Seacock handle broke

[Bouba]

Surely they will lower it on blocks but with the slings still in place, doesn't sound right leaving it in slings overnight without any additional support.

Since there are some unknowns in removing the old unit, I would just get the repairman to do it as he will have everything he needs and knows what to do if there are problems. If you make even a slight mistake like disturbing the thru hull seal, it will start weeping when back in the water, then you'll have all the expense of another liftout.

I do like your problem posts on this forum, some of the responses are quite informative.

Getting the man out...and the boat out simultaneously is the problem. He is busy this time of year...and I’ve been let down before. I know my limitations... and much of the work on the boat is done by professionals....but I do have a strong DIY input as well (with the collective help of the forum.....who I love dearly despite them being a bunch of argumentative codgers .....their only real fault is, if you show them a rabbit hole they all dive right in)

 

[Bouba]

Where I was going with this was to use the angle grinder to remove the skin fitting rather than trying to cut the valve from the skin fitting leaving it intact. Funnily enough I fitted a complete TruDesign seacock and skin fitting (I think the skin fitting was somewhere around a tenner). A very good piece of kit.
I'm not an expert on thru-hulls as so far I've only fitted one but everyone I've spoken to has suggested replacing the skin fitting at the same time as the valve as any deterioration of the valve will also equate to deterioration of the skin fitting. As I say, each to their own but if I'm going to the trouble of replacing a seacock I'd go the extra mile and replace the skin fitting at the same time. I don't want a nice new shiny seacock coming away with a skin fitting that has fractured.

I agree with the sentiment...that everything wears evenly. But the failure was the mechanical part of the seacock....when I take it off if it looks like it is toast...then I will replace the lot. Safety first

 

[Bouba]

Our boat had four struts wedged against the hull when it was in slings last weekend. It still moved a bit though, so I tied the ladder to the boat.

A quick question for Bouba. When you gave the sea cock the welly it needed to break it, which direction were you trying to open it? I had exactly the same problem this week due to misplacement of the threaded rod visible in your images. The only way the lever could move in your case, was clockwise looking at the handle. The pin would stop any anticlockwise motion with the cut out in the handle touching the screw. This screw can be moved to the other hole to allow the handle to move the other way.

Once I unscrewed the pin (allen key) on our boat, I could move the seacock when originally, like yours I thought it was stuck. Has it ever been operated in the past?

I closed the existing seacock....and it was very difficult...I have opened and closed it many times so it couldn’t have been an allen screw. No one comes on my boat just to annoy me...
Then as I tried to open it it snapped

 

[stelican]

Surely they will lower it on blocks but with the slings still in place, doesn't sound right leaving it in slings overnight without any additional support.

Since there are some unknowns in removing the old unit, I would just get the repairman to do it as he will have everything he needs and knows what to do if there are problems. If you make even a slight mistake like disturbing the thru hull seal, it will start weeping when back in the water, then you'll have all the expense of another liftout.

I do like your problem posts on this forum, some of the responses are quite informative.

Ah forgot it was out overnight

 

[Bouba]

Ah forgot it was out overnight

I think the operation begins at four pm tomorrow....but they need to tow my boat first.... the chandler closes at 6 pm ....but it will be rush hour

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I think the operation begins at four pm tomorrow....but they need to tow my boat first.... the chandler closes at 6 pm ....but it will be rush hour

You should in that case buy everything you may need for a complete replacement, if the through hull fitting moves you will be able to clean it up and reuse it providing that you have the sealant and it has the same thread as the valve that you have purchased. Having said that I would buy on a sale or return basis if know the shop a new through hull just in case. You have no chance of getting to the shop in time I doubt you will be able to get on the boat by 6pm. As regards stability they could lower the slings so the bottom of the hull keel if your boat has one just touches the ground but the slings remain tight.

 

[Bouba]

You should in that case buy everything you may need for a complete replacement, if the through hull fitting moves you will be able to clean it up and reuse it providing that you have the sealant and it has the same thread as the valve that you have purchased. Having said that I would buy on a sale or return basis if know the shop a new through hull just in case. You have no chance of getting to the shop in time I doubt you will be able to get on the boat by 6pm. As regards stability they could lower the slings so the bottom of the hull keel if your boat has one just touches the ground but the slings remain tight.

