Mike Bryon
Member
My in-mast reefing lines need replacing. The outhaul is a straightforward replacement but any tips on changing the reefing line would be welcome.
Main in-mast reefing
- Thread starter Mike Bryon
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Supertramp
Well-known member
Probably depends on the make and model. Mine is a Selden and uses a 10mm line with endless splice.
Mike Bryon
Member
It is a proctor system dates from 1986 and also has 10mm lines
Supertramp
Well-known member
Interestingly replacing the outhaul on mine is difficult because the end of the boom has to come off as there is a purchase system inside. Not clear if you are describing a furling line for in mast furling or slab reefing lines (which should be easy as you can stitch them to the end of the old lines and pull through).
Mike Bryon
Member
I'm planning to replace the furling lines for the in mast reefing system. The outhaul is easy as, as you say, I can pull the replacement line through but it's not obvious how the other line is attached to the furling drum and I can't see the line's end at the drum. Any suggestions welcome. Neither are continuous.
Supertramp
Well-known member
If its a single line off a furling drum (like a jib furler) there will be a knot fixing the line to the drum. You would need to pull the furling line fully out to access it, which if its a mainsail probably means lowering the sail. Lubricate the top assembly while it's down.
Chiara’s slave
Well-known member
Other way around surely. Pull the line, the sail furls. With the sail furled, you should be able to access the knot. There could well still be a couple of wraps of line. Replace as is. Cruising dyneema line would be a good replacement. It’s been a while since it was calm enough to get a mainsail out on your mooring, so I’d try that first anyway.
Supertramp
Well-known member
Possibly, but on my furler there are several turns still on the drum when the sail is furled, otherwise I would run out of line furling in a strong wind.
Chiara’s slave
Well-known member
Once you take the load off the line those turns should come off ok. You’d need to replace them ‘as is’ just in case, but the need is much reduced by using non stretch furling line, ie dyneema. No need for fancy pants racing stuff, just not braid on braid polyester.
Tranona
Well-known member
A photo would be helpful as it sounds like it is different from a Selden which has a simple single continuous line that goes over a drum support.seldenmast.com/files/1426855956/595-063-E.pdf
Mike Bryon
Member
Some helpful comments thank you. I am going down the boat tomorrow evening and will post a picture or two.
Moonbeam
Active member
Is it like the Easyreef system (pictured)? The furling line terminates in the hole (red arrow) and the grub screw (blue arrow) simply clamps onto it. With the sail fully furled, there should be at least one or two winds of furling line around the drum so the furling line is not pulling directly on the screw.
Mike Bryon
Member
Picture of furling gear shows top of stopper knot. Do I have to remove the vertical batons, main sail to replace the line or is there an easer way?
Second photo is the furling line's bite (is that the correct term?) which has been bent under the load of furling and obviously needs replacing with something heaver. Could I use self-tappers to attach something more substantial or is riveting essential?
Welcome all advice.
Second photo is the furling line's bite (is that the correct term?) which has been bent under the load of furling and obviously needs replacing with something heaver. Could I use self-tappers to attach something more substantial or is riveting essential?
Welcome all advice.
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Chiara’s slave
Well-known member
I’m sure someone will recognise that, but sadly not me. I can only reiterate that a quality reefing line, once you work out how to get it in, will help you a lot. That one is quite stretchy by modern standards. That is not a good thing.
