Round Britain day 30

[Concerto]

If you go to the Outer Hebrides be prepared for almost everything being closed on a Sunday, Tesco included.

That is what I was expecting in most of the smaller places in Scotland.

 

[boomerangben]

As Angus said, here in Stornoway the only place open on a Sunday is one of the petrol stations (with mini mart), 10 till 4 and one of the bakeries. The hotels are open to non residents and one or two cafes and takeaways are open too

 

[srm]

As Angus said, here in Stornoway the only place open on a Sunday is one of the petrol stations (with mini mart), 10 till 4 and one of the bakeries. The hotels are open to non residents and one or two cafes and takeaways are open too

Steady progress then, the influence of the Kirk must be seriously slipping since they allowed a Sunday ferry sailing.

I have an early memory of my younger brother in tears having been berated by a very angry lady for desecrating the sabbath - he had picked some wild blackberries. That was on the mainland south of Mull, probably '59 or '60.

It has been a tradition in Scotland for hotel bars to be open on Sundays for 'travellers' but not locals, even when bar opening hours were severely restricted across the country. My first visit to Scrabster, ('69 or '70) was on a Saturday having been put ashore from a survey vessel. The hotel had a metal grill across the front door that was locked closed at nine while residents continued to drink in the bar. Every now and again the grill would be rattled from outside. Next day we had to take a taxi to Inverness to get the night sleeper to London as no trains ran north of Inverness on a Sunday.

 

[westhinder]

It has been a tradition in Scotland for hotel bars to be open on Sundays for 'travellers' but not locals, even when bar opening hours were severely restricted across the country.

That was not my experience on my first visit to Skye in the late seventies. I stayed in a B&B, the landlady laid the table on Saturday evening, on the Sunday morning all she did was make tea and some toast and after I had finished she covered the table with a tablecloth and didn‘t touch it until Monday morning. I spent a miserable day out in the rain and couldn’t find anything to eat or drink all day.

 

[srm]

I stayed in a B&B, the landlady laid the table on Saturday evening, on the Sunday morning . . . . .

A B&B is often someone's home and is very different to hotels with licensed bars that I was referring too. I am not surprised at your experience and could give other examples in a similar vein.

 

[Concerto]

A few things done today. Walked to the Honda agent as I wanted some spare shear pins for my outboard. They had them in their stores elsewhere, so collecting them in the morning. Bought a couple of shower curtains so I can finally get to use my shower onboard. Just need to now stick the hooks up to holt them onto the bulkheads, maybe later tonight. Last night I ordered a gas bottle and they said they would be here at 2.15 and that is when it arrived. Brilliant service.

Now for a bit of bad news. I went into a bike shop this morning and saw a folding electric bike I liked, but due to the cost I said I would think about it, but would be back before 3 if I was going to buy it. They had only gone and sold it! They had a slightly more expensive one in the window from the same manufacturer. I liked it but the extra money I did not like. The shop manager then said these bikes are the manufacturing company's stock and I had to pay the company as they then get paid a commission for every one sold. The manager then said she would phone the company to see if there was a better price as it was already in stock. Yes, I saved £200, thank you very much. So my bank account took a hit and I left with a new bike and a few necessary extras like a helmet and pump. Went back to the boat to drop off the pump and accessories that came with the bike, then went off for a ride. What a difference a modern bike makes with full suspension, hydraulic brakes and electrical assistance. On the flat no assistance from the motor was necessary and I had 8 gears to choose from. When there was a slight rise, I added a little assistance and it made things easier. When I tried a steeper hill that I staggered up yesterday with the shopping, I could believe how increasing the power made it almost like riding on the flat. I am sold on having an electric bike and hope to be able to travel from the boat to see sights that are beyond the range of shanks pony and not having the bother of rigid schedule public transport. Since getting back to the boat 2 couples off different boats have stopped to ask about the bike. Neither knew there was a bike shop in Lerwick.

The wind has dropped this afternoon and I was able to get the drone out. This is the photo of the harbour here in Lerwick. The yellow hulled boat is alongside Concerto.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

It's encouraging to see lots of visiting yachts to that part of the world. Not only the long keeled stuff but very much a mixture of types.

It's nice doing your own thing . Some may find it lonely, but singled handed to me means independence rather than seeking solitude. There is never a shortage of people to meet when your not sailing, either locals or fellow travelers.

 

[ProDave]

How are you finding Lerwick for eating out? When we were there is was the most difficult place to get a decent meal out, Such bizarre things as pubs / restaurants closed on Sundays and Mondays, and hotel restaurants only open to residents. We did find a few places but they don't exactly advertise themselves. You would really think they are not geared up for tourist. For the 2 weeks we were there, our motto was we would get a meal, regardless of time of day, whenever we found anywhere, as the usual rules of go out for a meal in the evening just did not apply there.

 

[srm]

It's encouraging to see lots of visiting yachts to that part of the world.

