MBY boat cleaning article

[CMJ]

ref Magic Sponges - it's interesting what Nick H says about abrasion - assuming that's correct then I guess I thought they were a bit too magic as found them seemingly perfect the other day for removing dirty hose marks from the GRP.

I should get into the habit of using my own non-marking hose I guess as the boat often gets covered in rub marks from the pontoon hose. Normally (as the boat's A-Glazed) I use the pink surface prep to remove the mark then dab on a bit of the sealant afterwards, so when the magic sponge made unbelievable light work of it, I spent the next few days thinking they really were magic!

No worries though as I'm about to A-Glaze the whole boat again......just need to then resist using the magic sponge after that again - might be too tempting as it was so good!

 

[jfm]

I too am a big fan of A Glaze for GRP and glass, any 2 part (Wessex or another) for occasional teak deck cleaning, and soap for regular deck cleans in between 2-parting

 

[Nick_H]

ref Magic Sponges - it's interesting what Nick H says about abrasion - assuming that's correct then I guess I thought they were a bit too magic as found them seemingly perfect the other day for removing dirty hose marks from the GRP.

I should get into the habit of using my own non-marking hose I guess as the boat often gets covered in rub marks from the pontoon hose. Normally (as the boat's A-Glazed) I use the pink surface prep to remove the mark then dab on a bit of the sealant afterwards, so when the magic sponge made unbelievable light work of it, I spent the next few days thinking they really were magic!

No worries though as I'm about to A-Glaze the whole boat again......just need to then resist using the magic sponge after that again - might be too tempting as it was so good!

Yep, magic sponge works 100% on abrasion, no chemical action at all, so its like removing stains with a very fine sandpaper. The reason they're so effective is that as the structure of the foam breaks down, the abrasive surface can get into the nooks and crannies of the surface you're cleaning at a microscopic level, whereas sandpaper would only rub the tops off.

Its definitely not a good idea to use magic sponges on waxed or coated surfaces unless you plan to re-coat them afterwards, but that's equally true of degreasers.

 

[Sulley]

I generally use the magic sponges on my cockpit seating it cleans the vinyl well, getting the dirt out of the grain. Also good for getting any interior marks off especially on walls and headlining.

If it's used on GRP it gets a coating of polish afterwards. They are good at getting stuborn marks off GRP but it is like a very fine sandpaper.

 

[U4]

Not sure if anyone has said this yet but clean a little and often!!!

 

[Sulley]

I like that! SWMBO has threatened to name the next boat "Cleaning in Progress" as that's all that seems to ever be happening!

Of course we do go out as well!!!

 

[Jack Haines]

I like that! SWMBO has threatened to name the next boat "Cleaning in Progress" as that's all that seems to ever be happening!

Of course we do go out as well!!!

Thanks again for all of the responses guys, there's some really good stuff here.

Cheers,

Jack

 

[paultallett]

I like that! SWMBO has threatened to name the next boat "Cleaning in Progress" as that's all that seems to ever be happening!

Of course we do go out as well!!!

Snap..... and I thought I was the only one with OCD!!

 

[Warpa]

Meguiars all purpose cleaner used to be my interior choice, followed by Chemical Guys interior finish. Surfex by Built Hamber is now my APC (all purpose cleaner) of choice, neat it will dissolve oil and grease, diluted it will still clean most things without removing your wax coat (3:1)


After trying more polishes, pads and machines than i can shake a stick at i have found the Flex rotary is the imo best rotary on the market, using 3M pads and 3M polishes. The 3M fast cut with lambswool pad will remove 2000 grit sanding marks, so will shift any oxidation, it also leaves such a refined finish that further refining with the machine is not needed.

I have also swapped my Collinite waxes and am experimenting with the 3M paste wax, 1st impressions are looking very good!

Glass is cleaned with Meguiars glass cleaner, metals polished with Britemax heavy duty metal polish, sealed with Jetseal 109 and waxed over with Colli or 3M, leg is also sealed and waxed the same way

OCD, Me? maybe

 

[Warpa]

For plastic seats and dinghy = Pro marine rib shine and magic erasor sponges (cheap as chips on ebay)

For general GRP cleaning = Cheapest bilogical washing powder in a bucket of water with cheap halfords car wash. Better than anything else I've tried and I've tried most of the 'marine' washing rubbish

cutting/Polishing = Aqua Buff 2000

waxing = Autoglym super resin polish

Teak decks = wessex

No protection in that stuff at all, its a very very fine cutting polish with fillers to hide swirls, need a wax if you want a protective coat

 

[Bojangles]

Quote "After trying more polishes, pads and machines than i can shake a stick at i have found the Flex rotary is the imo best rotary on the market, using 3M pads and 3M polishes. The 3M fast cut with lambswool pad will remove 2000 grit sanding marks, so will shift any oxidation, it also leaves such a refined finish that further refining with the machine is not needed."

Warpa, you look to be the master at this polishing lark, well done on the reflections (I can see we have the same Bosch torch and Nissan pick up!) does the machine you use have an oscillating action or just rotary? I ask as I have a festool polisher/sander which should be up to the job (we use for polishing/sanding corian and other solid surface worktops) but I'm not sure which speed/action is best? Also where's the best place for the 3m products?

