ball and make the job much worse.
As previously said much better to remove the valve and sort it properly ashore. if you cant dry out or lift out a few water butts on deck may be an option to trim or heel the boat enough to get the seacock clear of the water line
G
Guest
Guest
Leave the boat in the water and apply gentle heat from a plumbers blowlamp around the ball, be gentle and try to ease slowly, if this does not work then bite the bullet and replace, i have used this method many times with a 40% succes rate.Or remove and give hell in a vice, nothing ventured ETC.
Good Luck Ken
Good Luck Ken
G
Guest
Guest
Re: Don\'t
Many thanks for the replies. I think I'll cross my legs until I can get the boat out of the water.
Many thanks for the replies. I think I'll cross my legs until I can get the boat out of the water.
G
Guest
Guest
It can be done
hi,
it is quite possible to replace seadocks in the water and i have donr it many times. first off all you need to find out the size of the sea cock! if it is a toilet outlet the chances are it will be 1 1/2 bsp. Undo the hose clips on the pipe (if they are rusted on you will need a 7 or 8 mm spanner depending on the make) measure the size of the hose tail this will tell you the size you need. Genrally seacocks are made of 6 components all screwed and sealled together. The Skin fitting pad and nut, mostly bzp (brass looking)these form a sandwich with the hull. next a back nut this will lock the valve in place) then the valve nowdays (Gate valves have been outlawed by the regulations) 'Ball valves' are used and finaly your hose tail (this can be Bent or streight). you will need to get a replace ment ball valve of the correct size (generally a 1 1/2 one is between £10 and £20. if the hose tail is bent it would be wise to get a new one of these too. If you have a bent hose tail asseble the two components so that the tail stops in the right place, add a little sealent on the male part of the threads( a bathroom sealent will do, or you can use plumbers Boss white; the earlyer will make the job easyer) if you cannot get the tail to stop in the right placeeither chance the haddle over to try the other side or tou will have to file the top of the Ball vale untill all lines up.
MAKE SURE THE NEW SEACOCK IS CLOSED!! AND YOUR BILGE PUMP IS ON!!
Remove the old seacock(turning anti clockwise) you will need 2 prety hefty adjustables or similar to remove the valve one for the valve body and one for the back nut. once removed smear a libberal amout of sealent onto the male thread and put the new seacock on and screw up You will have quite a large influx of water about 1 gallon every 5 seconds.
once on and tight srew up the back nut to lock the all the components together. if you had a strieght hose tail you can now remove it from the old seacock and fit in into the new one, again using sealent. then attatch the pipes and tighten the hose clips.
if you have problems removing of fitting the pipe poos hot water onto the pipe to softern it
check the state of the hose clips and replace as nessasarry!!!
Then wonder what all the fuss was about!!!!!
Marcus
hi,
it is quite possible to replace seadocks in the water and i have donr it many times. first off all you need to find out the size of the sea cock! if it is a toilet outlet the chances are it will be 1 1/2 bsp. Undo the hose clips on the pipe (if they are rusted on you will need a 7 or 8 mm spanner depending on the make) measure the size of the hose tail this will tell you the size you need. Genrally seacocks are made of 6 components all screwed and sealled together. The Skin fitting pad and nut, mostly bzp (brass looking)these form a sandwich with the hull. next a back nut this will lock the valve in place) then the valve nowdays (Gate valves have been outlawed by the regulations) 'Ball valves' are used and finaly your hose tail (this can be Bent or streight). you will need to get a replace ment ball valve of the correct size (generally a 1 1/2 one is between £10 and £20. if the hose tail is bent it would be wise to get a new one of these too. If you have a bent hose tail asseble the two components so that the tail stops in the right place, add a little sealent on the male part of the threads( a bathroom sealent will do, or you can use plumbers Boss white; the earlyer will make the job easyer) if you cannot get the tail to stop in the right placeeither chance the haddle over to try the other side or tou will have to file the top of the Ball vale untill all lines up.
MAKE SURE THE NEW SEACOCK IS CLOSED!! AND YOUR BILGE PUMP IS ON!!
Remove the old seacock(turning anti clockwise) you will need 2 prety hefty adjustables or similar to remove the valve one for the valve body and one for the back nut. once removed smear a libberal amout of sealent onto the male thread and put the new seacock on and screw up You will have quite a large influx of water about 1 gallon every 5 seconds.
once on and tight srew up the back nut to lock the all the components together. if you had a strieght hose tail you can now remove it from the old seacock and fit in into the new one, again using sealent. then attatch the pipes and tighten the hose clips.
if you have problems removing of fitting the pipe poos hot water onto the pipe to softern it
check the state of the hose clips and replace as nessasarry!!!
