Seacock handle broke

[PaulRainbow]

That might be correct....but it cost nothing but sweat to find out

Not true. Everyone here who has ever fitted a seacock knows that won't undo it.

You also consistently refuse to listen to warnings about putting a spanner on the through hull nut. Doing that is stupid, holding the nut does not stop the through hull from turning, it only stops the nut from turning ?

Knock a tapered wooden bung into the through hull from the outside and cut the flange off with a hole saw. Then unscrew what's left from the inside. Fit a new through hull, seacock and hosetail. Takes less than an hour, you know everything fits together, you know it's sealed and you know you won't have to be chocked up, costing more money and losing boating time.

I fully expect that you will ignore this advise, as you have done with everyone elses advice and turn this into one of your never ending sagas.

 

[PaulRainbow]

That's what you call it, I have other words for it.

When i learned how to weld that was called "bird shit"

 

[Bouba]

That's what you call it, I have other words for it.

Feel free to express yourself....it certainly won’t be worth anything

 

[Refueler]

Not true. Everyone here who has ever fitted a seacock knows that won't undo it.

You also consistently refuse to listen to warnings about putting a spanner on the through hull nut. Doing that is stupid, holding the nut does not stop the through hull from turning, it only stops the nut from turning ?

Knock a tapered wooden bung into the through hull from the outside and cut the flange off with a hole saw. Then unscrew what's left from the inside. Fit a new through hull, seacock and hosetail. Takes less than an hour, you know everything fits together, you know it's sealed and you know you won't have to be chocked up, costing more money and losing boating time.

I fully expect that you will ignore this advise, as you have done with everyone elses advice and turn this into one of your never ending sagas.

I'd be even simpler .... take a grinder and carefully grind the outer flange off - in so doing also taking away all sealant and roughness that may be left ..

 

[PaulRainbow]

I'd be even simpler .... take a grinder and carefully grind the outer flange off - in so doing also taking away all sealant and roughness that may be left ..

Would you trust the OP with a grinder ?

 

[Bouba]

Not true. Everyone here who has ever fitted a seacock knows that won't undo it.

You also consistently refuse to listen to warnings about putting a spanner on the through hull nut. Doing that is stupid, holding the nut does not stop the through hull from turning, it only stops the nut from turning ?

Knock a tapered wooden bung into the through hull from the outside and cut the flange off with a hole saw. Then unscrew what's left from the inside. Fit a new through hull, seacock and hosetail. Takes less than an hour, you know everything fits together, you know it's sealed and you know you won't have to be chocked up, costing more money and losing boating time.

I fully expect that you will ignore this advise, as you have done with everyone elses advice and turn this into one of your never ending sagas.

When i learned how to weld that was called "bird shit"

Paul, write something constructive.......there, that should keep him busy until I’ve finished

 

[jakew009]

@Bouba i think the part that you are missing is that unscrewing the valve off the skin fitting is going to be nigh on impossible. It will be absolutely stuck fast.

It’s even more patently absurd when you are going to try and do it without putting a locking spanner in the outside of the through hull to stop it from turning.

I just replaced all the through hulls in my Jenneau, and after a few hours of pissing about with spanners I just took a multi tool to it and sliced the valve in half. Took about 2 minutes.
I couldn’t easily cut it off from outside because it had one of those stupid strainer things on it.

Then stick a new tru design through hull in, sikaflex it up, put a tru design valve on top and back in the water.

You could do the hole thing in less than an hour.

What JFM is saying is that the hose between the engine and the thru hull is awful and will be like a bit of rigid pipe. It’s far easier to replace it with some fire rated exhaust hose then mess around with the original crap.

The fire rates bit comes from if you ever have a fire in your engine room, the current stuff will melt in about 3 seconds. Your boat will then start sinking even if the fire extinguisher manages to put the fire out.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Feel free to express yourself....it certainly won’t be worth anything

Paul beat me to it. You obviously have no shame and can't be embarrassed posting pictures like those but then I knew that the moment I saw you.

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Would you trust the OP with a grinder ?

Nope. Grinder plus Bouba = hole in boat.

 

[Bouba]

@Bouba i think the part that you are missing is that unscrewing the valve off the skin fitting is going to be nigh on impossible. It will be absolutely stuck fast.

