Repacking a stern gland

[penfold]

Can anyone tell me how tough it usually is to get the old packing out? I imagine it very firmly packed after years of being compressed.

I've got the job to do, but difficult access. I think I need, ideally, a tool with a sharp screw type end, to cut into the surface and dig out the packing, but also with a narrow, strong, rigid but cranked shaft from an easily gripped (and not dropped!) handle.

I've previously read people suggest something like a corkscrew, or a self-tapping screw secured to the end of a screwdriver with heat shrink, but
a) the packing is just 5mm and the shaft prevents me from getting a proper turning tool (with my hand round it) lined up and into the 5mm gap; and
b) the challenges of my access mean (unless I can find a much smaller volunteer for the job!) I'll be doing it one handed (and over a very deep bilge, upside down and diagonally in the cockpit locker, lying on one arm and some uncomfortable lumps!).

Either a pick set(looks like a mechanics' version of dentist tools) or what amounts to a sort of flexible corkscrew made from varying sizes of curtain rod; the latter can be fitted in a battery drill for maximum excitement.

 

[snowbird30ds]

My first boat (Anderson 26) was lovely but engine and sterngear access was headfirst down the quarter berth... I replaced her sterngland with a Volvo seal, but wished I hadn't. Burping the seal required a one handed press up at full arm extension!

The radice and orbitrade ones have a vent pipe so no burping required, I'd like to go this way eventually.

 

[Tradewinds]

I recently had a boat with a PSS seal - not impressed. Wouldn't have one on my cruising yacht - prefer a traditional gland.

 

[Daydream believer]

Can anyone tell me how tough it usually is to get the old packing out? I imagine it very firmly packed after years of being compressed.
I've got the job to do, but difficult access. I think I need, ideally, a tool with a sharp screw type end, to cut into the surface and dig out the packing, but also with a narrow, strong, rigid but cranked shaft from an easily gripped (and not dropped!) handle.

You have just described a Gimlet
Carpenter's gimlet

 

[AntarcticPilot]

I'm afraid I decided that the correct tool for the job was a skilled workman!

 

[scottie]

I'm afraid I decided that the correct tool for the job was a skilled workman!

Or a packing extractor tool even see Vulcan seals

 

[LittleSister]

You have just described a Gimlet
Carpenter's gimlet

No I haven't. What I described - and am looking for - is just that, but crucially with a cranked shaft. But thanks for trying, and its useful to be reminded of the name 'gimlet', which (rather worryingly) I'd forgotten despite being familiar with it since childhood.

With a straight-shafted gimlet (and I've tried something similar), the prop-shaft stops my hand and the tool getting into the position - i.e. parallel and close to the shaft - I need to get the point into the packing.

Now, if I could find a long-shafted gimlet or something similar where I could bend the shaft, that would likely do, but I suspect they and similar tools will have hardened shafts that would snap, rather than bend. While any wire I could bend to fashion a tool would, by contrast, likely be insufficiently rigid to dig into the hardened packing.

In a more accessible location I could grab the shaft with Mole grips or similar.

 

[LittleSister]

Or a packing extractor tool even see Vulcan seals

Thank you Scottie! Just the ticket!

I had somehow completely forgotten that I discovered those tools when this problem first arose some years ago, but despite extensive searching UK and abroad no-one had in stock or could get hold of the smallest 1/8th" size, which is what I needed, though they did all have the larger models. I eventually concluded the manufacturer must have stopped making the smallest size, but I have just this minute found at least one supplier that says they now have it in stock, and will order it forthwith.

 

[LittleSister]

I'm afraid I decided that the correct tool for the job was a skilled workman!

Next to no skill is required, just (in my case) a dwarf contortionist!

 

[AntarcticPilot]

Next to no skill is required, just (in my case) a dwarf contortionist!

In my case, shifting two 100 Ah batteries to gain decent access is a factor! The days when I would lift them out without a thought are behind me, I'm afraid. Also, I have yet to find a good tool to fit the flats on the stern gland - the best I've found so far is a pair of Pump pliers, and I worry about rounding the corners with them..

 

[Daydream believer]

No I haven't. What I described - and am looking for - is just that, but crucially with a cranked shaft. But thanks for trying, and its useful to be reminded of the name 'gimlet', which (rather worryingly) I'd forgotten despite being familiar with it since childhood.

With a straight-shafted gimlet (and I've tried something similar), the prop-shaft stops my hand and the tool getting into the position - i.e. parallel and close to the shaft - I need to get the point into the packing.

One can get a gimlet with a handle more like a screwdriver, rather than a "T" handle That would allow a closer fit to the prop shaft

 

[onesea]

In my case, shifting two 100 Ah batteries to gain decent access is a factor! The days when I would lift them out without a thought are behind me, I'm afraid. Also, I have yet to find a good tool to fit the flats on the stern gland - the best I've found so far is a pair of Pump pliers, and I worry about rounding the corners with them..

