Self install of LifePo4 and what requirements for insurance (UK)

It has morphed into a combined anchor/lithium battery thread. Now that's an explosive combination.
Ha, ha.

It is highly relevant, however, to the original topic, because it's a deep dive into how critical the reliability of electrical power supply is.
 
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At one time, you are correct. But over the course of the whole anchor-lifting operation, all 400kg will have to be raised, if all of the chain was out. The problem is not only peak load (so kgf, or kW), but also total work (kWH). Without electrical power (and the electric winches would be down as well as the windlass), that's quite a job.
Yess but 400kg of anchor and chain on deck is not 400kg in the water...so you would only have to lift your 400kg from the water to the deck .....
 
On my old boat I had 82m of 10mm chain plus a 25kg anchor... that adds up to about 213kg. I spent two years living aboard full time, mostly at anchor, without an electric windlass.
If had to anchor in 25m once, and it took an hour to manually crank the whole lot back aboard. That finally persuaded me to fit the electric windlass. I'd been carrying it in a locker for the whole time...
 
In a dire situation where both lithium batteries are offline, I could run the vessel from the 24v lead bank. I have not planned a changeover switch -- Paul, do you think I should? I can switch the house loads to the lead bank by disconnecting both lithium batteries with the contactors (controls at the nav table) and by engaging a manual interconnect switch at the lead bank battery box. This seems OK to me.
My setup is currently the same as yours. I can isolate either the engine batteries or the domestic bank by using key switches in the main control panel, with an emergency parallel switch in the battery compartment. It does work, but i'd prefer to be able to remotely parallel the circuits (i parallel the load side of the isolators, not the battery side).

I also have the issue of being able to start the engines if the engine batteries are flat, being 7 litre truck engines means the BMS won't allow me to start them from the LFP bank, so i'm going to try fitting a BMS bypass relay and see how that works, need to double check how many amps the engines pull when starting.
 
My setup is currently the same as yours. I can isolate either the engine batteries or the domestic bank by using key switches in the main control panel, with an emergency parallel switch in the battery compartment. It does work, but i'd prefer to be able to remotely parallel the circuits (i parallel the load side of the isolators, not the battery side).

I also have the issue of being able to start the engines if the engine batteries are flat, being 7 litre truck engines means the BMS won't allow me to start them from the LFP bank, so i'm going to try fitting a BMS bypass relay and see how that works, need to double check how many amps the engines pull when starting.
Is it worth carrying a lithium start booster for such a case?

My main is a Yanmar 4JH3 HTE which is extremely easy to start and needs only one 12v battery for starting. The generator start battery is separate, and these two back each other up. YMMV.
 
Is it worth carrying a lithium start booster for such a case?

My main is a Yanmar 4JH3 HTE which is extremely easy to start and needs only one 12v battery for starting. The generator start battery is separate, and these two back each other up. YMMV.
Should be OK for your engine, you may even find it will start from LFP. Would be an expensive option for me, my engines are big and are usually started by a pair of 12V batteries in series, as they are 24V.
 
On my old boat I had 82m of 10mm chain plus a 25kg anchor... that adds up to about 213kg. I spent two years living aboard full time, mostly at anchor, without an electric windlass.
If had to anchor in 25m once, and it took an hour to manually crank the whole lot back aboard. That finally persuaded me to fit the electric windlass. I'd been carrying it in a locker for the whole time...
I've always found that hand cranking or running a line to a winch made it far too difficult. On our 40 footer, when the windlass isn't operating, just sitting braced against the anchor locker and pulling hand over hand is far more efficient. Even in 30 knots+ you can haul it back in.
 
I've always found that hand cranking or running a line to a winch made it far too difficult. On our 40 footer, when the windlass isn't operating, just sitting braced against the anchor locker and pulling hand over hand is far more efficient. Even in 30 knots+ you can haul it back in.
And if you motor forwards at tickover revs it takes the strain off the anchor rode.
 
Should be OK for your engine, you may even find it will start from LFP. Would be an expensive option for me, my engines are big and are usually started by a pair of 12V batteries in series, as they are 24V.
I'm not worried about it for my boat; I was thinking about yours. You have much larger engines needing much more power, than mine.

In my case, I have two separate 12v start batteries (large truck starter batteries about twice the required size), one each for main and genset. One 2000cc and one 1000cc diesel engine, very easy to start. Each with its own completely separate alternator, charger, etc. These two batteries are backups to each other.

And if somehow both of those failed, I've got 4x Trojan T105's for my thruster, windlass, etc. I could pull two of those out, connect in series, and start either engine with ease.

So I just don't worry about this. I was thinking about your case.
 
I've always found that hand cranking or running a line to a winch made it far too difficult. On our 40 footer, when the windlass isn't operating, just sitting braced against the anchor locker and pulling hand over hand is far more efficient. Even in 30 knots+ you can haul it back in.
Over the years we've had to lift manually more often than not. Firstly because we only had a manual windlass, latterly because the stripper arm broke on the electric one.
Lifting hand over hand is fine if we're anchored in less than about 20ft of water. Probably no slower than using the electric windlass. Any more than that starts to feel like a chore.

Trying to vaguely get this back on topic, it's worth remembering that not all windlasses have a useable manual option. And, like with my stripper arm failure, not all windlass problems are caused by a lack of electricity.

Always have a plan B, and preferably C as well.
 
Already well chewed over on Scuttlebutt
There were certainly a lot of conspiracy theories. I’ve yet to see a single piece of information aside from a boat caught fire, seemingly in the galley area and a fireman making a guess which was quoted.
It’s generated a lot of views for the video though, which I imagine is the point. Facts are irrelevant when profit can be made.
 
There were certainly a lot of conspiracy theories. I’ve yet to see a single piece of information aside from a boat caught fire, seemingly in the galley area and a fireman making a guess which was quoted.
It’s generated a lot of views for the video though, which I imagine is the point. Facts are irrelevant when profit can be made.
And exactly what facts do you know as to the cause of fire?
Don't spose you could be guessing aswell
 
And exactly what facts do you know as to the cause of fire?
Don't spose you could be guessing aswell
My point precisely, there are no facts to know. Lots of folk suggesting they know it was the batteries though. I won’t say what I think of those folk again, I was removed from the other thread for calling out their BS.
 
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