Round Britain day 30

Concerto

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Today was so different from yesterday. I think summer must be over as the sun must have had enough yesterday. It was back into full oil skins and woolly hat today.

There was no rush to leave this morning due to the tides. So slipped the berth at 9.45 and slowly made my way out of the harbour for the 50 mile trip. Then turned into wind to raise the mainsail. When I left Fair Isle the top of the island was shrouded in grey mist and as I sailed away the visibility was about 2 miles. Yesterday I could see Shetland.

The sail started as a close reach with full canvas. The speed started at 6¼ knots and steadily increased to 7½ knots, almost making me reef the main. Slowly the tide pushed me to lee, and I only took steps to correct the course, not to go to windward of the course on the chart plotter. Big mistake. I was sailing faster than I planned and this caused me problems as I arrived off the tip of Shetland in the strongest tide pushing me westward and I was below the course on the chart plotter by about a mile. I had already altered course by 25 degrees, but I was being swept westward despite now being hard on the wind and hand steering.

The forecast last night was for SE winds, but this was E going to ENE and causing me problems. I was being forced into the bay beside Sumburgh Head. The waves were quite confused but coming from astern. The speed had dropped to under 5 knots, so the only option was to tack – the first of the trip so far. Unfortunately, the confused waves were almost on the bow and the speed dropped to 3½ knots and I could not get moving any faster. Then I looked at the chart plotter to see the angle of the tack – 170 degrees!!!! Almost the direction I had sailed from.

There was nothing else for it but to tack back, start old faithful and furl the genoa away, whilst I climbed to windward. The tide was running at about 2½ knots despite it being neaps, so progress was slow. Eventually I turned along the coast and the tide magically eased to just a knot. What a difference a mile makes.

With the genoa unrolled and engine off, I was back on a close reach doing 7 knots. The top of the cliffs were shrouded in mist, but I could hear the aircraft taking off and landing at the airport. Halfway to Lerwick, the visibility dropped to about 200 metres. The temperature dropped even further to about 10C. Brrrrr, it was cold for flaming June. Sailing in poor visibility is not fun, but luckily, I knew this was not a major ferry route where I was now sailing. I passed one island at 400 metres according to the chart plotter, but I never saw a thing. Then it started to rain.

As I approached the southern entrance to Lerwick, the visibility increased to about a mile and the rain almost stopped. After mooring up alongside another boat in Victoria harbour at 17.15, the heavens opened and since then heavy rain showers have continued regularly. What a welcome.

I have realised I have a new problem starting. Having reached the Shetlands and I will go pass Muckle Flugga - weather permitting, from here on I have to start the long haul home, mostly on the wind.

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This was where I got a poor mobile connection above Fair Isle harbour.

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The top of Fair Isle was shrouded in mist.

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Sumburgh Head, not like a mill pond,

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For anyone wanting to read the reports from the start, this is the link to first one.
Round Britian day 1
 

boomerangben

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Ah the famous 20kt fog (or sometimes 40kt fog). Such a shame as Shetland is spectacular and sparkles when the sun shines. Hope the weather will be kind to you over the coming days. Would love to sail there
 

westhinder

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I hope the previous day does not turn out to have been the complete northern summer. Hopefully the Hebrides have one or two more days of summer in store for you.
 

srm

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Unfortunately, you have typical weather for E to SE winds in 'summer'. The sea fog/low cloudbase is typical for both Shetland and Orkney.

The last time we sailed to Shetland we anchored in Mousa Sound to visit the broch. The forecasts indicated a spell of easterly weather so the next morning we doubled back around the Heads and cruised the west side where the weather was marginally better.

The berths in Lerwick harbour are uncomfortable in easterlies. If the wind goes north of east the Small Boat harbour (the southern basin) is the better berth. However, with strong winds it may be more comfortable to anchor across the harbour in the lee of Bressay.
 
