Seacock handle broke

Bouba

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I need urgent advice…I was exercising the engine thru hull seacock…it was very hard to close…but opening it was ridiculous….so I gave it a little welly…and the handle snapped off…the seacock is in either a closed or nearly closed position
 

Bouba

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First, you might want to order a new one.

It seems to be in between. Loosen the clip and see if water comes out. If it does, can it be started or moved to where it can be lifted?
Getting the boat out isn’t a problem because they can tow me to the takeout point…but it will be a financial disaster!…
 

iantomlinson

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Don't undo that nut. The ball is chrome plated brass. Brass. Probably siezed. Buy a tru design same size with ptfe tape. Some boatyards will lift for 20 mins just out of the water cheaply. They might say only our blokes can go on. Lift just out the water, replace and go back in then sort the plumbing after??
 

Bouba

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Don't undo that nut. The ball is chrome plated brass. Brass. Probably siezed. Buy a tru design same size with ptfe tape. Some boatyards will lift for 20 mins just out of the water cheaply. They might say only our blokes can go on. Lift just out the water, replace and go back in then sort the plumbing after??
That is what I was saying to the wife….but it means mating a plastic seacock to a bronze alloy thru hull…otherwise I have to replace the thru hull which is a major job. Can the two dissimilar materials be mated?
 

wonkywinch

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First, you might want to order a new one.

Edit: By looking at a new, it seems the flat sides indecate the valve position, so in between. Loosen the clip and see if water comes out. If it does, can it be started or moved to where it can be lifted?

View attachment 178354
The two screw holes under the tap are for a stop screw, in fact you can see this fitted in one of Bouba's original images. I always had a problem closing the galley sea cock on our 2016 Beneteau AWB and waited until the boat was out of the water before using more force.

This happened last week and I just could not move the lever. I took the handle off to put a spanner on the flat and saw the wording on the handle "move pin to change handle rotation". I took the old threaded pin out (allen key) and the handle now moved freely. Beneteau had put the screw in the wrong side locking the lever in the open position.

How this missed Beneteau's QC and 3 owners over 7 years with various checks and surveys (even my surveyor never commented on the inability to close one of the seacocks). Fortunately the solution was cheap and easy but I am shocked by how many people must have noticed this over the life of the boat and yet nothing had been done until now.

20240601_123708.jpg
 
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iantomlinson

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the tru design is no concern for the 'different materials'. your only concern is keeping the skin fitting from moving(2 nibs in the hole from outside with a suitable sized spanner or somat to stop turning.. from memory, the tru design thread is a bit "looser" hence the ptfe(easily 10-15 turns). try the 2 different fittings in the chandlers to see how they match but i'd say they should. make sure though. another thought, do they have a replacement bronze fitting if youre not thay sure....the point is- to take old one off and fit any new closed valve should be 10 mins carefully.
 

DavidJ

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That is what I was saying to the wife….but it means mating a plastic seacock to a bronze alloy thru hull…otherwise I have to replace the thru hull which is a major job. Can the two dissimilar materials be mated?
Not really answering your question but I fitted the tru design seacock including thru hull a few years back and I like the product so much that I would recommend biting the bullet and doing the whole job in plastic. You are set up for the next decade plus.
 

iantomlinson

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another thought kidda. if the old valve is stuck open, get new valve. pull off the hose and screw the new valve in just after the elbow. it will get you through the season till winter liftout. there will be some water comes in but you could do it quickly afloat with a pair of grips on the elbow. saves money and postpones disturbing the skin fitting. Gets you out the mire.
 

markc

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I'd go for a lift & hold - maybe an option at lunchtime break? Failing that, I guess a diver could block the intake so you can change the elbow whilst afloat. I'd change like-for-like now and schedule any other changes for the usual liftout,
 

Bouba

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Ok…I’ve bought a new seacock…bronze alloy (I mean gold colour)…hopefully it is the right size…I’m hoping to use the original 90 degree bend and other bits…so now I need to assemble the tools and sealant (291) and arrange for a tow and lift out and hope that I can finish the job while it’s still hanging from the crane
 

MapisM

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Did you turn the engine on and check the raw water flow?
It seems to me it's stuck just about half way, which by and large is enough to cool the engine up to half of its power.
And at a guess, you're using less than that at relaxed cruising speed.
Assuming these guesses are correct, just enjoy the boat till when you'll have to lift her out for whatever other reason.
 

Plum

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Would turning the large nut anti clockwise open the seacock or lead to disaster?
That nut just compresses the gland/seal that stops water leaking out of the shaft hole so turning it will not rotate the ball. The shaft, or what is left of it, is not part of the ball, just engages in a slot in the side of the ball. However, as others have said and what you are planning, fit a complete new valve.
 
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