Insulating a yacht

Tintin

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I'd like some thoughts on what I am proposing, a way to insulate my boat so I can go high latitude sailing.

The yacht is a late 80's Beneteau First 325.

The headlining is the classic foam backed vinyl, with some panels in some places.

That all drooped and was replaced this winter just gone.

My plan was to sell the boat and get something else, do a major refit, then head off, but have decided to work on the principle of "the best boat is the one you have".

I'm now faced with a conundrum on how to insulate it without having to rip down all the new headlining.

Am instead thinking of getting some 20 to 30mm flexible flame retardant waterproof insulation (any ideas what and where?)

And cut it to size, using the features of the boat to hold it in place, then face it with a suitable plastic - see the pic - again using the curves and features to basically flex it into place.

Suggestions for the right type of plastic sheet too pls.

Anyone tried this?

The ceiling is reasonably easy as there tend to be panels and places I can screw into.

Am going to continue it down into the bilge and locker spaces to avoid lots of condensation build up, and was going to just glue it in place.

The idea is that it is removable afterwards, and that I don't damage the shiny new headlining.

Thoughts?

20200625_113508_resized.jpg
 

rogerthebodger

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I used spray in polyurethane foam when I built my boat for insulation.

35246089954_0a6981abbd_c.jpg


This shows some of the foam after trimming back

35696424210_9234423a84_c.jpg


This is the equipment used

36086051325_be7c485bc3_c.jpg


Spray gun used

36086050455_7f9dfd7858_c.jpg


The other way is to use polyurethane foam bats/blocks glued in.
 

coopec

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There's a 5 minute video clip on how to insulate a boat. It has 4000 likes and 13 dislikes so it may be worth watching. And they talk about condensation too.

(Hopefully I won't have that problem as my yacht has a cored hull and deck and is painted white. I never get condensation but I have six dorade vents)

 

Pete7

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Armaflex, or the poor mans option, sleeping mats. They must be closed cell foam though and seal all edges so moisture can't get behind. If there are air gaps behind cabinets consider an additional foil lining to reflect radiated heat back in or out if you are going south. However, foil must have an air gap to work, ideally at least an inch.

Pete
 

Hacker

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Can’t remember what he used but Mads on Sail Life has just used some self adhesive insulation in his boat. Relevant video was about 3 or 4 weeks ago
 

Tintin

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I used spray in polyurethane foam when I built my boat for insulation.

35246089954_0a6981abbd_c.jpg


This shows some of the foam after trimming back

35696424210_9234423a84_c.jpg


This is the equipment used

36086051325_be7c485bc3_c.jpg


Spray gun used

36086050455_7f9dfd7858_c.jpg


The other way is to use polyurethane foam bats/blocks glued in.

Thanks. Having just had the headlining replaced last winter this route is not an option for me.
 

Javelin

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sarabande

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Fine; opinions are one thing, facts are another.

What leads you to make that statement about Armaflex please ?
 

Daverw

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Been using Armaflex for years on low temp pipe work and sheet for heat exchangers, nothing beats for ease of use and sizes available. Doesn't mind water and fire retardant.
 

wully1

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Have you watched ‘Alluring Arctic’ on YouTube? He spent several winters living aboard an uninsulated Beneteau above the Arctic circle and has a video on heating..

On a previous boat I pretty much eliminated condensation in the fore cabin by hot melt gluing cheap camping carry mat to the bare hull then re fitting the lining.
 

AntarcticPilot

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I can't make any recommendations, but you might want to take into account the following:
  1. Water temperatures can't be less than zero, or about -2°C at worst. Mostly it will be zero, as most ice is freshwater ice; only new sea-ice is salt.
  2. Air temperatures in summer will hover around zero; -5°C is a reasonable planning temperature for western Svalbard and the southern and western bits of Greenland; East Greenland and the eastern part of Svalbard are colder. Arctic Norway and Iceland are warmer.
  3. Draught proofing is at least as important as insulation. There's an obvious conflict between ventilation and keeping draughts out! Ventilation needs to be indirect, though.
  4. Tents used in Antarctica operate on an air gap principle, and are highly effective in much colder conditions than you will encounter. Maybe that's worth thinking about?
  5. You will find that you acclimatize to lower temperatures and will find a cabin that is a comfortable temperature in the UK feels too warm! But of course, humidity and physical effort all alter the balance.
  6. Well known saying amongst polar researchers and their support staff: "Any fool can be uncomfortable in a tent".
Good luck!
 

Rhylsailer99

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I can't make any recommendations, but you might want to take into account the following:
  1. Water temperatures can't be less than zero, or about -2°C at worst. Mostly it will be zero, as most ice is freshwater ice; only new sea-ice is salt.
  2. Air temperatures in summer will hover around zero; -5°C is a reasonable planning temperature for western Svalbard and the southern and western bits of Greenland; East Greenland and the eastern part of Svalbard are colder. Arctic Norway and Iceland are warmer.
  3. Draught proofing is at least as important as insulation. There's an obvious conflict between ventilation and keeping draughts out! Ventilation needs to be indirect, though.
  4. Tents used in Antarctica operate on an air gap principle, and are highly effective in much colder conditions than you will encounter. Maybe that's worth thinking about?
  5. You will find that you acclimatize to lower temperatures and will find a cabin that is a comfortable temperature in the UK feels too warm! But of course, humidity and physical effort all alter the balance.
  6. Well known saying amongst polar researchers and their support staff: "Any fool can be uncomfortable in a tent".
Good luck!
If I was going to go that far North it would freeze then I think going South sounds like a much better option . Azores or Greenland to me its a no brainer,
 

Blueboatman

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18mm kingspan for me with foil backing . Available in 1.2 x2.4m boards
Either with or without plywood/vinyl facings.
Push fit or Velcro or varnished ‘ over’ battens
Seemed to work just fine
 
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