MBY boat cleaning article

[Jack Haines]

Hello everybody,

Happy New Year and all the best for 2012.

I am working on an article about boat cleaning for the April 2012 issue of MBY. I thought it might be nice to have a sort of 'reader's tips' section where I can include some of your boat cleaning tactics. So if you have a particularly good way of cleaning teak/GRP/stainless etc then please let me know and the same goes for if you swear by a particular product.

Please post here, PM me or send an email to: jack_haines@ipcmedia.com

If you do send me something could you please include a hi-res image of your boat so we all know who to thank for the golden tip!

Many thanks for any help,

Jack

 

[gjgm]

Tactics are pretty simple. SWMBO gets the cleaning gear out, and I wander off to discuss the complex navigation I have just undertaken from Port Hamble.
Having ensured she is provided with all the finest tools and bottles every Xmas, I am assured of stupendous results.
I swear by SWMBO.

 

[DAKA]

Dirty dinghies

http://www.concordextra.com/product/999/Household/FAIRY+POWER+SPRAY+375ML/


Dirty white covers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dettol-An...omeGarden_CLV_Cleaning_CA&hash=item484116ddbd


Both knock spots off anything I have been ripped off for in the swindlers, and the best bit simply spray on, leave for 20 mins and rinse off

Been using both products for over 7 years without any adverse side effects.

 

[Firefly625]

non-slip GRP decks and cockpits... and anything else, I still think

http://www.tesco.com/groceries/Product/Details/?id=262419749

knocks spots off any marine product... and blooming cheap and I have checked, it doesn't rot grp or rubber, stainless etc. best to use gloves though!


got to say Daka, your recommendation for Fairy Power spray is interesting, I have not used that but will buy a bottle, I imagine that would be good.

The best hardware I have for a cleaning job on the boat is..

http://direct.tesco.com/q/R.206-9589.aspx

I wouldn't own a boat without one....

what a sad case I am...

 

[Jack Haines]

Thanks guys, this is all great stuff - keep it coming!

Cheers,

Jack

 

[DAKA]

Before setting off on a long passage (100-150nm) use a sponge to 'paint' the stern and exhaust outlets with neat 'any car wash and wax'.

If it turns out rough the black soot that sometimes accumulates on the stern will rinse straight off.

 

[Firefly625]

Oh I know... also Micro fibre cloths... how on earth did we survive without them... a must for polishing etc. makes the job so much easier and a far better finish. Can be washed and will be like new. Great for glass cleaning as well.

http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Giant_High_Performance_Microfibre_Cleaning_Drying_Towel__696.html

A lot of people use them to dry as well, but I am still a massive fan of the Flunkey and again this is a MUST for all boat owners. I have circa 5 on the boat at any one time.... plus another 5+ at home for the car etc! To be honest even my best man at my wedding mentioned that I am rarely without a Flunkey.... oh dear! But I'm sorry, they beat a genuine chamois leather hands down, and those people who argue maybe are thinking of a nasty cheap synthetic leather, this isn't one of those, I would recommend everyone has one (or 5) on a boat, for marine work they are a must....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Flunky-Ultimate-Synthetic-Chamios-Leather/dp/B002ZP2AEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325776177&sr=8-1

 

[tico]

I keep a copy of the gospel according to Matts/Tcm on cleaning teak if it's any use?

 

[Firefly625]

I keep a copy of the gospel according to Matts/Tcm on cleaning teak if it's any use?

I remember that, and it is a good night time read!

 

[Trundlebug]

After spending hours polishing (i.e. cutting then several coats of wax) the hull sides in the spring, I'm always wary of any chemicals I use on the decks through the season because many of them will wash off the wax on the sides as well.

Invariably I've found that for cleaning the decks, plain old fresh water from the hose, with a suitable soft or hard deck brush, or a microfibre cloth cleans them fine. Especially if it's done regularly, although I must admit I never do it as often as I should.

I use the soft brush and the hose on the hull sides. When it won't come clean that way, I know it needs waxing again... I've used all kinds of automotive and marine polishes but they all seem to last a similar length of time, so tend to use 2 coats of Autoglym super resin polish, with Autoglym super gloss protection on top. I do this about 2-3 times a year.

For stubborn stains or difficult bits on the decks, car wash and wax works OK (and it doesn't harm the wax on the hull) or localised stronger chemicals such as Y10 (oxalic acid) wiped then washed off with copious water.

I use Autoglym Fast Glass on the windows, it's fast, easy and very effective.
If I have more time I use better quality window cleaner (smells and works like windolene...)

Sometimes have to use an old toothbrush to clean around the stanchion bases, cleats and rubbing strip crevices.

