My first boat - buying tomorrow fingers crossed (advice pls)

Isn't manual diff lock a relic of the past?

X-drive and now the newer Quattro systems electronically engage/disengage drive to individual wheels for the best grip? Or have I got it wrong? Happens in a split second. E-diff.
it's an "e-diff" (electronically switched) on the RRS and on mine it was an optional extra, but you have to put the car into the proper mode for it to activate, the different terrain modes affect how the throttle response behaves, the power output of the engine, and how the gearbox changes gear as well as locking up the diffs. If you want full power out the engine with a sensitive diff locking up at the slightest hint at wheel spin then you use "Sand Mode" it gives a real sharp response to the throttle pedal and the centre diff is locked with the rear diff locking up if needed, great fun in the snow :D, in "Rock Crawl" then you have to be in low range and have the suspension raised, it locks up all the diffs and also limits the amount of throttle response to give a more controllable drive over rough terrain. It also uses the ABS to brake which ever wheel is spinning so you have to use more power to overcome the brakes coming on to keep forward momentum, it was quite counter intuitive when I was first trying it, but it does work and it works well, I was used to the Landcruiser with manual diffs and how to operate them the RRS took a bit of relearning.
At the LRCH 20th anniversary off road event people were following me around with their cameras waiting for me to get stuck as I did not have a "proper" Landrover howeverthe car performed perfectly and coped with everything they had effortlessly, things the Defenders were struggling with the RRS just breezed through. The pic above was just after I came out of the mud swamp, I had never seen so many cameras waiting for me ... on the forth run through I deliberately let the car get stuck and oh how they cheered :)

From a few years ago: in the snow in sand mode :)
 
Last edited:
it's an "e-diff" (electronically switched) on the RRS and on mine it was an optional extra, but you have to put the car into the proper mode for it to activate, the different terrain modes affect how the throttle response behaves, the power output of the engine, and how the gearbox changes gear as well as locking up the diffs. If you want full power out the engine with a sensitive diff locking up at the slightest hint at wheel spin then you use "Sand Mode" it gives a real sharp response to the throttle pedal and the centre diff is locked with the rear diff locking up if needed, great fun in the snow :D, in "Rock Crawl" then you have to be in low range and have the suspension raised, it locks up all the diffs and also limits the amount of throttle response to give a more controllable drive over rough terrain. It also uses the ABS to brake which ever wheel is spinning so you have to use more power to overcome the brakes coming on to keep forward momentum, it was quite counter intuitive when I was first trying it, but it does work and it works well, I was used to the Landcruiser with manual diffs and how to operate them the RRS took a bit of relearning.
At the LRCH 20th anniversary off road event people were following me around with their cameras waiting for me to get stuck as I did not have a "proper" Landrover howeverthe car performed perfectly and coped with everything they had effortlessly, things the Defenders were struggling with the RRS just breezed through. The pic above was just after I came out of the mud swamp, I had never seen so many cameras waiting for me ... on the forth run through I deliberately let the car get stuck and oh how they cheered :)

From a few years ago: in the snow in sand mode :)
Fun when you get an intermittent problem with one of the wheel speed sensors....
 
it's an "e-diff" (electronically switched) on the RRS and on mine it was an optional extra, but you have to put the car into the proper mode for it to activate, the different terrain modes affect how the throttle response behaves, the power output of the engine, and how the gearbox changes gear as well as locking up the diffs. If you want full power out the engine with a sensitive diff locking up at the slightest hint at wheel spin then you use "Sand Mode" it gives a real sharp response to the throttle pedal and the centre diff is locked with the rear diff locking up if needed, great fun in the snow :D, in "Rock Crawl" then you have to be in low range and have the suspension raised, it locks up all the diffs and also limits the amount of throttle response to give a more controllable drive over rough terrain. It also uses the ABS to brake which ever wheel is spinning so you have to use more power to overcome the brakes coming on to keep forward momentum, it was quite counter intuitive when I was first trying it, but it does work and it works well, I was used to the Landcruiser with manual diffs and how to operate them the RRS took a bit of relearning.
At the LRCH 20th anniversary off road event people were following me around with their cameras waiting for me to get stuck as I did not have a "proper" Landrover howeverthe car performed perfectly and coped with everything they had effortlessly, things the Defenders were struggling with the RRS just breezed through. The pic above was just after I came out of the mud swamp, I had never seen so many cameras waiting for me ... on the forth run through I deliberately let the car get stuck and oh how they cheered :)

