Colvic Watson
Well-known member
Anyone done it? Is it easy/difficult? Ours only has a few mm’s left on the adjuster, do we leave the packing in and add more or take it all out and start again?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Repacking a stern gland
- Thread starter Colvic Watson
- Start date
tillergirl
Well-known member
The only thing that was difficult was sticking my head in the bilge and my feet in the air - if you have another option - go for it!
Undo it all, rack out all the old 'tat'. Cut the packing into 3 or 4 complete circles (do it round the shaft). Insert each ring, one by one, nicely and evenly. When sufficient packing, add on the adjuster. I find it almost impossible to verbally explain how tight the adjsuter should be. Clearly the packing ought to 'grab' the shaft but it ought not be so 'grabbed' that it needs a very strong wrist to turn the shaft. A little trial is essential. I suppose the best way I can describe the tightness was 'just a little tighter than it was before (which was dripping a little too much). I would like to claim that I was able to judge exactly how tight it ought to be but the truth is I had a little turn, thought it was a little tighter than before and then waited for water and running the shaft. It turned out it was (accidently) perfect - not actually dripping at all.
Undo it all, rack out all the old 'tat'. Cut the packing into 3 or 4 complete circles (do it round the shaft). Insert each ring, one by one, nicely and evenly. When sufficient packing, add on the adjuster. I find it almost impossible to verbally explain how tight the adjsuter should be. Clearly the packing ought to 'grab' the shaft but it ought not be so 'grabbed' that it needs a very strong wrist to turn the shaft. A little trial is essential. I suppose the best way I can describe the tightness was 'just a little tighter than it was before (which was dripping a little too much). I would like to claim that I was able to judge exactly how tight it ought to be but the truth is I had a little turn, thought it was a little tighter than before and then waited for water and running the shaft. It turned out it was (accidently) perfect - not actually dripping at all.
johnalison
Well-known member
My admiration for you has gone up leaps and bounds.
onesea
Well-known member
As she said however in my case it involves diving head first over the engine, ending up with lower abdomen resting on the last cylinder of the engine (don’t wear a belt it really doesn’t help, except for rescue party retrieval). Elbows on the hull stopping you head butting the prop shaft, inserting packing and tightening with your finger tips.
When you come home with muck all over your face bruises on your stomach grazed elbows your misses asks who you lost the fight with?
The actual job as above is easy…
I might fit a cockpit hatch…
Colvic Watson
Well-known member
Thank you. Seems more possible than I thought. Does packing come in different sizes?
penfold
Well-known member
Yes; Beldam is the main UK supplier, although unless you want a whole reel you'll probably be buying through a reseller.
PeterWright
Well-known member
Hi CW,
Yes it does, measured either in eighths of an inch or mm and it comes square. To determine the correct size, measure the bore of the stuffing box then measure the shaft diameter, subtract the second measurement from the first then divide the result by 2. If you cannot get exactly the right size, don't worry - you can adjust the size by putting it on something solid and hammering it- it will get thinner in the way your hitting it and fatter in the other direction. The length you need for each turn is pi x the shaft diameter where pi = 3.14. It's best to cut the ends of the turns at 45 degrees and is easily done by putting 3 or 4 turns touching each other tightly round the shaft in an easily accessible place, then make a single cut at about 45 degrees through them all - this will give you a 3 or 4 pieces of the right length with the angled ends..
The best type of packing is mixed with ptfe and that's what most suppliers will sell you these days.
There's plenty of guidance on line such as this:
How to repack a Stern Gland - step-by-step - Practical Boat Owner
Peter.
Yes it does, measured either in eighths of an inch or mm and it comes square. To determine the correct size, measure the bore of the stuffing box then measure the shaft diameter, subtract the second measurement from the first then divide the result by 2. If you cannot get exactly the right size, don't worry - you can adjust the size by putting it on something solid and hammering it- it will get thinner in the way your hitting it and fatter in the other direction. The length you need for each turn is pi x the shaft diameter where pi = 3.14. It's best to cut the ends of the turns at 45 degrees and is easily done by putting 3 or 4 turns touching each other tightly round the shaft in an easily accessible place, then make a single cut at about 45 degrees through them all - this will give you a 3 or 4 pieces of the right length with the angled ends..
