Practical Leopard 23 ish #1: rusty guardrail bits

tcm

...
Joined
11 Jan 2002
Messages
23,958
Location
Caribbean at the moment
Visit site
Unfortunately, my excellent idea of Practical Mangusta 108 Owner supplement has fallen on deaf ears. So here is another ramble about half-drunken DIY, rather along the lines of B1 slapping teak oil on formica which just must have taken place after closing time.

On a leopard 23, everything is nice EXCEPT it's a bit rusty around the bottom of the guard rail stanchions, which is a bit crap and needs cleaning off, even after only a few months. So, it only takes a few beers and a quiet afteroon before the toolboxes come out and a wild attempt to dismantle things and remove the cause of the rust.

I tried the back rails first, which come out as a small lump of two vertical stanchions , each attached to the top guard rail. The side ones look a bit too dificult!

It all come apart v easy, and you soon find that the naughty eyeties have slapped in the rails and THEN drilled in the hole for the horizontal wire. So the swarf is sitting at the bottom of the stanchion. Also, the bottom bit of stanchion housing sits flat on the grp, almost making a seal, so rusty water is sitting in the bottom of the stanchion housing and not draining away. So, make a nice c-washer with a gap for water to drain away and get ready to re-attach.

Then you'll find that the top rail is a bit loose, and not welded but screwed to the to each stanchion. But to tighten this up you need a socket and an extension bar about 3 feet long. Even a £49.99 halfords set of sockets won't have this. Time for a few more beers, and wait confiidently for some mad "solution" to hit you. Aha.

Get out an old sweeping brush and find a hacksaw. Gleefully put the sweeping brush in the vice as this is the first time the vice in the engineroom has come in handy. Now, saw away a bit at the top of the sweeping brush to make it square, and jam a socket on the end. Now, you have a five-foot socket driver, albeit a bit tickly at the sweeping brush end.

It only takes about half an hour of twiddling with various sockets to realise that its a 15mm nut. I wonder how they got that in there?

Twirl the sweepingbrush about to tighten it up. Listen carefully for the scruching noise as the wooden brush-ended socket wrench squishes up, and the whole lot jams. Pull out the sweeping brush, minus the sqaure end and the socket now jammed up the guard rail stanchion. Consider leaving the socket in there, but dismiss this. Bash the rail about and eventually it comes racing out, and retrive it from the bottom of marina using scuba gear. Repeat for all other stanchions around the side of the boat (later, not today).

Next week: a useful listing of every supplier of 4.35-metre-long double-sided zips in the Balearics.
 

adarcy

New member
Joined
31 Aug 2001
Messages
844
Visit site
Re: Leopard that\'s torn it

First thoughts - har har har - even on a 1.x zillion pound boat, they don't build em right
Second thoughts - oh sh*t - even on a 1.x zillion pound boat, they don't build em right so why am I doing the lotto?

Seriously though, don't they have some sort of 12 warranty? rust on a new boat OUGHT to be a problem that the biulders solve PROPERLY no matter what the level of dosh.
Anyway, v helpful story keep them coming. All experience/anecdotes useful for the future (our boat is bound to go wrong soon). What I learned is to buy a good supply of brooms and sockets or invest in scuba gear.

Anthony
 

JohnR

New member
Joined
20 Jun 2001
Messages
373
Location
Surrey, UK
Visit site
Aaaha - had a similar problem with the Aleutian. Rang 'em up and gave em hell about inferior stainless steel. Normal on new boats they said, it is the impurities caused by the welding, polish it off with metal polish and you won't see it agin because the imputies will have oxidised. I think they are right because the mounts that I have polished haven't weeped any more rust - mind you I haven't reached the end because it was a bit hot and becomed crwded so I came back to England.
 

Freebee

Well-known member
Joined
21 Oct 2001
Messages
2,258
Location
Alton, hants
Visit site
Some forms of "stainless" steel will rust if its dependant on the grade. But the so called stainless grades ie 316 will show rust if the tools used to form/cut the metal have been previously used on carbon steel first and transfer small bits to the stainless.
 

martinwoolwich

New member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
259
Location
Vancouver , BC Canada
Visit site
Re: SAme Probelem with Broom

When my Broom 38 was only 6 months old, I had exactly the same problem on the base of my stantions also around the davit bolts and on all the poppers for the canopies.

Spoke to Broom about it and they sent down two blokes the following week - Brundall to Harleyford and left them there for two days.

They took off all the stantions and cleaned out the rust (it also was the remants of swarf), and replaced all the poppers (they say it was a faulty batch). Whilst there they also fixed the few odd problems from my snagging list and fixed a few other things that I hadn't even noticed.

They did a really good job, and I was delighted with the way Broom dealt with the whole thing. A year later and still no trace of this rust coming back so the problem was obviously fixed.

Once again Broom living up to it's after sales reputation.
 
Top