From a few years ago: in the snow in sand mode :)

I'm learning so much from this site ... glad I joined
 
I'm learning so much from this site ... glad I joined

Now would be a good time to start going over you boat and trailer if you have not already done so and getting it ready for the season. Greasing wheel bearings, Jocky Wheel and all those many other jobs that will need attending to. Sitting as it does things may well need freeing up and lubricating and checking to see if it all works, Charge the batter etc etc etc
 
Now would be a good time to start going over you boat and trailer if you have not already done so and getting it ready for the season. Greasing wheel bearings, Jocky Wheel and all those many other jobs that will need attending to. Sitting as it does things may well need freeing up and lubricating and checking to see if it all works, Charge the batter etc etc etc

Thanks... and yes been on my driveway since being delivered and not touched anything. Checked the battery and it works... didn't put the cover on properly and quite a bit of water got in so I used the pump and all empty now. Stereo works too.
 
the point of suggesting a lease was if you spent 15k now and the car lasted you 3 years it wouldn't cost you 15k to lease something brand new for that period as well as you having a reliable vehicle that is more than capable of towing your boat/trailer and ramp launching it where as half the other ones suggested so far have a compromise attached
 
Old ML 320 has seven seats and tows 3500 kg easily and cheaply - but these are super old now. Find a clean one for £2000 and you have a super cheap super capable off roader / towcar.... Comfy. I've had 3 now. I had the ML500 (22 mpg so not that horrendous) and ran on LPG.

If you want newer:-

GL320 / 420 - stunning car and available for £7k + And has proper diff locks and everything else off roady, seven seats, pure luxury.

Q7 good choice for "Car Like" manners and available cheaply

X5 for most Car-Like and nicest to drive, do a 7 seater, and right spec will tow 3500kg but a nice one will be more like £10k - £20k

Jeep Commander Hemi is terrible - the diesel is ok - but the Hemi will rarely hit 10mpg in the real world - its an American / Saudi car only I think!!

Range Rovers cheap and nice to drive, tow well and the benefit of getting on first name terms with your car repairer as it goes back to be repaired every day..... (had 2 - worst, most unreliable cars I have ever owned - but far from the oldest or cheapest! Always sworn I will NEVER buy another but I'm daft so may do!) Member of the family has had 4 brand new ones in less than 2 years.... 3 have been rejected and exchanged as unfit for purpose...... 5th is on order as a replacement for the last one that's been rejected after it's 10th breakdown!
 
Tony don’t spend all your money on a tow car first , get your boat on the water rent a berth for a few months , get used to it , explore the area gain trust in your boat and experience. Then decide do you want to try other areas , Yes then get a tow car , in the mean time you might have had to spend a few k on the boat .The stereo won’t get you anywhere , good luck.
 
Tony don’t spend all your money on a tow car first , get your boat on the water rent a berth for a few months , get used to it , explore the area gain trust in your boat and experience. Then decide do you want to try other areas , Yes then get a tow car , in the mean time you might have had to spend a few k on the boat .The stereo won’t get you anywhere , good luck.

if you do that you will need to antifoul the boat. Not good if it is a boat that has never been antifouled
 
If I were looking to buy one of two identical trailered boats I'd value the non-antifouled one at a higher price than the other. No choice but to suck it up on bigger boats which are more often floating than sitting on the trailer, but problem solved if using a dry stack.
 
Anyone who knows about trailered boats knows that boats that have been antifouled generally attract a much lower price than ones that have not. Once on it ain’t gonna come off nicely
 
Last edited:
Top