Our bathing platform is varnished teak, which needs recoating every season. Currently coated with Deks Olje D1 and D2. OK but doesn't last long enough

 

[Jack Haines]

After spending hours polishing (i.e. cutting then several coats of wax) the hull sides in the spring, I'm always wary of any chemicals I use on the decks through the season because many of them will wash off the wax on the sides as well.

Invariably I've found that for cleaning the decks, plain old fresh water from the hose, with a suitable soft or hard deck brush, or a microfibre cloth cleans them fine. Especially if it's done regularly, although I must admit I never do it as often as I should.

I use the soft brush and the hose on the hull sides. When it won't come clean that way, I know it needs waxing again... I've used all kinds of automotive and marine polishes but they all seem to last a similar length of time, so tend to use 2 coats of Autoglym super resin polish, with Autoglym super gloss protection on top. I do this about 2-3 times a year.

For stubborn stains or difficult bits on the decks, car wash and wax works OK (and it doesn't harm the wax on the hull) or localised stronger chemicals such as Y10 (oxalic acid) wiped then washed off with copious water.

I use Autoglym Fast Glass on the windows, it's fast, easy and very effective.
If I have more time I use better quality window cleaner (smells and works like windolene...)

Sometimes have to use an old toothbrush to clean around the stanchion bases, cleats and rubbing strip crevices.

Our bathing platform is varnished teak, which needs recoating every season. Currently coated with Deks Olje D1 and D2. OK but doesn't last long enough

Thanks for this, much appreciated.

Jack

 

[Bandit]

I got fed up or regular teak cleaning and I believe it to be wearing away the teak, of which mine is unfotunately a veneer and is starting to get a bit thin.

Now using Skippers Choice twice a year to clean it and also Boracol as a preservative to keep it clean and free of slime and mould. It works well.

 

[Who]

Teak cleaner:
http://www.teakcleaner.co.uk/
Works really well, gets out so much dirt.

Vinyl seats:
The ONLY thing to use is Magic sponges.
Instantly takes out I ground dirt. Best used with a little washing up liquid and just water.
The best cleaning product I have ever come across.
Buy them in bulk from a well known auction site.
They do break up and you will go through a few, but they work so well on almost any surface. Great for cleaning the shower as well.

 

[rafiki_]

I recently discovered Aldi Caravan Cleaner at £2.99 a litre bottle. Fantastic stuff and recommended through the PBO Forum.

 

[benjenbav]

I keep a copy of the gospel according to Matts/Tcm on cleaning teak if it's any use?

That should definitely be included in any published article.

 

[andy59]

The only cloth you will ever need , http://www.onestopcleaningshop.co.uk/36-x-36-pre-washed-scrim-cloth.html
For drying off after washing / hosing off - clearing condensation - wiping off overnight dew etc etc , works from dry and better results than any chamois .

 

[Rum_Pirate]

Every few months I pour a teaspoon of washing up liquid in my bilge and add five - ten gallons of sea water.
Will use fresh water, if I am alongside Reggae' Beach Bar's dock at Cockleshell Bay then go for a short run.

The bilge pumps empty it.

Rainwater, dirt etc always seems to find a way in, plus there is also some grease/oil /gasoline that splashed up on inaccessible locations following a leak in the fuel tank.

Ideally it should be an eco-friendly make, but there aren't any currently available on island.

 

[Jack Haines]

Thanks a lot for all of the responses guys - much appreciated and it's all great stuff.

Cheers,

Jack

 

[tico]

tcm's guide to teak Pt1

You'll sometimes see brand-new looking decks at some boat shows that are actually selling secondhand boats. Your teak deck can look like that again. Here’s how to do it.

My own background is having swankyish boats in the med, built/maintained three teak patios outside houses one of them 200 square metres, employed various “experts” and skippers, and spent £hundreds on all sorts of jetwashers, brushes, gizmos, and chemicals.

1. First decide if you want you teak to look like teak - or teak covered with something else. Everyone can tell if it's oiled, or if it's got protective finishes on, and so can everyone else. It looks a bit yellowish, uniform, plastic and non-natural - and it's actually not as grippy as natutral teak. There's also fake teak, which some boat builders can tell you is actually twice the price of real teak. But we humans are very good at identifying real and synthetic materials even from a good distance away. Teak should look like raw teak – just a like new boat at the boat show. Any teak can look like that again.

2. Firstly, the chemicals. You need two-part cleaner which can be obtained from Wessex Chemicals. I haven’t found anyone else who does the right stuff, althou othes have better names than er “2-part teak cleaner” which is what they call it.