Then wonder what all the fuss was about!!!!!
Marcus
iangrant
New member
Re: It can be done
Stick a bung on the outside first - then there is no flood!!
Good luck
Stick a bung on the outside first - then there is no flood!!
Good luck
G
Guest
Guest
A genius!
But make sure you bung it in the right hole...
But make sure you bung it in the right hole...
G
Guest
Guest
Re: A genius!
MAKE SURE ANY BUNG YOU USE IS SOFT WOOD and not painted / varnished / stained etc. It MUST be plain soft wood.
Hard wood bungs will not swell and take up any slack !
I would suggest that you 'Bung' the outer hole, allow to swell and seal of the outlet.... allow a few tides to go through before ..... maybe 24 hrs.
THEN try the remove old and fit new .........
MAKE SURE ANY BUNG YOU USE IS SOFT WOOD and not painted / varnished / stained etc. It MUST be plain soft wood.
Hard wood bungs will not swell and take up any slack !
I would suggest that you 'Bung' the outer hole, allow to swell and seal of the outlet.... allow a few tides to go through before ..... maybe 24 hrs.
THEN try the remove old and fit new .........
G
Guest
Guest
ok in theory
I like the idea of diving in the water and putting a bung in the correct skin fitting and then getting out and changing the saecock then diving back in and removing the plug again but this just seems like a lot of hastle. i have changed numorous seacocks on boats and have never got wet!!! i recon' i can do it with out spilling more than a couple of litres of water from a 1 1/2 seacock.
your idea is a good one but not always fesable on bigger boats where the skinfittings are near the keel and about 4' down.
I like the idea of diving in the water and putting a bung in the correct skin fitting and then getting out and changing the saecock then diving back in and removing the plug again but this just seems like a lot of hastle. i have changed numorous seacocks on boats and have never got wet!!! i recon' i can do it with out spilling more than a couple of litres of water from a 1 1/2 seacock.
your idea is a good one but not always fesable on bigger boats where the skinfittings are near the keel and about 4' down.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: ok in theory
Gents,
thanks very much for the suggestions.
Gents,
thanks very much for the suggestions.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: ok in theory
Newcomer, I have just replaced the outlet cock on my boat, which has been on since new (30 Years), it was a tapered valve, as suggested dry boat out on beach slip or other, heat inside fitting for a while with blow lamp and have somebody wack the inside with a strong metal bar. The wacking is done from outside but inside the outlet hole.
Out it should pop as mine did, ready for cleaning and greasing and replacing, this only applies to the taper valve!! see threads for Mor righ of some months ago.
Good luck.
Newcomer, I have just replaced the outlet cock on my boat, which has been on since new (30 Years), it was a tapered valve, as suggested dry boat out on beach slip or other, heat inside fitting for a while with blow lamp and have somebody wack the inside with a strong metal bar. The wacking is done from outside but inside the outlet hole.
Out it should pop as mine did, ready for cleaning and greasing and replacing, this only applies to the taper valve!! see threads for Mor righ of some months ago.
Good luck.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: ok in theory
Morrigh,
Thanks. Unfortunately my boat is a fin keel job so I won't be drying it out just yet but I hope to put your advice to good use later on.
Morrigh,
Thanks. Unfortunately my boat is a fin keel job so I won't be drying it out just yet but I hope to put your advice to good use later on.
G
Guest
Guest
Re: ok in theory
Newcomer, if you look into all of the threads that I have have posted you will see an explanation of what was done to remove the valve, follow John T advice of keeping it well greased and move it regularly good luck.!! Mor righ
Newcomer, if you look into all of the threads that I have have posted you will see an explanation of what was done to remove the valve, follow John T advice of keeping it well greased and move it regularly good luck.!! Mor righ
G
Guest
Guest
Try
liberal amounts of WD40 or liquid wrench gently tapping with a hammer between applications in tandem some warm vegetable oil flushed through the seacock. After a few applications apply leverage with more WD40 - if a lever type gently tap with a hammer then sleve the lever with a plug spanner and a large screwdriver and work it as it eases. if a wheel type then a pair of mole grips really tight on plus gentle tapping. Heat from a hair dryer will also help.
Pete
liberal amounts of WD40 or liquid wrench gently tapping with a hammer between applications in tandem some warm vegetable oil flushed through the seacock. After a few applications apply leverage with more WD40 - if a lever type gently tap with a hammer then sleve the lever with a plug spanner and a large screwdriver and work it as it eases. if a wheel type then a pair of mole grips really tight on plus gentle tapping. Heat from a hair dryer will also help.
Pete