How to heave to with a self tacking jib?

[hoped4]

I've been puzzling over this in my mind - can you heave to with a self tacking jib? I am guessing that somehow you need to pull the clew to windward and tie it down some how to prevent it self tacking ( or tie it down before tacking the main).
So that it is backed.

 

[neil_s]

There was an article in PBO some time ago about changing headsails while hove to - obviously a backed jib is not the answer! If I remember rightly, they hauled the mainsheet traveller well up to weather and found the boat would lie hove to under mainsail only. Boat was a Contessa 26.

 

[bitbaltic]

Generalising, but the sort of boats that tend to have self-tacking jibs- highly fractional rigs- are the hardest to get hove-to properly anyway.

I have never been able to get mine balanced better than fore-reaching very slowly, and that is with a non-ST headsail. I seldom use the self-tacker, which has some daft pull-stop arrangements on the track which are what I guess you are supposed to use to keep the clew to windward when hove-to. I would not trust them much.

 

[Poignard]

I've been puzzling over this in my mind - can you heave to with a self tacking jib? I am guessing that somehow you need to pull the clew to windward and tie it down some how to prevent it self tacking ( or tie it down before tacking the main).
So that it is backed.

I think you have almost answered your own question. Secure a line to the clew to keep it to leeward and then tack the boat. When she has tacked, lash the tiller down.

 

[matt1]

I've been puzzling over this in my mind - can you heave to with a self tacking jib? I am guessing that somehow you need to pull the clew to windward and tie it down some how to prevent it self tacking ( or tie it down before tacking the main).
So that it is backed.

exactly, mine has "heave too lines" specifically. In effect they just lock off the job car on the track. go about and hey presto! That said, as other pointed out this kind of fractional rig isn't the easiest to settle down. A skinny fractional jib will still tend to keep driving the boat even backed. I find I have to leave the helm slightly more midships rather hard over in order to get her to keep a fairly constant aspect. I also put the tack in pretty slowly and that makes it easier to settle into the heave too

 

[Daydream believer]

Depends on the boat but if it is a Hanse then you will be lucky to get it to heave too safely & a few owners with extensive sailing ability have tried.( i am not talking about light winds with someone still tending the helm from time to time)
As for fixing the jib I have a short strop each end of the track fitted with snap shackles. I just clip these to the required clew . Useful also when running, if I do not have the barber haulers set, to prevent the sail banging from side to side on the track.
As for heaving too on main only, I find it not to work as it allows the sail to flog too much. If you think about it a properly hove too boat will retain a small amount of wind on one side of the main so it does not flog. Held thus by the backed jib & balanced with the rudder if needs be. With main only the boat will want to luff up regardless of rudder position. The main will stall for a while & flog which will ruin the sail in a short while. I would not allow my laminate sails to do that.
Others will disagree with me I am sure, but remember that one should be able to leave the helm of a properly hove too boat & go below with confidence. If not then it is not properly hove too.

 

[Kelpie]

Our boat was not designed with a ST- she is masthead rigged- but has had one added by the previous owner. The track is not curved at all which prevents it from being able to truly self tack unless the sheet load is exactly right. So I sometimes rig up a line either side which lets me tug it that last foot or so, before the load comes on and jams it. These lines can also be cleated off to heave to. The only real downside of them is the extra clutter on the side decks.

 

[jakeroyd]

Would echo the points given above.
I have a Hunter Ranger with a fractional rig and ST jib.
The clew has lines running aft via blocks so I just need to cleat off the leeward one , then tack.

As others have said she does settle down but I can not stop her forereaching at about 1 knot and a half.

 

[oldvarnish]

Others will disagree with me I am sure, but remember that one should be able to leave the helm of a properly hove too boat & go below with confidence. If not then it is not properly hove too.

The Lynn and Larry Pardey test is a good one - done it a few times.

When you think you are hove-to, drop a sheet of kitchen paper over the lee side abreast the cockpit and close to the hull, and watch it float.
If it appears to move forwards or backwards in relation to the boat, then you are not properly hove-to.

 

[Pye_End]

Mine will sit pretty well with the headsail as hard in as possible, so that it is virtually along the centreline and fairly flat. No need to take it to windward. Put the helm down, and she will make a little more way than using the yankee to heave to (cutter rig), but is comfortable/stable enough.

 

[dgadee]

I think you have almost answered your own question. Secure a line to the clew to keep it to leeward and then tack the boat. When she has tacked, lash the tiller down.

That's what I do, too. Having these two lines is also very useful to stop the sail banging from side to side when you are going downwind. The noise below is desperate when the car thuds from one side to the other of the headsail track.

 

[ip485]

The IP has a self tacking staysail on a boom. I have a loop on the end of the boom which can then be attached to a control line rather like a preventer. Works great, although the IP with its long keel and 26 tons hoves to very well under main only.