You get this in 1-litre or 5-litre or 10litre plastic containers, a few quid a litre. Expect to use around 3/4 litre of each for a biggish 60foot boat at each clean. If you buy in bulk, mark the containers "part 1" and "Part2” clearly as the coloured dye can go off after year and yer can't easily tell which is which. Incidentally, the part two in concentrated form removes rust stains, which is handy, but make sure you rinse it afterwards.

3. Now , the kit: NO BRUSHES, NO JETWASHERS. You need the mildest possible way of swooshing around the boat, and on new teak this means a sponge. But a sponge on a stick, so a Vileda floor mop thing that squeezes out is excellent. For outside teak tho, esp teak which is a bit “ridgy”, the floor mop will get destroyed and stick on the ridges. The Surehold range or similar is good - you get a long stick and put attachements onnit , red handle – that’;s the one, and get the flat attachment to which you can stick on a pad that looks like a panscrub. You want the very mildest one, a white one that is soft enuf to wash your face with - only just not a sponge, not as severe as a loofah. Plonk this on the flat face of the attachment.

Okay, look you MIGHT need a brush if you teak is very heavily knackered and this is the first clean for years and years. A brush will get into the ridges - but digs out the softer material at the same time. So use a soft brush if you really must. But non-ancient boat or teack under five years old - no brush.

Oh, and you need a hose too, hopefully with a decent end attachment. Actually just a bare end is ok so the water “drops” out: it’s important NOT to have it on a “blast” setting like the cheapest hose ends – better ones have 6 options, and for teak you shd only use the setting for what feels like “rain”.

3. Cleaning even a colossal floor takes minutes, not hours. Get everything out of the area, tables chairs etc so no water goes on anything cept the teak. Screw-down tables need to be out as well. Hoover dusty inside areas if necessary.

Then wet the area with water from hose NOT blasting, just dribble about with the hose set to “gentle rain”.

Now, the key thing is that you need this to take a short amount of time - so hands and knees is hopeless as you will never do it more than once - an effective AND quick clean is what we want. I saw one guy cleaning the deck with toothbrush! – not for us I’m afraid.

4. Mix a mild dilution of Part 1 in a bucket and wipe it on to the teak with that floorpad mop thing. “5 water to 1 chemical” is the most severe you shd use ever on mossy greenish teak, but try 10water to 1chemical to start if it's just greyish.

The teak will go very dark almost immediately, the colour of mahogany or even very very strong coffee. Urgh! – a bit worrying! And the spashes on the bits you haven’t done – they’re just as bad! Don’t worry.

Keep putting the solution on, and agitate the stuff over the teak, across the grain. Use that floor mop to sloosh it around, always acros the grain gently, with the soft spongy pad.

As it goes dark, there's a tendency to not bother rubbing everywhere cos it’s “doing something” but you do need to "apply" it to the wood with the sponge/mop thing, not just rinse over. At the edges, use a mild handheld green plastic panscrub – again, not one too rough to wipe your face with – to get the edges – otherwise we won’t have the “new” look as the middle will be clean, the edges murky.

Saftey warning: SLIPPERY with Part1 :the teak loses a LOT of it’s anti-slip properties with this part 1 on so be careful and keep kids and the unwary away. On an open a sailing boat deck, be especially careful as you move around – and with the next stage too. But when finished it’s back to normal, of course.

5. Pretty much as soon as the diluted part 1 has been put on everywhere and gone worryingly dark brown, it's done the business. So once it is all uniformly wet and dark, rinse the area, and tons of brown gunk will come off, often quite a shocking amount. But imagine how filthy your car would be if you left it unwashed, just rinsed a bit now and again, for a year or more. You need it all this off. I use a rubber window wiping blade on a stick to swoosh it all out. Again, don't blast with water - use low pressure and lots of it.

6. Now the part two, the red stuff. Again , mild solution. 10water to one P2 on wet teak after part 1. This is worrying to put on cos it bleaches back the colour, and even the bucket seems to leave a mark. Argh! Again, don't worry - it will all come back bright as the bleachiness goes all over. Not much skil needed - provided you stay at a mild dilution, you can't put "too much" on - it returns to it's natural colour, so it won't go white or anything like that.

Another warning: this is a mild acid, so it will sting cuts in unprotected hands and feet. But your hands and feet don’t drop off, or at least mine haven’t been damaged anyway and I’ve done this a fair bit.

On big patios or on the pontoon (yep, you have to clean the pontoon too soon, see below) I use a garden watering can and a rose to sploosh it on. The part 1 get’s the gunk off – this seems to hardly lift any more dirt, just turn back the colour. You do need to rinse off the part 2 though.