It’s even more patently absurd when you are going to try and do it without putting a locking spanner in the outside of the through hull to stop it from turning.

I just replaced all the through hulls in my Jenneau, and after a few hours of pissing about with spanners I just took a multi tool to it and sliced the valve in half. Took about 2 minutes.
I couldn’t easily cut it off from outside because it had one of those stupid strainer things on it.

Then stick a new tru design through hull in, sikaflex it up, put a tru design valve on top and back in the water.

You could do the hole thing in less than an hour.

What JFM is saying is that the hose between the engine and the thru hull is awful and will be like a bit of rigid pipe. It’s far easier to replace it with some fire rated exhaust hose then mess around with the original crap.

The fire rates bit comes from if you ever have a fire in your engine room, the current stuff will melt in about 3 seconds. Your boat will then start sinking even if the fire extinguisher manages to put the fire out.

I have told everyone, a dozen times so far....that if I can’t get the seacock off without damaging the thru hull, I will replace the thru hull.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Paul, write something constructive.......there, that should keep him busy until I’ve finished

I think you'll find #181 very constructive, but you can't tell the difference.

 

[jakew009]

I have told everyone, a dozen times so far....that if I can’t get the seacock off without damaging the thru hull, I will replace the thru hull.

I would get the tru design thru hull ordered up now

 

[billskip]

Not following.....please elaborate

Many years back we could get repair kits for the ball valve (Italian make ss) the kit was Teflon ball seals,Teflon gland seal, shaft and ball.....basically all the guts without the body...I can't remember now dismantle them if the ball had to be removed to let the shaft out ...or the shaft removed via the gland seal and the ball removed....if the shaft is removable via the gland seal then a suitable sized drill bit shaft could be used as a temporary seal until a replacement shaft is located.(if available)

 

[PaulRainbow]

I would get the tru design thru hull ordered up now

Had my boat on the hard a few weeks ago for anti foul etc. One of the jobs was to replace one of the 1" heads seacocks with a 1 1/2" seacock. I went for one of these : Forespar Marelon Seacock Valve (Through Hull / 1-1/2" Hose)

Used a hole saw, as i mentioned in '181, cleaned and sanded the surfaces, fitted the new assembly and was all done in less than an hour. Next time we come out i'll replace the others, was short of time this year.

 

[Refueler]

My SR25 ... being a 1970's build and based on a Poole Hbr workboat .. they created the Searider 24 and Sunrider 25 on that hull ...

I fitted a speed log ... The GRP of that hull is solid ... I went through 3 hole cutters to make the hole ! I was shocked at the hardness and how it just killed those hole cutters ... they were not cheapo local DIY shop cutters either.

 

[Bouba]

Had my boat on the hard a few weeks ago for anti foul etc. One of the jobs was to replace one of the 1" heads seacocks with a 1 1/2" seacock. I went for one of these : Forespar Marelon Seacock Valve (Through Hull / 1-1/2" Hose)

Used a hole saw, as i mentioned in '181, cleaned and sanded the surfaces, fitted the new assembly and was all done in less than an hour. Next time we come out i'll replace the others, was short of time this year.

You went to sea with old thru hulls .....how have you survived

 

[Bouba]

My SR25 ... being a 1970's build and based on a Poole Hbr workboat .. they created the Searider 24 and Sunrider 25 on that hull ...

I fitted a speed log ... The GRP of that hull is solid ... I went through 3 hole cutters to make the hole ! I was shocked at the hardness and how it just killed those hole cutters ... they were not cheapo local DIY shop cutters either.

The Beneteau hulls are a little softer

 

[vas]

You went to sea with old thru hulls .....how have you survived

a friend here has the same P45 as Paul, hasn't replaced any of the engine/heads through hulls.
Still floating 350days a year

 

[jfm]

I really cannot see your point....

Yup I realise that. You are getting good advice here but ignoring it.

To be told that hoses, full of water, are a fire risk is just plain nonsense.

Your misunderstanding on this fire point is shocking. Jake has kindly explained in #187 but the fact you can't see it is a shocker (for the passengers in your boat, mostly).

Anyways good luck with the job today.

 

[Bouba]

a friend here has the same P45 as Paul, hasn't replaced any of the engine/heads through hulls.
Still floating 350days a year

Exactly, and I have every confidence in what I am about to do