The best type of packing is mixed with ptfe and that's what most suppliers will sell you these days.
There's plenty of guidance on line such as this:
How to repack a Stern Gland - step-by-step - Practical Boat Owner
Peter.
Colvic Watson
Well-known member
Wow thank you Peter.
onesea
Well-known member
He is right, to some extent.
However plan enough time to buy some from what ever source or you will spend the season looking at your stern gland with a bigger drip than you would like thinking…
I need to fit a cockpit hatch
Long story but we made that mistake.
ex-Gladys
Well-known member
I had my tame engineer do Gladys the last time, and he did a brilliant job. For the remainder of my ownership, the drip was minimal, the gland didn't overheat, and only required a turn on the greaser (when on a trip) every couple of days. One thing TG didn't mention is to ensure that the joints of adjacent rings are staggered, rather than aligned...
penfold
Well-known member
Staggered and cut at an angle.
Plum
Well-known member
WoodyP
Well-known member
Viv Cox helped me no end. Find everything you need to know here.
Stern glands
Stern glands
snowbird30ds
Well-known member
If doing the job in the water cut your rings and a spare first so you get minimal water inrush, otherwise you will be frantically cutting while gently sinking.
Colvic Watson
Well-known member
Thanks Peter
scottie
Well-known member
And cut with razor sharp blade
ianc1200
Well-known member
When I wanted some packing ("graphite rope"?) I went to French Marine at Brightlingsea & was sent upstairs where somebody got out several different thicknesses to chose from.
LittleSister
Well-known member
Can anyone tell me how tough it usually is to get the old packing out? I imagine it very firmly packed after years of being compressed.
I've got the job to do, but difficult access. I think I need, ideally, a tool with a sharp screw type end, to cut into the surface and dig out the packing, but also with a narrow, strong, rigid but cranked shaft from an easily gripped (and not dropped!) handle.
I've previously read people suggest something like a corkscrew, or a self-tapping screw secured to the end of a screwdriver with heat shrink, but
a) the packing is just 5mm and the shaft prevents me from getting a proper turning tool (with my hand round it) lined up and into the 5mm gap; and
b) the challenges of my access mean (unless I can find a much smaller volunteer for the job!) I'll be doing it one handed (and over a very deep bilge, upside down and diagonally in the cockpit locker, lying on one arm and some uncomfortable lumps!).
Of course, I may be overthinking it (as usual
).
' . . . easily done . . . round the shaft in an easily accessible place'
Handy tip? Having previously struggled greatly to do this job on a shaft in a not at all easily accessible place (only to find that the packing I'd used was the wrong size, grrr!) I suggest trying to find some other shaft of the same diameter (e.g. a broom handle?) and cut your packing into rings somewhere more comfortable, convenient and better lit.
I've got the job to do, but difficult access. I think I need, ideally, a tool with a sharp screw type end, to cut into the surface and dig out the packing, but also with a narrow, strong, rigid but cranked shaft from an easily gripped (and not dropped!) handle.
I've previously read people suggest something like a corkscrew, or a self-tapping screw secured to the end of a screwdriver with heat shrink, but
a) the packing is just 5mm and the shaft prevents me from getting a proper turning tool (with my hand round it) lined up and into the 5mm gap; and
b) the challenges of my access mean (unless I can find a much smaller volunteer for the job!) I'll be doing it one handed (and over a very deep bilge, upside down and diagonally in the cockpit locker, lying on one arm and some uncomfortable lumps!).
Of course, I may be overthinking it (as usual
).' . . . easily done . . . round the shaft in an easily accessible place'
Handy tip? Having previously struggled greatly to do this job on a shaft in a not at all easily accessible place (only to find that the packing I'd used was the wrong size, grrr!) I suggest trying to find some other shaft of the same diameter (e.g. a broom handle?) and cut your packing into rings somewhere more comfortable, convenient and better lit.
Tranona
Well-known member
Every time I read threads like this I bless the day 25 years ago when I was persuaded to give a Volvo seal a try. Never looked back - and the latest Radice version is even better.
ex-Gladys
Well-known member
My first boat (Anderson 26) was lovely but engine and sterngear access was headfirst down the quarter berth... I replaced her sterngland with a Volvo seal, but wished I hadn't. Burping the seal required a one handed press up at full arm extension!