 

[Warpa]

The Festool is the other leading rotary on the market. Not sure how your sander compares to the rotary but will look when I'm on the pc and not on this mobile. 1500 rpm is about the max rpm for rotary (which mine is, builds heat up quicker than the orbital)

Some start at 900 rpm to spread the polish, speed up to 1500 to work it, then back down to 900 when the polish is nearly clear. That's speeds 1-3 on the Flec. I get most of my kit from clean your car http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/3m/brand_2.html

 

[grumpy_o_g]

It would be good to hear any don'ts as well - the "don't use Persil on Stainless Steel as it contains formaldehyde and it will react with the zinc in it to give off large quantities of Radon Gas" or "don't use anything containing zumbo solids on GRP as you will get a bright green stain" type of thing.

 

[Firefly625]

Snap..... and I thought I was the only one with OCD!!

oh no Paul, there's a load of OCD cleaning folk on here! I'm certainly a fee paying member...

 

[Firefly625]

Not sure if anyone has said this yet but clean a little and often!!!

spot on there,

I'm not going to look back on all the post to see if this has been gone through, but here's what I do;

winter lift out, i.e. about now with boat out the water I polish the entire boat with a machine mop and farcela head. Topsides included. I also use smaller concept pads for a lot of the work, http://www.autojoy.co.uk/buffing-polishing-backing-plate-hook-loop-14mm-p-391.html along with these http://www.autojoy.co.uk/buffing-polishing-concept-white-fast-compounding-foam-80mm-p-284.html especially on my blue band around the hull these work great. I use a 3m finishing compound on the hull as it has no oxidisation and just requires a light polish and sealing, same as topsides. Then I apply Auto Glym super resin polish to seal it all in. This year I also have got from our workshop autoglym supplier a quantity of lifeshine gloss protectant which I intend to use on the blue band around the hull, a couple of coats should seal this all in.

So boat shiny and lovely is dropped in the water and without fail everytime I use the boat I immediately wash the boat off with fresh water and dry (yes, I pretend its a car) with my already mentioned Flunkey http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002ZP2AEM/ref=asc_df_B002ZP2AEM6084411?smid=A3F3MRLZKKJ6Y6&tag=kelkoomp-auto-delta-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B002ZP2AEM . If the boat has sustanained any muddy feet / anchoring debris etc that means the boat actually needs a proper wash, that will mean a bucket of autoglym wash & wax and a sponge and scrubbing brush, any grime diffult to shift will get a squirt of cillit bang grime and lime and a scrub. Microfibe cloths and rainx window cleaner http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/rain-x/weatherbeater-2-in-1-glass-cleaner-and-rain-repellent.aspx cleans the windows. I do also rinse the hull with fresh water after using the boat. Transom after a long run will obviously get a little sooty so that is also washed with wash & wax. Then a couple of times during the year I polish topsides to maintain a good shine and this just helps to make cleaning the boat easier as the dirt and grime & fawley fallout that Hamble marinas suffer from does just wash off...

Canvas cover I use a jet wash to get rid of any green at the start of the seaon, I seal it with fabsail canvas waterproofer and then clean the acrylic windows with mer http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004UQV8BA/ref=asc_df_B004UQV8BA6113218?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=shopdc44392-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B004UQV8BA or Autosmart Stardust which is a great product http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autosmart-Stardust-Instant-Polish-Dressing-Car-Valeting-/300447653444?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item45f4135e44#ht_1812wt_956, again this we buy in the tray full for our business so always have a can on board and is a really good product. Good for woodwork as well..

there, told you I was OCD, but my Hardy is now 11 years old IMO doesn't look it!

 

[Sulley]

If I was going to get an electric polisher what would people recommend? I don't really want to spend more than £100!! I know there are really good ones out there but they are too expensive at £300 odd.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-machines/cat_68.html

Any recomendations here?

thanks

 

[Warpa]

I have used the Silverline one and now have a Flex at more than 10x the price. They will all do what you want, all that really changes is the weight and the noise. When i had the Silverline it did what i wanted it to do, was just too heavy to hold on the side of a boat all day.

Obviuosly get the best you can afford unless you can find a 2nd had one. The clean your car rotary is a good machine that a lot of diy car detailers use.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=208333

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polis...ar-ep800-compact-rotary-polisher/cat_100.html

That with a set of 3M pads and a 3M lambsool pad along with the 3M perfect it polishes you will be well on your way The 3M polishes have colour coded lids to go with their pads.

Be sure to google using a rotary and watch all you can on youtube before playing with one for the 1st time

 

[Sulley]

Hi Warpa,

Thanks for the information, I think I will bite the bullet and buy one! I will also make sure I watch some more videos before I take it to the GRP on my precious boat!

Sulley

 

[dodgey rascal]

I have just spent a couple of hours with T-Cut (automotive) doing the side of my boat that was heavily oxidised - it came up quite well Only trouble is you can really see the scratches now

 

[Sulley]

A-Glaze

I purchased an A-Glaze kit at the boat show and tried it on my boat this weekend. All I can say is wow!! It removed marks I couln't get off before and the shine is amazing, well worth the money.