Seacock handle broke

[Refueler]

They are teak...so are supposed to be that color

I really dislike seeing Teak left to silver ... Teak has such a rich glow to it when oiled or stained to bring out its natural colour.

 

[Bouba]

I really dislike seeing Teak left to silver ... Teak has such a rich glow to it when oiled or stained to bring out its natural colour.

Don’t forget jet wash....

 

[Refueler]

Don’t forget jet wash....

You ought to know that you should not power / jet washTeak ... it literally strips away layers and oils.

 

[Wansworth]

You ought to know that you should not power / jet washTeak ... it literally strips away layers and oils.

Yes washes out the soft areas……as in a teak deck

 

[Bouba]

I have now finished making my second wrench, l like making new tools out of old...they are already case hardened, much better than using mild steel....repurposed and made quickly they look crude but usually are effective...I haven’t included a photo because it’s downstairs cooling off

 

[Seastoke]

I take it one of the spanner’s will be on the through hull nut , if so to give you a see hand you can extend the handle on the spanner you made so it can rest on a stringer while you undo the valve.

 

[Bouba]

I take it one of the spanner’s will be on the through hull nut , if so to give you a see hand you can extend the handle on the spanner you made so it can rest on a stringer while you undo the valve.

Yes....tomorrow I will do a test run and perfect my technique

 

[iantomlinson]

I take it one of the spanner’s will be on the through hull nut , if so to give you a see hand you can extend the handle on the spanner you made so it can rest on a stringer while you undo the valve.

dont put a spanner on the though hull nut. the skin fitting will still turn then the bond is broken and a leak will ensue. you need a 'spanner handle' on the nibs inside the through hull from outside otherwise you could be knackered.

 

[iantomlinson]

please stop relying on the nut inside the hull.... it means nowt

 

[Bouba]

dont put a spanner on the though hull nut. the skin fitting will still turn then the bond is broken and a leak will ensue. you need a 'spanner handle' on the nibs inside the through hull from outside otherwise you could be knackered.

This is a solo effort !.....if I sense the fitting has moved I will go to plan B....putting the boat in a cradle and taking my time

 

[iantomlinson]

ref my pm post, undo the skin fitting by an inch on the thread while its all together then when all is back together inside, then 291 inside and out of skin fitting and tighten. youve got a better chance of doing that on your own. the skin fitting doesnt need much force to tighten with sealant when all hoses and fittings are in place. it just needs time for the sealant to grip. ask anybody who has done them. please dont rely on people who say put a spanner on the nut behind the skin fitting. youll have a 10% chance of it not moving. asking for trouble.

 

[DavidJ]

Ok….just manufactured my first 70mm wrench out of an old welders mole grip

Great job
Think I’d like to see the handle extended a little. The stopcock could be very tight.

I’ve only just read @iantomlinson post and your reply. Good points

You do still stand a chance of it working. Perhaps make a mark to see if the hull fitting has moved.

 

[Bouba]

Great job
Think I’d like to see the handle extended a little. The stopcock could be very tight.

I’ve only just read @iantomlinson post and your reply. Good points

I’ve got all sorts of pipes and rods to give me extra leverage ....but as a general rule, short handles can fit most places in a boat that a long handle can’t

 

[Bouba]

ref my pm post, undo the skin fitting by an inch on the thread while its all together then when all is back together inside, then 291 inside and out of skin fitting and tighten. youve got a better chance of doing that on your own. the skin fitting doesnt need much force to tighten with sealant when all hoses and fittings are in place. it just needs time for the sealant to grip. ask anybody who has done them. please dont rely on people who say put a spanner on the nut behind the skin fitting. youll have a 10% chance of it not moving. asking for trouble.

Ian, I have been studying YouTube video after YouTube video since your warning. I don’t really have much to lose by trying it myself....if it doesn’t work the worse that can happen is the boat stays out the water a little longer while I replace the thru hull

 

[billskip]

old...they are already case hardened, much better than using mild steel....

Where did you get you case hardened welding rods?

 

[Bouba]

Where did you get you case hardened welding rods?

Well I do have case hardened welding rods....but they are for repairing the tips of machines that go in the ground...for example spade edges, digger bucket teeth (not that Ive ever had to do such a repair....I keep them for just in case)...for sticking two pieces of metal together ordinary welding rods will do...and as you can see I will err on the side of caution and overdo the welding

 

[stelican]

dont put a spanner on the though hull nut. the skin fitting will still turn then the bond is broken and a leak will ensue. you need a 'spanner handle' on the nibs inside the through hull from outside otherwise you could be knackered.

That's his second warning at least!

 

[Bouba]

That's his second warning at least!

All that matters is that Ian is not the sort of guy who says told you so

 

[jfm]

I can only give you my experience of changing seacocks but from being a plumber for 40 years. I just cut them out with a multi tool and grinder and replaced everything including the hose tail. I wouldn’t attempt to unscrew in position, not enough space for leverage. In plumbing works we would heat the fitting with 2 blow lamps and use 24 inch pipe wrench to undo. That is for tapered fitting, the boat fitting will be parallel so should be easier but you never know. You’d also need a vice to hold the valve to get the hose tail out. As said it is much easier to cut everything out and replace all. I fitted a Tru design through hulls and valves, you can do it all up by hand with sealant.

100% agree. Change the whole lot. Anything else is messy, might be impossible, and just amateurish. But the OP will take no notice and focus more on trying to save €20

 

[Bouba]

100% agree. Change the whole lot. Anything else is messy, might be impossible, and just amateurish. But the OP will take no notice and focus more on trying to save €20

I may end up changing the lot..but I’m going to start by trying to just change the offending piece