For tightening mine I found a pair of these works:
Superwide Jaws Adjustable Wrench 8" (200mm) | Toolstation
Using these to stop them ending up in the bridges:
GORILLAPLANET 5 x Adjustable Hand Wrist Straps Lanyard Nylon compatible with Phone, Camera, GoPro, PSP, Flashlight, Keychains : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo

Oh and to haul out the old caulking I used a thin screw driver, no issues.

 

[Rappey]

I use a pick, very handy for removing oil seals and stern gland packing.
I found not so old graphite ones shred as you pull them (but still easy to get them out) but 40 year old ones are very easy to remove as they end up very hard and easily come out.

 

[Daydream believer]

One does not necessarily need to invest in a special spanner for a single item like this. There is a fair chance that the nut is not particularly tight as it tightens against a compressible greased material rather than a hard corroded fixture. In addition one can often only get limited access.
My solution for filters etc may work for this large nut. It comprises a 12mm bolt with a slot cut in the end with an angle grinder. One can do this easily enough at a boat yard using a pair of mole grips to hold the bolt.
Then using a piece of webbing, or the end of a decent sail tie place the 2 ends in the slot with a loop around the nut. Using a socket & ratchet handle wind the tail of the webbing round the bolt. This tightens it to the nut
Then further ratcheting should rotate the nut
here is a picture of my method I wrote for PBO for removing filters. It will work for large nuts that are not overly tight.
The advantage is that it is cheap, has 2 uses & works in a confined space

 

[Skysail]

Can anyone tell me how tough it usually is to get the old packing out? I imagine it very firmly packed after years of being compressed.

I've got the job to do, but difficult access. I think I need, ideally, a tool with a sharp screw type end, to cut into the surface and dig out the packing, but also with a narrow, strong, rigid but cranked shaft from an easily gripped (and not dropped!) handle.

I've previously read people suggest something like a corkscrew, or a self-tapping screw secured to the end of a screwdriver with heat shrink, but
a) the packing is just 5mm and the shaft prevents me from getting a proper turning tool (with my hand round it) lined up and into the 5mm gap; and
b) the challenges of my access mean (unless I can find a much smaller volunteer for the job!) I'll be doing it one handed (and over a very deep bilge, upside down and diagonally in the cockpit locker, lying on one arm and some uncomfortable lumps!).

Of course, I may be overthinking it (as usual ).





' . . . easily done . . . round the shaft in an easily accessible place'

Handy tip? Having previously struggled greatly to do this job on a shaft in a not at all easily accessible place (only to find that the packing I'd used was the wrong size, grrr!) I suggest trying to find some other shaft of the same diameter (e.g. a broom handle?) and cut your packing into rings somewhere more comfortable, convenient and better li

In my case, shifting two 100 Ah batteries to gain decent access is a factor! The days when I would lift them out without a thought are behind me, I'm afraid. Also, I have yet to find a good tool to fit the flats on the stern gland - the best I've found so far is a pair of Pump pliers, and I worry about rounding the corners with them..

We had two flat steel spanners made up by a local engineer. The handles were about 6 in long.

 

[tillergirl]

Given that we seem to be talking about changing oil filters! dare I suggest that I totally disagree with the idea of cutting the packing at 45 degrees? Stagger of course but at 45 degrees? Oh no.

 

[ianc1200]

Surely depends on size of nuts - I need two monkey/pipe wrenches about 18" long each.

 

[LittleSister]

Given that we seem to be talking about changing oil filters! dare I suggest that I totally disagree with the idea of cutting the packing at 45 degrees? Stagger of course but at 45 degrees? Oh no.

Why not, I wonder?

I don't know, but would have thought that 45 degree cut would reduce the likelihood of water traversing along the length of the gland, and better accommodate inconsistencies in ring lengths compared to the space in which they sit.

 

[tillergirl]

If cut at 45 degrees, it will be essential to precisely cut the ring to the diameter. Otherwise if the ring is slightly oversized will be lumpy, undersized will be the opposite of lumpy. It will not be easy to properly seat such a ring as the 45 degree cut will end up with a thin taper that can twist while it is inserted and will not seat evently easily. When compressed the angled cut won't slide so might be too thick or thin.

Three or four rings, squarely cut, staggered (Calder recommends at 120 degrees and soesn't comment about the angle) will seal the gland very easily. Anything else, in my view, is paranoia! But of course it is a matter of choice. I do admit though, if having fitted the gland properly, one won't get much experience over 40 years because they don't need much attention unless there is a shaft problem.

 

[ex-Gladys]

The radice and orbitrade ones have a vent pipe so no burping required, I'd like to go this way eventually.

I replaced a PSS (with breather) with the Volvo. The PSS could be knocked and let copious amounts of water in as it wasn't properly spec'd...