Sound of Islay - what's it like normally?

[DaveParry]

I went through for the first time, South to North, on a fair tide last weekend, when there was a stiff Easterly blowing. I'd read the pilot that said in a northerly wind over tide it could be dangerous to small vessels. I wasn't sure whether 26' was 'small' but nosed in to see given that with Jura's massive bulk to the East I was sure we'd be sheltered from the Easterly.

But no. The wind was bending round the Paps so ended up very northerly, and the sea went from flat calm/no wind to F6 with short breaking box waves in no time. Yikes. Got through alive by hugging the Islay shore, with the conclusion that 26' is 'borderline' small.

I was wondering, as I'm back next month, can anyone expand on the pilot's advice? Is any wind from W to E through North dodgy when wind over tide? What's it like in a Southerly?

Ironically, after a break in Loch Tarbert for tea, we then sailed through the night to the Gulf of Corryvreckan and went through on the flood>ebb slack at 3:30am with a gentler NW F3 with no incident at all in a glorious 'just pre-dawn' eery glow. That had been the passage I was more anxious about beforehand. Magical.

Any more experienced local knowledge would be most welcome. Thanks.

 

[Shuggy]

Coming through west to east (north to south) with the tide. Wind picked up strongly from the east. The standing waves off McArthur point were the scariest thing I have ever encountered in a boat. 13 ton motor sailer went completely under water in a vertical dive, with the prop coming out of the water on the way down. Lost the nav lights from the wheelhouse roof, smashed the outboard on the pushpit, opened up the planks and saw us taking on serious water. We motored over to Gigha and anchored in shallow water so we could beach her. Awful experience. Immediately put her on the market and bought a GRP boat! I've heard similar tales from others.

I've been through a few times since with no hint of its occasional ferocity though.

 

[machurley22]

I can't directly answer your questions since I've only been through a few times, always W-E and in relatively benign conditions albeit in a smaller boat than yours.

However, much of the "sound" sailing in the area involves strong tides through narrow sounds with uneven bottoms and fluky winds and with the wrong fluky wind in the mix it can get very lively. It's all about picking your moment as carefully as possible and when you get it right as you did that night even the fearsome Corryvreckan is a pussycat.

 

[A1Sailor]

I have no expert knowledge about the Sound of Islay, but significant wind against tide anywhere is likely to be unpleasant. The problem, of course, is that if the tide is 5-6 knots or more you are kind of commited!

Good luck...

 

[claymore]

If there is wind it always funnels through.
The tide is always considerable once it gets going. Like anywhere, you just need to weigh it up when you are there - it doesnt last for long. Noting the obvious - if it is windy and you have to go then time it for slacker water if possible.
Your experience is unusual as most people would report a more torrid passage of Corryvreckan

 

[Searush]

You could have tied up against the jetty I stood on to take this piccy for a short tour until the tide slackened.

 

[DaveParry]

Tempting

This was a very real possibility. I got in to Bunnahabhain Bay thinking of anchoring, didn't think of going up against the jetty though. When in there it looked like I could go up the coast out of the worst of it, which proved to be okay.

It wasn't quite as bad as Shuggy's experience though by the sounds of it. We saw the anchor locker disappear a few times, but our little Oyster bobbed like a cork otherwise.

Why do people have bother in the Corryvreckan if it's slack? Is it because it's hard to judge the timing? Or are they approaching through the Great Race? We came up the West Coast of Jura and had one of those great night sails with red and green spray coming off the bow in a gentle swell.

 

[A1Sailor]

This was a very real possibility. I got in to Bunnahabhain Bay thinking of anchoring, didn't think of going up against the jetty though. When in there it looked like I could go up the coast out of the worst of it, which proved to be okay.

I've spent the night at anchor in Bunnahabain Bay, in settled conditions out of the tide. The soft aroma of whisky was most pleasant! We anchored south of the pier, just off the left of the picture below.

 

[DaveParry]

The route in Google Maps

I thought you might like to see the route we tool in Google Maps. Not sure if this will work, so let me know.

The first time we set off from the Islay shore at MacArthur's Head, we were still going through the worst of it, so tacked again and had another go a bit further North and this seemed to miss the worst of it.

http://goo.gl/maps/LYtv

 

[Shuggy]

It would have been fine if we had been in a different boat! Same day, same conditions, but in the boat we have now (43 ft plastic RORC design) no probs. When you start wondering whether the significant water ingress is due to a sprung plank it doesn't half heighten the senses. My wife was shouting, 'get me off this boat' and the three children were screaming (aged 4-6). The friends we were sailing in convoy with, in a modern 37 footer, were absolutely fine. They very kindly came over to Gigha and administered sparkling wine for medicinal purposes. Troubles soon forgottenish. The main worry was that there was water over the cabin sole and the electric bilge pump couldn't keep up. I still remember trying to sound utterly casual as we radiod them to say that we thought we might have a slight change of plan and find a nice beach to anchor on! Deep down I was running through the life raft drill... Still, all good for the character. And making new nav light holders from the comfort of home a week later was quite therapeutic.

