Skin Fittings - the reality for a seacock virgin

[PilotWolf]

Not going to go into details of location or boat for obvious reasons but I did a delivery of an old boat to yard for a complete overhaul and refit and then returned It to original location.

Prior to leaving the yard I obviously went through the boat checking things and I would say probably 50% of fittings, hose clamps and various other things were completely inaccessible behind new panelling and fittings, or below the deck.

This was a locally well known and respected yard I’ve done the work. I insisted on some changes before we left as if something had gone wrong we would’ve been stuffed.

W

 

[Tzu]

I bought my boat that had been marina bound for a few years and had the yard lift and pressure wash the hull before I applied some antifoul. The engine intake had its external parts washed away in the process!

 

[Graham_Wright]

My starboard engine sea valve is right behind the engine and a flat spanner is impossible to use. Equally, a socket is not ;one enough to fit over the hose spigot.
I made a box spanner with a long tube extension and a cross hole for a Tommy bar. It made an impossible job fairly straightforward.

(To make the box spanner, I turned a piece of round bar to the across points diameter and tapered it followed by angle grinding to produce the flats. Then pressed it into the end of the tube. I have access to a couple of presses but I guess a large hammer would do the trick).

 

[RJJ]

Regarding angle grinder - I used one to remove 12 fittings earlier this year. On the first one, I tried to make an acute angle close to the hull to "decapitate" the mushroom shape of the skin fitting. This was impossible (I found) without damaging the gelcoat which left me with extra minor repair work. Subsequently I just deployed the cutting blade perpendicular to the hull; dead easy and not a scratch. That's what the pros do at the yard, and if I'd been clever enough to ask....

Dry-fitting - absolutely. How annoying.

"Plastic" skin -fittings. Yes, don't rely on PVC ones as you might have above the waterline. But TruDesign or Marelon are made of the same thing as your boat. I have no concern about them going brittle or whatever.

 

[garvellachs]

I endorse that mention of using a grinding disc perpendicular to the hull. The metal of the thru-hull seems to be soft and disappears easily at the touch of the grinding wheel. One grinds a dish shape into the end of the thru-hull until the flange falls off the threaded part, looking as someone mentioned for a hairline crack to appear right round. No need to touch the hull (the sealant is in between) with the grinder. Quicker than the time to type this. One isn't cutting as much as eroding it. A video of it being done would be useful? Cheap, quick, damage-free, no need for extra tools, wooden bungs, sexy drills or anything else.

 

[TSB240]

Thanks to this thread I am no longer a cock removal virgin?.

I used a 25mm hole saw to make a wooden plug for a 1inch bsp skin fitting. The 30mm hole saw took out all of the very solid brass of the flange and left the cock connected by a very short length of 1inch BSP thread as the cutter with minimal run out was slightly smaller than the root dia. A tap with a chisel saw the flange easily removed.

Now the problem
No idea if the skin fitting was brass or bronze but it has absolutely no sign of zinc loss!

Do I replace the non DZR plated brass ball valve "MEGA" Brand as fitted by Hanse 20 years ago with a the same at £11.00 ??

All advice welcome.

 

[RJJ]

Thanks to this thread I am no longer a cock removal virgin?.

I used a 25mm hole saw to make a wooden plug for a 1inch bsp skin fitting. The 30mm hole saw took out all of the very solid brass of the flange and left the cock connected by a very short length of 1inch BSP thread as the cutter with minimal run out was slightly smaller than the root dia. A tap with a chisel saw the flange easily removed.

Now the problem
No idea if the skin fitting was brass or bronze but it has absolutely no sign of zinc loss!

Do I replace the non DZR plated brass ball valve "MEGA" Brand as fitted by Hanse 20 years ago with a the same at £11.00 ??

All advice welcome.

If at 20 years old it still looks yellow, I would imagine it was DZR or bronze in the first place. That's based on the gear I removed last year, 14 years old. every skin fitting was pink inside and one of the ball valves could punch straight through with a blunt chisel.

I would go Trudesign if there's space; otherwise DZR. I wouldn't do anything with brass.