MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43

MikeBrazier

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Same comment as before, it wouldn't have looked that good fresh out of the factory, you could use the hull as a mirror to have a shave in front of! ��

Mike
 

vas

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thanks for all comments, transformation is really amazing, especially after 3yrs of labour staring at a messy hull. I often find myself wasting time just staring at the hull!

Vas that's quite an amazing paint job!

Those cleats look great, but just one question. Am I right in thinking that the holes in the capping above are for your pop up cleats? If so, why have both so close together?
Yep you are right, but consensus was that you can never have too many cleats. Considering Med mooring, low floating pontoon, bathing platform with tender, probably the top cleats will be used for cross bracing (wont know for sure before getting her in her mooring). Anyway got them cheap from ebay so why not. Actually fixing them is an issue that has to be sorted soon (and it aint easy!)

Vas that is amazing. She is going to look pretty stunning. Keep posting the pictures when you get time

I'm so pleased you are going to paint the area from chine down to waterline. For a few moments, when I saw the picture, I thought you might had decided to take the antifoul paint up to the chine at the bow. I'm so glad you're not doing that! :D :D (Not that I ever seriously doubted you :))
That's an insulting comment J. :p
I never ever considered something like that, all examples I've seen look wrong or bow high.

Seriously, I was actually confused myself when I saw Alekos painting only the top. He explained that the hand/body movements done in order to get this brilliant result can only work in certain area sizes (relating to his physique and size) and the chine with the need to actually have a lower thing to stand on and the overall height of over 1.5m is not feasible. Took a video of him painting the second set of top coats, explains why it wouldn't work, will upload it sometime after editing/converting.

Mind, now he has to mask the bloody lot in order to paint the bow from the chine down to the yet unknown W/L. Painting low and after the winter in the water, I'll adjust the antifoul up to the right level.

Today stbrd side was done, again result is amazing, this time took a few more pics while painting:

topcoat_8.jpg


topcoat_9.jpg


topcoat_10.jpg


topcoat_11.jpg



And this is the result:
topcoat_12.jpg


topcoat_13.jpg



BTW, got the courage to do the port side skin fittings:
  • shower
  • bow bilge pump
  • blackwater tank vent
  • diesel tanks vent
  • water tank vent
  • galley sink


look excellent (but forgot to take pics as Alekos masked the whole port side before painting)

Starting finishing off various small jobs and the amount of boxes and stuff that needs fitting is reducing making cabins look like cabins again for a change...

Real work day tomorrow, more news over the w/e

cheers

V.
 

DTIM

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thanks for all comments, transformation is really amazing, especially after 3yrs of labour staring at a messy hull. I often find myself wasting time just staring at the hull!

Vas
I don't think you are 'wasting your time', you deserve to admire your beautiful boat and the great finish after all your hard work. I cannot wait to see her afloat.
Dave
 

vas

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Great pics Vas, as everyone has said. She is looking absolutely stunning. Must be fantastic to see this after all your hard work :)

true, but increased real work load means I can hardly spend two evenings during the week and it's the w/e for boatyard work.

I'm sure I can see my own reflection from here in Torquay! ;)

OK, I think you're pushing it a bit :p

Vas, that last pic is just unbelievable, your man is a paint genius, as well as your amazing preparation.

I think it's mainly him, as he's done an awful lot of work with all this epoxy filler and filling/sanding loop. Mind it looks even better live ;)

Vas
I don't think you are 'wasting your time', you deserve to admire your beautiful boat and the great finish after all your hard work. I cannot wait to see her afloat.
Dave
true, but running out of time!

I am delighted for you Vas. Major kudos to you for hanging on in there when 99% of others would have bailed out long ago.

tbh I wasn't quite expecting ALL this work, but it's close. Was really hoping to have her on the water this summer, anyway

You can't put her back in the water now, you will risk damaging the paintwork :p

Mike.

:D

a friend that came today to have a look made the exact same comment.