When I was wondering whether we had a sprung plank I was running through the survey in my head - 'recommend drawing some of the galvanised dumps (fastenings) and doubling up where necessary'. Oops. Never quite got round to it!

The beauty of the wheelhouse was that the green colour of the water through every window as we submerged bow first was quite pretty...

 

[Shuggy]

I thought you might like to see the route we tool in Google Maps. Not sure if this will work, so let me know.

The first time we set off from the Islay shore at MacArthur's Head, we were still going through the worst of it, so tacked again and had another go a bit further North and this seemed to miss the worst of it.

http://goo.gl/maps/LYtv

I think McArthur's Head is the lighthouse at the southern end, but I see what you mean.

 

[A1Sailor]

I thought you might like to see the route we tool in Google Maps. Not sure if this will work, so let me know.

The first time we set off from the Islay shore at MacArthur's Head, we were still going through the worst of it, so tacked again and had another go a bit further North and this seemed to miss the worst of it.

http://goo.gl/maps/LYtv

I might have chickened out and anchored between the two islets off the south coast of Jura!
Disappointed you didn't go up to the head of Loch Tarbert. I have...and got away with it!!!

picture taken looking south from the middle of the "West-East" part of the track.

image taken looking west just before turning north.

taken at anchor where the red dot is. We went up to the pool at the top, then returned to anchor. Lots of rocks appeared at low water...

 

[DaveParry]

Shuggy's submarine

Shuggy - you have a very tolerant family (If they've ventured out with you on your new boat that is!). I think if my wife and three young kids had been with me it would have been the end of family sailing.

As it was, with a few mates from home, they all seemed to think it was quite good fun. I only saw the upside once I'd got them all somewhere safer. Oh the burden of the skipper.

I think next time, I'll do the same as Searush and A1Sailor and book the distillery tour waiting for slack. There are worse places to wait for the tide...

 

[A1Sailor]

I think next time, I'll do the same as Searush and A1Sailor and book the distillery tour waiting for slack. There are worse places to wait for the tide...

... but not in a northerly F6!!! Bunawhatsit Bay would not have been tenable...

 

[DaveParry]

I think McArthur's Head is the lighthouse at the southern end, but I see what you mean.

Sorry Shuggy - meant to say Rubha A'Mhail Lighthouse - NE of Islay.

 

[DaveS]

A few years ago I had a bit of a battering heading north up the Sound of Islay with the tide and against the wind. I eventually hove to and just let the tide carry me through. Much less bouncy.

 

[uxb]

I've once been through when it was a bit breezy but wouldn't try it wind against tide -unless it was a very light wind. No drama normally in my chicken sailor mode...

I did get a good scare in the Dorus Mor on a wild day -wind with tide - when I stood the boat on her stern then fell off the back of the steepest wave I've ever sailed into. The crash when the boat landed pretty flat on the other side was impressive but resulted in no damage outside the crockery locker. The wave just appeared under the bow...

 

[A1Sailor]

I've once been through when it was a bit breezy but wouldn't try it wind against tide -unless it was a very light wind. No drama normally in my chicken sailor mode...

I did get a good scare in the Dorus Mor on a wild day -wind with tide - when I stood the boat on her stern then fell off the back of the steepest wave I've ever sailed into. The crash when the boat landed pretty flat on the other side was impressive but resulted in no damage outside the crockery locker. The wave just appeared under the bow...

An issue, of course, is that the Sound of Islay is ~10 miles long. Once sucked in, you are there until you get spat out the other end! Best, imho, to arrive just before the turn of the tide; so that you can assess the wind conditions and decide whether or not to proceed. There are lots of very similar places on the West Coast of Scotland - which makes it such an enjoyable and rewarding cruising area.

The Dorus Mor - on a calm day...

The incoming tide sweeps up the Sound of Jura to a dead end in Loch Craignish and is forced out here towards the Firth of Lorn
© Copyright Tom Richardson http://www.geograph.org.uk/profile/26074 and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence - http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0/

 

[awol]

Did I ever mention the 6m high waterspouts that I encountered off the Mull of Kintyre?

Came through the Sound of Islay last year with tide and wind and got a severe battering at the south end - you know, the bit with the little waves on the chart.

 

[snooks]

Got through alive by hugging the Islay shore, with the conclusion that 26' is 'borderline' small.

I've always considered the "small" boat reference in pilot book is anything less than a ship

(Or 60 ft at least)

The pilot books in that area do a good job of building up the reputations of all these areas, but in fine weather the sailing can be very pleasant.