Seacock handle broke

jfm

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I may end up changing the lot..but I’m going to start by trying to just change the offending piece
As you wish, but jeeze you don't half mess about and go the long way round. A proper job is to just change the whole lot both sides and and change those awful cheap non fire-resistant hoses too. You seem to have no desire to do a proper job, compared with many on here who do, hence all these "polar opposite" posts. But it's your boat, so you're the boss and you are free to decide :)
 

Bouba

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As you wish, but jeeze you don't half mess about and go the long way round. A proper job is to just change the whole lot both sides and and change those awful cheap non fire-resistant hoses too. You seem to have no desire to do a proper job, compared with many on here who do, hence all these "polar opposite" posts. But it's your boat, so you're the boss and you are free to decide :)
I don’t think your criticism is fair...I got the first available slot to get the boat towed and lifted...I got a part (which I hope fits) I even manufactured custom made tools for the job...I haven’t wasted a moment while waiting for the lift out. We even made contact with a professional who might be able to help (this is their busiest time)....I will make the first attempt to do the job myself....believe me I will not go to sea if it’s leaking....but if the thru hull is in good condition and the seal isn’t broken after I remove the seacock... I really cannot see your point.
 

Portofino

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The metals ought to be the same material and age .
The issue not changing the TTHF as well , to my mind is because the old skin fitting been in the sea for a few yrs , it will have corroded somewhat , leached out constituents .
When you only replace in this case the broken valve the three components, that’s the old skin , valve and hose tail will be electrochemically very dissimilar…..the two older will act as anodes .
Any corrosion they have already will accelerate.

Your fractured valve was caused by sufficient corrosion to make fast the ball. The other two fittings either side are not exempt.Nothing moves in them so you don’t notice it .

Unless you bond the whole lot to a external zinc ….which I have mentioned previously ^ .The weaker older components will turn into anodes .

When valves were replaced in my boat ( yard professionals ) they replaced all three , cutting the TTHF s out and re bedding new ones , new valve , then new hose tails . Never replaced just one piece .
Arie d Boom @ La Rague France and the same @ Amico , Loano Italy.
 

Bouba

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You guys are over thinking this....this only has to be water tight for a year and then she comes out for the annual service. There is no evidence yet of massive corrosion or leaching....if my repair works (and yes it’s a gamble because I am doing it myself) then what it’s cost is a lift out and a £200 part...my boating use will be uninterrupted...we can continue our planned weekend on the water. If the seal on the thru hull breaks or is severely corroded....then in the morning the port will put the boat on a cradle. Nothing is lost. To be told that hoses, full of water, are a fire risk is just plain nonsense.
I need people here to focus on the job in hand....not keep falling down rabbit holes.
This is not everyone, others have been helpful....including, but not limited to, Ian.
 

Bouba

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Frankly I don’t know how you are even thinking of putting the lives of your wife and the dog at risk……get a new boat😏
Exactly....I can’t believe that a handle that didn’t work until I put in its correct orientation nearly caused the internet to burn down.
 

vas

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fcking 'ell!

9 pages and the boat is still not on the slings yet :rolleyes:
should have bets on how many pages till it's back in the water on Monday!

OK, could also have bets on when it's going to be in the water as well 😁

poor boat, wife and dog...
 

Bouba

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fcking 'ell!

9 pages and the boat is still not on the slings yet :rolleyes:
should have bets on how many pages till it's back in the water on Monday!

OK, could also have bets on when it's going to be in the water as well 😁

poor boat, wife and dog...
Hi Vas !
Yes, seven pages....I’m afraid to post a picture of my second 70 mm wrench in case it gets verbally abused for a further six pages. The lift out should happen this afternoon 😀
 

jointventureII

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Swim under the boat, stick a flathead screwdriver into the thru hull hole hoping there is enough of an opening between the ball and the valve side to open it, and see if you can open it like that. If so, you're good for the rest of the season



(note: this is a joke, do not do this)
 

Bouba

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Your a YouTubers wet dream……..constant flow of content😂
Wait…there’s more…
Ok, this is my second tool….it might look flimsy but it is made from a pair of grips (actually two pair and a bit of a mole grip),,,so it should hold…I was going to cut off the superfluous handle to make it more conventional looking then thought, what the hell, an extra handle might come in handy




But the real question you should ask yourselves is, how does he get such crude looking concoctions accurate to point two of a millimetre 🤔
 

PaulRainbow

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Wait…there’s more…
Ok, this is my second tool….it might look flimsy but it is made from a pair of grips (actually two pair and a bit of a mole grip),,,so it should hold…I was going to cut off the superfluous handle to make it more conventional looking then thought, what the hell, an extra handle might come in handy




But the real question you should ask yourselves is, how does he get such crude looking concoctions accurate to point two of a millimetre 🤔
Chances of that undoing the seacock is less the zero
 

billskip

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Does the shaft (that is broken) not come out if the gland nut is removed?
If so remove it and temporarily replace it with a drill bit to seal the water weep..and get a new shaft?...until next lift and major service.
Just a thought really.....
 

Refueler

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fcking 'ell!

9 pages and the boat is still not on the slings yet :rolleyes:
should have bets on how many pages till it's back in the water on Monday!

OK, could also have bets on when it's going to be in the water as well 😁

poor boat, wife and dog...

9 - is that all ... my repair to Superanne after keel strike ... Anisette having A/F stripped ....

And c'mon - KING of all subjects - literally any Anchor thread !!

Years ago - you could also add 'Blue Ensigns' to that list of huge long running threads .... funny - haven't seen any Blue Ensign threads for years !!
 

Bouba

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Does the shaft (that is broken) not come out if the gland nut is removed?
If so remove it and temporarily replace it with a drill bit to seal the water weep..and get a new shaft?...until next lift and major service.
Just a thought really.....
Not following.....please elaborate
 

Refueler

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That might be correct....but it cost nothing but sweat to find out🤷‍♂️

As Delboy says .... He who dares !!

Thinking seacocks ... Anisette is going in today .. I'm a little concerned about the bilge pump arrangement .. I just replaced the pump and the non-return valve does not fit new pump. It looks like the flap valves in a Hendersen 5.
Bilge pipe runs below waterline to the sink overboard - which is below W/L ... and I cannot find any high U in it ..
I've closed the overboard seacock .. will be interesting to see what happens once afloat and I crack it open ...

back to Bouba !!
 

Fr J Hackett

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Well I do have case hardened welding rods....but they are for repairing the tips of machines that go in the ground...for example spade edges, digger bucket teeth (not that Ive ever had to do such a repair....I keep them for just in case)...for sticking two pieces of metal together ordinary welding rods will do...and as you can see I will err on the side of caution and overdo the welding
That's what you call it, I have other words for it.
 

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