If you missed an area with p1, it'll be silvery grey after p2, so yerd have to start again –or praps leave it til next time.

 

[tico]

tcm's guide to teak Pt2

You need to carefully rinse metal items around on the floor – stainless or aluminium won’t get horribly damaged provided you get the stuff off during the rinsing so target these especially.

I wipe with a “blade” (like a windscreen wiper) to speed up the drying process, and get the dirt off without needing tons and tons of water.

Walking on the now-clean teak whilst it's drying means you lose the "utterly fab clean new-boat" look, but clean footmarks do evaporate so it's ok, ish.

Now, the teak looks brand new when it dries. Hurrah! Is it clean tho? Get a white tissue and wet it, wipe on a bit of the teak, and the tissue will remain white clean. It's clean enough to eat food from.

7. Soon the teak will get filthy and go silvery grey again. Why's that? Well it's cos of the rain, or the air or (mostly) cos you or the crew did it with your feet. In the med, big boats are "no shoes" - you step aboard in bare feet, not deck shoes, not socks, but Bare Feet, even if you charter the boat and pay a zillion pounds a week. All those swanky boats , look at the pics closely and none are wearing shoes. Ok, on some they ARE wearing shoes, but they are either deck pumps (that always stay on the clean deck) or nitwits.

8. To keep the deck clean, I'm afraid that you need to try a bit harder than you are doing. You have a deck that is utterly clean and visibly so, like white carpet. But the pontoon is filthy. It's like having muddy garden path and muddy driveway, and white carpet indoors. You need to instigate a regime to limit the dirt arriving on board.

Clean the pontoon where you step aboard for a start, using 2-part teak cleaner again, and this time use a brush cos it will be filthy, it’s already ridged, and erm, it’s not your expensive boat.

If the quayside of you normal berth is concrete, clean and then paint it with garage floor paint. Put a mat down on the quayside for changing shoes. The mat will fly away in high wind so make sure you have spare mats and take it up before a gale. I lose about one mat per year, mebbe two. If you can't be shoes-off on board the boat cos in the uk it's cold, have one pair of shoes for schlepping over to the car park etc. and dedicated shoes on board that are only for on board, never ashore.

9. Knackered ridgy teak. Teak feels as hard as nails – dense and unyielding- but is actually quite susceptible to being washed away, perhaps like very weak concrete.

To keep it from disintgrating, you need to never clean it and never wash it, and never step on it and keep it covered ! - but this aint possible on a boat. A winter cover (over the whiole boat or at least over the teak) makes it last longer. If you have bare teak indoors perhaps in a wheelhouse, and also outdoors on the deck, you'll see how the indoor stuff stays new and flat and not-ridgy for much longer. The rain does this – it’s a moderate jetwash that happens lots of times per year. So, if you had a cover, or individual covers for bits of the deck, your teak won't go ridgy anywhere near as quickly. The cover needs to allow air to circulate to stop it going mouldy a bit, but never with rain landing on it. Le Grand Bleue is Abramovich’s ugly ship with loads of playtime boats incl a big 70 foot powerboat - and the first such boat (Sirius) had individual canvas /Sunbrella covers for the teak held down with poppers when owners aren’t on board - and the teak is lovely, even after a several years.

10. Sanding the teak. Yeah, well, you need a machine to do this, and make it flat. Easy to decsribe, hard to do and makes a right mess. Once the teak is flat, you can make it smooth with finer and finer sanding, tho it will be slippery if you go on too long. It will need sanding eventually. Be very very careful with a beltsander cos it will eat a lot of material very quickly: much safer is an orbital sander with about the grittiest grit you can find: yeah, 40 grit might feel awful to your hands but it still takes a while to get the teak flat. First off, the sander dances around as it “grabs” on the raised black caulking. Then, it starts at the hard raised ridges but it still takes time even with 40grit. Get a decent machine with lots of watts – the £12 850w units aren’t good enuf and get groaningly slowed down.

Its ok to leave it a bit de-ridged rather than grind down to "new" – clean as above and you still have newe looking deck with far less ridges than before. Professionals seem to insist on whamming it down to “new wood all over” which must use more material and limit the number of times you can sand.

11 Finally, about the semco and other protective coverings again: at the cost of it looking like real natural teak, these stop dirt from entering the grain. So, it's sort-of protecting the teak for the next owner of the boat. I spose you could use these over winter, that would be okay. But would a top-class superyacht or classic racer use these protecvtive finishes, or teak? No they blimmin well wouldn't, they'd be chucked out of st tropez and the skipper doomed to everlasting ridicule! Teak means teak.