I think I should limit myself to 1.5 to 2kn MAX, that should protect the paintwork :D

Vas,

Nothing I can say really .... just silent admiration for the work you're putting in here .... as for the results ... Wow !!!
thanks Alf,
hope next time you're down here you'll be able to make it to Volos

Incredible paint job Vas, it looks stunning. SWMBO doesn't believe its the same boat we saw in Volos!
I can imagine.


now, after half a week of unstable weather and a few showers, we're back in summer mode. Alekos painted in a mat charcoal grey the engine vents, portlight rings, AND today after 3h of preparation (2 of them were masking ffs!) spend 20mins painting the lower bow bit.

topcoat_14.jpg


topcoat_15.jpg



Stbrd side vents to be fitted tomorrow:

topcoat_16.jpg


port side (bar one that had a tiny prob and will be repainted together with the exhausts this week) :
topcoat_17.jpg


closeup, I issue is that unsurprisingly there are no black ss countersunk screws... I can live with that as they barely show from a distance and I want to be able to remove them easily for repairs.
Also, used TDS grey caulking that I used for my teak to seal them in place. Hope it's going to be ok (should really!)

topcoat_18.jpg


cheers

V.
 

vas

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Looking good Vas

Remind me what finish you are proposing for the wood on topsides?

topcoat_17.jpg

Suggestion was to lacquer it, problem is I hate lacquer (not per se, but the repeated effort of scraping, sanding and redoing every year)
Ideally raw, however doesn't look like iroko is happy with that, so looks like another sanding with 80 and then 120 grit and then a few coats of good quality teak oil. Will be definitely darker than what it is currently.

That finish is unbelievable, can't wait to see the water reflection on her.
me too!

OK ppl, two more issue!

Did the stbrd side engine vents and temp bolted the two portlights for the stbrd cabin (that's daughter's cabin)

topcoat_19.jpg


Then bolted (temporarily) the anthracite mat ring outside.
Now end result looks carp (unsurprisingly...)


topcoat_20.jpg


topcoat_21.jpg


Bearing in mind that most of the portlights have some degree of pitting on the "tube" from the glazing to the hull, it does make sense to pass them over to Alekos for some treatment and painting at the same anthracite (just the tube)
Inside can remain anodized alloy which is generally in excellent nick except for the brass/chrome plated accessories which I'm removing for replating (as I did with the light fittings couple of years ago)
Mind the one on the left of the pic has the "window" and blind closed, the one on the right has them open. Blind is a plane sheet of anodized alloy so looks whitish from outside.

I guess we'd all agree that the portlights part visible from outside should be the same tone of anthracite grey.

So a bit of extra work for Alekos (and for me disassembling ten portlights!)

Second issue is that Alekos finds the shiny ss bolts too much and wants to drop a blob of paint on each one :eek:
Do I stand any chance of getting black anodized (IIRC) 3.5X40 or 3.5X30 countersunk screws? Haven't found any in the local market!

ah, fwiw, Alekos managed to prime the sliding doors area (bulkhead plus superstructure sides at the aft deck) and unfortunately managed to get some primer haze on my xperia zr (which was 3m lower by the sea while I was scraping primer and a few coats of a/f off the trim tabs...)
Not had much luck removing the tiny dots of primer off the screen, will try again tomorrow

Window man is coming tomorrow morning to take a mock for the slope of the fixed parts of the sliding doors in order to assemble them.


cheers

V
 
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Divemaster1

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Suggestion was to lacquer it, problem is I hate lacquer (not per se, but the repeated effort of scraping, sanding and redoing every year)
Ideally raw, however doesn't look like iroko is happy with that, so looks like another sanding with 80 and then 120 grit and then a few coats of good quality teak oil. Will be definitely darker than what it is currently....

Ok... how about doing it properly....

Qwatrol D1 (oil) ... wet on wet until wood does not take on any more... ( 5 + coats)....

Wait 24 hrs +

Owatrol D2 (oil based with hard glossy surface that is flexible oil underneath).... probably 3 - 5 coats ... and will last for a considerable time...

Theory goes.... oil disperses water from underneath and thus does not crack... did my davits etc a couple of years back and still is going strong with a nice surface... will do the aft bench this coming spring...

DSC_0116_zps633fc822.jpg


A lot of work in prep, but you have the weather, virgin wood and if on-shore for a while longer will be worth it...

The last coat of D2 can be mixed with epoxy if you really need a hard wearing surface...

Once you have the nice shiny D2 deep surface, all you need is a new thin coat once a year.... should take an hour or so for you...
 
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KevB

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Hi Vas,

I am gobsmacked at how well it looks painted. All the effort with filling and sanding has certainly paid off.

Re your shinny screws/bolts, can't you heat them up and drop them in some old diesel oil for a nice deep blue colour?
 
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