cutting perspex(?) washboards

Birdseye

Birdseye

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My boat came to the firts owner with a one piece transparent plastic (perspex? ) washboard which was heavy and got replaced with two piece ply. I hate wood on the exterior of a boat and would like to go back to the plastic but only if I can cut it into two pieces. Jig saw and circular saws are available.

So how do I cut the plastic? I can imagine that if I go too fast, the melt it.

I will put a slant into the cut but it also makes sense to glue an overlap piece at the junction between the two halves so that wind blown rain cant get in
 
Birdseye said:
My boat came to the firts owner with a one piece transparent plastic (perspex? ) washboard which was heavy and got replaced with two piece ply. I hate wood on the exterior of a boat and would like to go back to the plastic but only if I can cut it into two pieces. Jig saw and circular saws are available.

So how do I cut the plastic? I can imagine that if I go too fast, the melt it.

I will put a slant into the cut but it also makes sense to glue an overlap piece at the junction between the two halves so that wind blown rain cant get in
Click to expand...
Nobody local that cuts plastic?
 
Use a perspex cutting blade on a Still saw (rip, circular saw). On a jig saw you can also buy perspex cutting blades, raked negatively. Use a straight edge clamped to the perspex for cutting a straight line. Keep the plastic protective film on to stop the base of the saw from scratching the sheet. Let the blade cut, don't force the blade into the cut to speed up cutting, but also don't hold back. I have cut through masking tape and no masking tape, can't say it makes a difference. A new, sharp blade is worth it. It won't melt unless the blade is blunt or your ramming the blade into the sheet material, or the board is bending and trying to force the cut slot closed i.e. trying to jam the blade.
 
Birdseye said:
but it also makes sense to glue an overlap piece at the junction between the two halves so that wind blown rain cant get in
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t worry too much about out this. My original Jeanneau washboard has a bunch of holes drilled for ventilation. They’re about 5mm wide and slant down to the outside but rain does get blown in when it’s stormy. The ventilation then allows it to dry almost immediately.
 
If you are not confident to do it yourself take it to a local signmaker to have it cut. The batten across the joint is a good idea - that is what I did and it works well. A strip of perspex glued on would work.
 
I've cut a fair bit of perspex and always just used a circular saw, with a file to finish off.
The trick is to get it right first time. Don't oversize thinking you can easily shave it down as if it were a piece it plywood. The circular saw is fine unless you're trying to skim off a thin strip, when it will start chipping.
 
footsoldier said:
I agree. Save yourself the faff of tricky DIY

I can recommend theplasticman.co.uk - use their online quote tool. I have used them several times and they turn orders around very quickly, even irregular shapes, safely packaged for not a lot of money.
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The OP already has the washboard so just needs to cut it
 
Tranona said:
The OP already has the washboard so just needs to cut it
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan...

Buy a persepx cutting blade, carefully cut the old (probably scratched, clear, brittle persex at an angle Perfectly straight and parralel.

Assuming it didn't break.... Sand the cut edge with 60 grit, progressively coming down in grades to 600/800, then polish with cutting compound. Taking care to keep the edges perfectly straight and aligned, to it forms a seal.

Or, order a couple of pieces of nice new, bronze tint (gives a bit of privacy) perspex, cut to size, polished edges and ready to fit.

eeny meeny miny moe............... :unsure: 😉
 
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Did mine using a jigsaw at slow speed set at 30 degree rake. Took it slowly and steadily. Polished the cut using finer grades of emery. Was not difficult. Have not needed a cover to stop raim getting on the joint. It is a good fit. I used 12mm perspex. You will lose the width of the blade when cutting so if an existing board it will be a few mm shorter than it was.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Sounds like a plan...

Buy a persepx cutting blade, carefully cut the old (probably scratched, clear, brittle persex at an angle Perfectly straight and narrow.

Assuming it didn't break.... Sand the cut edge with 60 grit, progressively coming down in grades to 600/800, then polish with cutting compound. Taking care to keep the edges perfectly straight and aligned, to it forms a seal.

Or, order a couple of pieces of nice new, bronze tint (gives a bit of privacy) perspex, cut to size, polished edges and ready to fit.

eeny meeny miny moe............... :unsure: 😉
Click to expand...
Goodness, I didn't know you were supposed to polish the cut edge.
Next thing you'll be telling me I wasn't supposed to use the piece of perspex I found in the marina skip!
 
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