I’ve thought about that....but after my last experience removing a thru hull....the spare parts come after I’ve spent hell with a grinder....it will definitely be a put it on a cradle job

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I’ve thought about that....but after my last experience removing a thru hull....the spare parts come after I’ve spent hell with a grinder....it will definitely be a put it on a cradle job

But this time you are not intending to remove the through hull, it only needs replacing or rebidding if it moves or worst case doesn't match the valve. To be safe go and buy one. Sods law say's you won't need it if you do but will if you don't buy one.

 

[littledancersadhu]

The Groco IBV 2000 isn't exactly cheap, admittedly. Plus lifting etc.

I do my sea cocksbetween tides, hell, i even pulled out the propshaft to replace the stern gland, daring maybe!!!
I also pull the speed paddle when afloat to clean, i have a cap, bt the waterthat rushes in in that 2 seconds is astounding!!

 

[Scubadoo]

You should in that case buy everything you may need for a complete replacement, if the through hull fitting moves you will be able to clean it up and reuse it providing that you have the sealant and it has the same thread as the valve that you have purchased. Having said that I would buy on a sale or return basis if know the shop a new through hull just in case. You have no chance of getting to the shop in time I doubt you will be able to get on the boat by 6pm. As regards stability they could lower the slings so the bottom of the hull keel if your boat has one just touches the ground but the slings remain tight.

If you have to replace the thru hull fitting, check the sealant curing time, some state 24 hours which would be a problem overnight/launch, but saying that I think most are 12 hours curing time.

 

[Bouba]

If you have to replace the thru hull fitting, check the sealant curing time, some state 24 hours which would be a problem overnight/launch, but saying that I think most are 12 hours curing time.

I will be using Skelaflex 291i

 

[DavidJ]

The thru hull has a large nut inside the boat…and I have to make sure it doesn’t move or it will break the seal
This is why my plan is to make some dedicated 70 spanners today

I like your 70mm spanner idea. My guess is that the repairman, that some have suggested you use, probably won’t have one, will use a pipe wrench and will be less careful. (If they are anything like my lot in Spain)
Just a shrug of the shoulder and “need a new hull fitting, mate!”
A lot of care and a little bit of luck, you will be fine I’m sure.

 

[Timeless 2]

I can only give you my experience of changing seacocks but from being a plumber for 40 years. I just cut them out with a multi tool and grinder and replaced everything including the hose tail. I wouldn’t attempt to unscrew in position, not enough space for leverage. In plumbing works we would heat the fitting with 2 blow lamps and use 24 inch pipe wrench to undo. That is for tapered fitting, the boat fitting will be parallel so should be easier but you never know. You’d also need a vice to hold the valve to get the hose tail out. As said it is much easier to cut everything out and replace all. I fitted a Tru design through hulls and valves, you can do it all up by hand with sealant.

 

[Wansworth]

I do my sea cocksbetween tides, hell, i even pulled out the propshaft to replace the stern gland, daring maybe!!!
I also pull the speed paddle when afloat to clean, i have a cap, bt the waterthat rushes in in that 2 seconds is astounding!!

Are there tides in themed

 

[Wansworth]

I can only give you my experience of changing seacocks but from being a plumber for 40 years. I just cut them out with a multi tool and grinder and replaced everything including the hose tail. I wouldn’t attempt to unscrew in position, not enough space for leverage. In plumbing works we would heat the fitting with 2 blow lamps and use 24 inch pipe wrench to undo. That is for tapered fitting, the boat fitting will be parallel so should be easier but you never know. You’d also need a vice to hold the valve to get the hose tail out. As said it is much easier to cut everything out and replace all. I fitted a Tru design through hulls and valves, you can do it all up by hand with sealant.

He is a wealthy yacht owner ……….

 

[Bouba]

Ok….just manufactured my first 70mm wrench out of an old welders mole grip

 

[Bouba]

Owing to a unique weather formation in the South of France it has been raining apricots

 

[Wansworth]

Owing to a unique weather formation in the South of France it has been raining apricots

Don’t let Hackett see your garden seats……he told me off

 

[Bouba]

Don’t let Hackett see your garden seats……he told me off

They are teak...so are supposed to be that color

 

[Wansworth]

They are teak...so are supposed to be that color

That won’t wash