When I was there, both as a resident in the 70's and 80's and again more recently a number of the boats were on the Norwegian booze run. The cargo was purchased in the Co-op or elsewhere at local prices making a considerable saving over Norwegian prices. One crew explained that they stopped off to leave the cargo at a coastal cottage before returning to their home port. Cargo was then recovered at bit at a time as required.

 

[Concerto]

There are plenty of Norwegian boats as some used the Bergen to Shetland race as a feeder to start a holiday, the pure race boats left yesterday to race home. The variety of nations on this trip has been quite varied and also includes Swedish, Danish, Polish, German, Dutch, and French, but I did see one boat from ..........Malta. I have chatted with a lot of these continental sailors as their English is far better than my languages. The chat always revolve around where you and they are from and going. Some have asked about places I have visited and made notes on those I recommend.

Sorry srm but few of the foreign boats bother buying from the Co-op as there is a duty free supply available to them and it gets delivered to the quayside.

Eating out as a singlehanded sailor, I very occasionally might have a light bite at lunch time or a fish and chips takeaway. In my working life I spent too many nights away and eating alone in hotels, so I tend to buy good food and cook on board. I have bought steak, lamb steaks, pork steaks, minced beef, chicken, sausages, venison burgers, cod, plaice, smoked haddock, kippers, skate and crab. A few favourite sauces help make tasty meal. Then I add fresh vegetables. In the store cupboard I always have a few emergency fast meals for when I am tired and hungry after a long hard sail.

When I was out walking to get fish and chips, (but 2 chip shops had sold out of fish, so I had to have a pie) I saw three places serving food and they had some empty tables. Could not say about any of the local hotels as most are slightly further away. With so many visitors in the harbour, lots of them are eating out or having fish and chips.

My feel of Lerwick compared to Kirkwall is that Kirkwall is the better place for shopping as there are more cruise liners going there. Lerwick seems slightly run down but with virtually no empty shops. The people in both places are very friendly and offer good service with a smile and are happy to pass the time of day. Having spent a similar number of days here, I have managed to spend a lot more money here than in Kirkwall.

 

[Neeves]

We have found sailing to new places 'restrictive' without a bicycle or a kayak. We have also found sailing is not a great 'vehicle' to exercise your legs - arms and torso - yes and the kayak also exercise the arms - so we have resisted the electric bike (and its another thing to suck power out of the batteries). We will be interested in you long term conclusions. We have human powered folding bikes and kayaks (despite a fetish for weight on board).

We have the same views as you on food - cook your own. When you are pinned down by weather (or tide) or looking for a decent breakfast at sea cooking is a pleasurable occupation. You just need to stock up with sauces, spices and some decent oatmeal . We also trawl at sea and usually have a surfeit of fresh fish.

Jonathan

 

[srm]

Sorry srm but few of the foreign boats bother buying from the Co-op as there is a duty free supply available to them and it gets delivered to the quayside.

Ah, the Brexit dividend.

 

[Blueboatman]

Fold up bike onboard is just brilliant.
And the buses let you on too

 

[Daverw]

Just bought electric assist folding bike, spent yesterday making cover for it and taking it with us next week. Will make venturing further easier as I have a bad knee

 

[Sandy]

We have found sailing to new places 'restrictive' without a bicycle or a kayak.

Interesting, I am in the process of selling both the fold up bicycles as they take up far to much room and I just can't get on with them, If I want to cycle I hire a bike.

 

[michael_w]

There is no law that says 'You cannot take a taxi'.

 

[wully1]

Interesting, I am in the process of selling both the fold up bicycles as they take up far to much room and I just can't get on with them, If I want to cycle I hire a bike.

we are also selling ours as they take up too much room in our dinghy - we tend to anchor and walk if we need to go anywhere.
We thought about buying a bigger tender but we’ve already been through the whole ‘why are we berthing,maintaining,sailing , paying for all this empty space?‘ exercise so the last thing we want to do is buy a bigger anything...

 

[dunedin]

Interesting, I am in the process of selling both the fold up bicycles as they take up far to much room and I just can't get on with them, If I want to cycle I hire a bike.

I guess this one does depend a lot on (a) size of boat (b) number of crew on board and (c) where sailing.
For Concerto sailing solo and about to visit some stunning and remote islands, a folding bike makes a lot of sense.
If sailing 6 up, or in any compact / crowded boat, and going to busy places with full tourist facilities hiring a bike is clearly preferable.
Bikes, even folding ones, do take a fair bit of space - but are great when you need them.

 

[Neeves]

Interesting, I am in the process of selling both the fold up bicycles as they take up far to much room and I just can't get on with them, If I want to cycle I hire a bike.

We visit places where there are tracks but no people - the nearest habitation might be 50km away. Different places, different needs.

Jonathan

 

[Concerto]

There is no law that says 'You cannot take a taxi'.

Oh yes there is, the bank balance.