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Concerto

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Today has been looking round Lerwick. Here are a few photos.

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Small boat harbour in Lerwick.

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The main section of the small boat harbour for visiting yachts, but seemed too full when I arrived.

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The modern Museum of Shetland.

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Typical crofter home - with no windows!

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The importance of the cow to Shetlanders, for milk, manure plus meat, hides, horns etc.

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Part of an old upturned boat used as an animal shelter.

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Some of the small boats, there are still more above them.

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A Singer 9 car.

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The Maggie Helen was built in 1904 in this shed alongside the museum and should be launched to sail again by the end of July.

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The walls of Fort Charlotte.

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The Town Hall. All of the upper windows are stained glass telling the story of Viking earls, Norwegian Kings and journeys over the sea. It is usually open to visit on weekdays when the offices are open.

Finally a puzzle for you. This stone object was on display in the museum. What is it?
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If no one guesses it correctly I will give the answer tomorrow night.
 
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AngusMcDoon

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Unfortunately, you have typical weather for E to SE winds in 'summer'. The sea fog/low cloudbase is typical for both Shetland and Orkney.

The weather is often clear and sunny on the west coast of Scotland with any east in the wind in spring and summer. Unfortunately, by the time he gets round there, the south westerlies will have started as the lows come zooming across as the stormy season in the west Atlantic gets going. Then it will be strong winds for 2 out of every 4 days with 1 windless and 1 decent sailing day interspersed. It usually kicks off in that pattern in July. That's why it's better to go clockwise - get the west coast in May/June when the weather's nicer there, and get the east coast when the westerlies have started. Last year was unusual in that there were a lot of northerlies bringing fine weather in August, which just goes to show it's just patterns, not certainties.
 

srm

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The weather is often clear and sunny on the west coast of Scotland with any east in the wind in spring and summer.
Remember one year with easterly winds giving a cold wet spring/early summer in Orkney. Once we had sailed south of Cape Wrath we were in a land with water shortages and could safely walk over sphagnum bogs kicking up dust.
 

Concerto

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Well this morning, the boat I was tied against was leaving at 8.30. The boat outside left and moored with the yachts on the other side of the harbour. I decided to let him slipout and winch myself back against the wall. Once all sorted I checked my water tank and realised I needed to fill it. Went looking for the nearest tap, there was not one on the whole pier. So, I then had to move to the other side to get water. Probably the shortest journey of this trip! I tied alongside a German steel yacht, but no one was aboard. Later a mother and daughter arrived, they had been for a dip in the sea! The daughter said they may leave this afternoon or tomorrow. She said she would let me know. Her father then appeared and helped me fill the water tank. Nothing about leaving was said. After lunch I decided to walk to Tesco's which takes about 20 minutes. After buying more than I expected, I staggered back to Concerto, only to find the German family had left and I was alongside the pontoon. A Norwegian owner had pulled my boat in and tied it up for me. I thanked him, but he just said he was happy to help. After a brief rest and putting all the shopping away, I then adjusted the lines to my satisfaction.

One thing I have found strange in Scotland is the supermarkets on Sundays open for normal hours, the Tesco is open 7am till 11pm every day. By comparison virtually all the shops in the town centre are closed. This seemed strange as a cruise ship was in town, so they must have missed out on some business.

Checking online to see where I can get a Camping Gaz refill, there is only one supplier on Shetland and they deliver on a Monday to Lerwick. So I used their online order facility to order a bottle. It is a shame they are about 2½ miles outside Lerwick or I would have walked there. They charge £5 delivery and with this it still worked out cheaper than the garage in Kirkwall wanted to charge.

At 23.50 I had a Swedish boat of about 28ft tie alongside. The husband and wife had just sailed from Denmark! It had taken them 3 days. I think they will sleep well tonight despite the 25 knot winds forecast. Overnight the direction will change from SE to S, making the harbour quieter with less motion.

Now time for bed.

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