Seastoke
Well-known member
Remember it will never be a Sealine.
New Project
- Thread starter Mr Googler
- Start date
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Thank f*@€ for that!???
petem
Well-known member
I think that's a reasonable compromise. Note that the trim rams can be re-built so I'm not spending too much of your cash!
How clean is the flywheel, any rust? Don't forget to put new RPM sensors in. They're cheap if you buy Bosch from a car parts place.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
No
No rust and I cleaned them. What’s the Bosch part number?
47GC
Active member
Ouch, you guys are tough!
petem
Well-known member
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Arrrrrr…….bugger
Stripped the last bits of the other engine today. Plan was just to pop the end caps off the cooler…..check for corrosion and put back together…..Or……I could snap a bolt off instead ???
this then meant having to take the core out. I don’t know what all the fuss is about. It’s wasn’t scary at all!…..NOT! ?? From the looks of it sea water was reaching the bolt and it was well rusted so a good find in my book ?
Housing is off to the machine shop to drill it out and retap. No big drama.
Full of confidence i then carried on an even removed the wiring harness completely this time!??
Stripped the last bits of the other engine today. Plan was just to pop the end caps off the cooler…..check for corrosion and put back together…..Or……I could snap a bolt off instead ???
this then meant having to take the core out. I don’t know what all the fuss is about. It’s wasn’t scary at all!…..NOT! ?? From the looks of it sea water was reaching the bolt and it was well rusted so a good find in my book ?
Housing is off to the machine shop to drill it out and retap. No big drama.
Full of confidence i then carried on an even removed the wiring harness completely this time!??
Bouba
Well-known member
Weld a nut on it
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Can’t weld
kashurst
Well-known member
edit beat me to it.
Bouba
Well-known member
There are many levels of welding skills...it doesn’t take much it get to my level
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Haven’t got a welder! ??? Did try double nut but no good. It’ll take 10 mins on a pillar drill ?
BruceK
Well-known member
No! use a stud extractor on a pneumatic impact drill.
Even without, try the stud extractor first. too many risks with drilling- when there is a given solution to this
Impact Stud Extractor Removal 1/2" Drive For 6-13mm Studs/Bolts Neilsen 5060028095827 | eBay
BruceK
Well-known member
sorry' was editing when you liked
kashurst
Well-known member
I would drill it out and helicoil it. Cut the stud flush, file it smooth, centre punch center of the bolt, drill 3mm pilot, then go up in sizes until the bolt is removed, Then drill and tap a suitable helicoil. If you can get it on a pillar drill or better a milling machine should be easy.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
To be honest chaps….I’ll be giving it to an absolutely amazing engineer who will just sort it. For the price of these things….I’m happy to thrown £50 for someone else to sort it on this occasion ???
BruceK
Well-known member
Why?! I am familiar with the stud extraction tool from my classic bike and car project days. Using that tool I never had to helicoil or go bigger stud which would not have been practical in most cases. Helicoil in aluminium brings its own host of problems most obvious of which is accelerated corrosion. I'd sooner sleeve and tap than go helicoil on anything.
vas
Well-known member
I've found heat being a decent solution to such issues. Mind, not sure with all the crap next to it but if you could clear orings and inner core, I'd defo heat the hell out of the alloy casting and use double nuts to remove it.
kashurst
Well-known member
Getting stuck/snapped bolts out of anything is often tricky. Steel in steel - with rust bunging things up usually come out with heat/penetrating oil and perseverance.
Steel stuck in aluminium has been for me always more difficult. If the bolt head has snapped off, it's well stuck. So we could persevere with heat/cold/weld a nut on/impact gripper and penetrating oils. Which may work but with the risk of damaging the aluminium casting. Once the stud/bolt comes out, the aluminium thread will not be great so it may need further work anyway. I guess you have been better at getting stuck bolts out of aluminium than me.
Or drill the old bolt out, helicoil it and it will definitely work and in a predictable time, with least risk to the aluminium part. Good point re helicoil corrosion in aluminium, but easy to solve with tefgel/loctite/various greases. As the oil cooler casting is a very expensive Volvo part, for me I would go for the certainty of helicoils.
Steel stuck in aluminium has been for me always more difficult. If the bolt head has snapped off, it's well stuck. So we could persevere with heat/cold/weld a nut on/impact gripper and penetrating oils. Which may work but with the risk of damaging the aluminium casting. Once the stud/bolt comes out, the aluminium thread will not be great so it may need further work anyway. I guess you have been better at getting stuck bolts out of aluminium than me.
Or drill the old bolt out, helicoil it and it will definitely work and in a predictable time, with least risk to the aluminium part. Good point re helicoil corrosion in aluminium, but easy to solve with tefgel/loctite/various greases. As the oil cooler casting is a very expensive Volvo part, for me I would go for the certainty of helicoils.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Or give it to a man down the road and think no more about it ???