KevB
Active member
Thanks for the update Vas. Looking very good.
In case of any use, the tiles in the pic below are 20x20 bisazza in a mix called "Iside" with about 20 white gold tiles added. You can get other colour mixes of course, eg lighter greys. They are made of glass but they are opaque and as easy to cut as ceramic tiles, and easier than porcelain. Ceramic and porcelain tiles have vitreous glazing of course, so the wet surface is going to be glass whatever you buy. To get the right look it is crucial to get the right grout colour, often not white.I have been trying to source some tiles like that in the UK, only with greys and perhaps silvers, very difficult and no wish to use glass tiles which seem to be all I can get.
Mike.
.........The other 2h worth of work on Saturday are managing to fit the door frame on the heads. That's a surprising difficult task, with wedges, hammers, levers, swearing (of course!). Does look good though:
Thanks for the update Vas, brilliant.
I have been trying to source some tiles like that in the UK, only with greys and perhaps silvers, very difficult and no wish to use glass tiles which seem to be all I can get.
Mike.
Looking amazing Vas. Huge admiration for you here in getting to this stage.
The iroko rail is tricky isn't it? What about keeping the bare iroko on the top/horizontal/deck surface, but painting the sides that you see when you look at the boat in profile? Then attach a s/steel trim strip/fender strip along the top of the sides, to cover the interface between painted iroko and oiled iroko?
All looking very good Vas !!...
One small point on the door frame (and you won't like me for it ... );
Would it not look better if the joint was at the loser level and not up at head / eye level ?? ... Mine are very similar to this (if not exactly) and installed with join at the bottom ... and yes, they are a right pain to install when into a tight wall... but there is a knack to it .... Slight twist and tilt to get top part installed ... (or in your case bottom.... another reason to do it the other way ) ... slide and use wooden batton when knocking the top & corners in... followed by one of the sides into near full position ... then next side pulled over bottom part of other side and push as far as you can with hands, and use screwdriver as a wedge to slide last part of joint in at bottom, whilst keeping other side in forcefully...
... once top was in correctly and one of the sides slid in place with other overlapping at bottom (small piece of wood inserted to avoid scratching, I used a slightly over-sized piece of wood as a distance wedge and knocked it downwards step-by-step to ensure sides slid in correctly and only towards the end did I use screwdriver as wedge for the last lift and slot into place...
Worth noting that the original boats were very white.....
Think you will find that the boat in the picture is a copy of Mitos .... Produced by JCL on license from Versilcraft ..
Whilst white, the logo they (or at least some of them) carried was more discrete than the one JCL's carried...
Worth noting that the original boats were very white....
Yours will look great, particularly if you add a MYSTERE logo and nav light as per the original design. Can you get decals made up in Greece? There are a couple of companies in the UK that can do this for a reasonable price.
Think you will find that the boat in the picture is a copy of Mitos .... Produced by JCL on license from Versilcraft ..
Whilst white, the logo they (or at least some of them) carried was more discrete than the one JCL's carried...
Yep, started sanding the top of the toerail iroko and it looks great, keen on seeing the handrails back in place.Vas, Looking absolutely superb.
I now get the charcoal vents and the porthole surrounds. Once the wood is varnished/oiled it will look stunning, you might find the white will dull down a little after a few months and not look as severe as it is now in your view.
I think she will look really quite something cutting through the water.
Internal furniture looks great and you are going to have retro classic with all mod conveniences at the end of this.
Did you say that you have to now re-attach the P brackets?
Can't wait for the next instalments.
Vas, you really impress me. Such a commitment, such perseverance! Not only would I lack of those two virtues, but I would also fail because of my lack of manual skills! I think this is the thread I read the most in this forum and I am really looking forward to the launch, which is within reach.
We will cruise in Greece the next 2-3 years, certainly passing near Volos, and I hope we'll be able to share a Ouzo or our Slivovic with a toast on you!
V, aesthetic might be the reason. I've seen a few swim platforms retrofitted on traditionally shaped sterns like yours, both with the external border following the same curvature of the stern, and with a more square-ish design.Quick sketch shows that a good size for the bathing platform is 1.3m (at the centre, obviously 1.5m on the edges unless I decide on a curved ending which I find no reason for)
Looking very very nice Vas. I love the black headlining over the helm. Much respect to you
Purely as light relief (rather than big thread drift) here is a pic I thought you would enjoy, having done some mosaic tiling. This is a boat moored in Antibes. The guy just didn't think it through before starting to stick the tiles - indeed he didn't think it through on any level really. I wanted to shout "kingplank" to him as he worked his way across the foredeck. The black mat right at the bow hides a very dodgy "interface"! Anyway, he has the same enthusiasm for boat refitting as you at least so for that must be applauded