Splits in stem, what to do?

[jerrytug]

Hello, I had thought these were anchor scratches, but I removed the paint and found they are splits, 15mm deep in the middle.
No softness or rot, the timber is rock-hard. The shine is me slapping on some varnish, yesterday, to keep the rain out

It's Norwegian Oak, at least 150 yrs old.

The bobstay fitting is through bolted, and I doubt the splits are caused by bobstay tension, although maybe they are.

There is no chance of any professional remedy, I'm off to sea in a few weeks, and I would rather keep what I have. (they don' t make em like that no more, etc).

What should I fill the cracks with? They need filling to keep the sea out of the wood.

I am thinking, something old fashioned like putty, which will squeeze out when she takes up, rather than hard modern materials like epoxy with no " give".

I'm a little concerned what do you think, cheers Jerry

 

[NormanS]

Presumably the bobstay fitting is bolted right through the stem (and apron), in which case it's not going to fall apart. Has the boat been out of the water for a while? I have used tallow in rents like that. As you say, it'll squeeze out, as the oak swells again. Nothing to worry about.

 

[jerrytug]

Presumably the bobstay fitting is bolted right through the stem (and apron), in which case it's not going to fall apart. Has the boat been out of the water for a while? I have used tallow in rents like that. As you say, it'll squeeze out, as the oak swells again. Nothing to worry about.

Thanks Norman, Yes the fitting is through bolted. Yes, out of the water for a while. Thanks for the reassurance!

 

[jerrytug]

What sort of putty would stop the sea soaking in to the crack, yet be soft enough to squeeze out when the stem takes up? Maybe linseed oil pitty with extra oil?

 

[Poecheng]

Hi Jerry,
Oak dries out out incredibly and is slow to take up.
Doesn't look too bad to me though and is age.
Red lead putty will do the job though I would try and get in some good metalic primer first as far as possible (maybe spray because those will be deep)
I recall reading in the mags that coating dried wood with antifreeze has the effect of attracting water (hydrophilic ??) and making them take up - they were using this in museum boats. It would take a while and not merely days.

Good luck

A

 

[sarabande]

The splits look a bit like compression fractures where the cells are squashed and then the split runs along the grain for a bit.

I can't see anything really damaging arising from the splits, and I'd be tempted to clean them out, and then use oakum, tallow and white lead; in effect paying the splits as you might do for a planking seam.

 

[NormanS]

What sort of putty would stop the sea soaking in to the crack, yet be soft enough to squeeze out when the stem takes up? Maybe linseed oil pitty with extra oil?

Yes, soft putty would do. As I said, I've used tallow in the past. I'm not sure how available it is now, but something like dripping would do. Fry up some bacon for a sarnie, eat the sarnie, and scrape the fat out of the frying pan. Job done. Don't lose sleep over it.

 

[jerrytug]

Thanks gents for the helpful advice, I will get some primer right in the cracks, and fill them with some squishy trad putty, then a few coats of primer over all.
You can still get tallow on ebay, I wonder what else people use it for!

 

[Keith 66]

I would not use putty as it wil dry out & go hard, you need soft stuff, Evomastic is great for jobs like this, cheap & oil based & does not dry out. Or beeswax & tallow mix.

 

[jerrytug]

Update, I warmed up the area with a hair drier to Med temps. Then I force-squirted warmed, thinned Primocon from a vet's syringe in to the cracks, most of the 50ml syringe stayed in there, so the job is signed off as properly primed.

Linseed oil putty, further softened with raw linseed oil, is next when it stops raining, thanks for advice Jerry

Edited to add, goodbye polyester resin and epoxy for ever, wood boat chemicals are: 1. Harmless 2.Cheap 3.Proven 4. Link with Nelson.

happy days Jerry

 

[2nd_apprentice]

I've always used common wine barrel sealer:

http://www.eckraus.com/barrel-sealer.html

P.S.: every traditional cooper should have some.

 

[jerrytug]

I've always used common wine barrel sealer:

http://www.eckraus.com/barrel-sealer.html

Thanks 2nd App very interesting. By the way I have now bought a boat to put that Taylor's cooker in at last

 

[2nd_apprentice]

Thanks 2nd App very interesting. By the way I have now bought a boat to put that Taylor's cooker in at last

Sounds like a nice traditional boat, love it!
While sorting out the mess in one of the sheds where I store things I saw two brackets that looked like they're supposed to go with the Taylor's. At least I think they are, never used the gimbal contraption myself. Let me know if you want them, free to a good home/boat (if you're not in a hurry).

 

[andygc]

Linseed oil putty, further softened with raw linseed oil,

The boatwright who guided me through a rebuild taught me to add grease to the mix to keep it soft. Linseed oil putty dries out over time.

 

[jerrytug]

Sounds like a nice traditional boat, love it!
While sorting out the mess in one of the sheds where I store things I saw two brackets that looked like they're supposed to go with the Taylor's. At least I think they are, never used the gimbal contraption myself. Let me know if you want them, free to a good home/boat (if you're not in a hurry).

Yes please, no mad hurry. She had a Taylors before and there is no gas locker, I will be removing the shiny gas cooker and selling it here in the next couple of weeks, before I can install the Talylors anyway, thanks Jerry
PM me how much for the p'n'p.

 

[2nd_apprentice]

Will do. It's going to take a month or two though, better hang on to that gas cooker if you don't want to serve cold beans
As I said they looked like Taylor's gimbal brackets, haven't been able to confirm it via Google image search. I'll just send you a picture when I find them again.
That's a damn fine looking vessle btw. Do you know her history etc.?

 

[jerrytug]

I know a bit, designed 1950 by William Atkin of Connecticut, for a couple to circumnavigate, which they did in the first example Vixen. Design based on Colin Archer Edwardian era lifeboats. 12 tons displacement 32' LWL.

At least two others in the USA, mine's the only one in Europe, built ( like a tank) in Risor in Norway in 1957, pitch pine on oak.
I am planning to take her back to Risor this summer for a wood boat festival, already got my berth.

She's in good nick, no soft patches or rot, just recommisioning really, going back in the water soon.

She won't win any speed records, but should have a nice motion, weighing as much as a double decker bus..

If anyone wants to do any crewing N.Sea, Baltic, Norway, and back, give me a shout, Jerry

 

[jerrytug]

The boatwright who guided me through a rebuild taught me to add grease to the mix to keep it soft. Linseed oil putty dries out over time.

Thanks for the tip, grease going in the mix, I can't let the putty go hard, or when the stem swells up it will properly split itself open. So far it is putty, linseed oil, bacon fat, tallow and grease

 

[tillergirl]

I'd be using white lead with the linseed and putty.

 

[jerrytug]

I'd be using white lead with the linseed and putty.

Thanks TG, does the lead stop it hardening? This is developing into quite a cocktail of ingredients!