Help please for a Sealine 240 Senator

Neil22

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I have had a Sealine Senator 240 with a Volvo AD31P as a first boat for about a year. It's been quite a steep learning curve but I'm getting to grips with most things but the manuals don't help much.
Yesterday I did something stupid - forgot to turn the fuel on before starting the engine.
It was running for a few minutes when an alarm sounded and the right hand warning light (pictured) came on. I went to shut down but the engine might have stopped just before I turned the key - presumably (and hopefully) fuel starvation and not something else.
Possibly coincidentally, while it was running, I was watching the exhaust and thinking that there was a lot less bubbling out as usual.

My first question is - what do the three warning lights indicate? Specifically the right hand one. They are unhelpfully not marked.

Secondly, thinking of the reduced exhaust activity have I actually got two problems, e.g. raw water impeller on top of fuel starvation?

Thirdly, I have never tried priming the fuel system (which I'm sure it will need) and am apprehensive of doing something that makes it worse, so can anyone recommend someone in the Gosport/Postmouth area who could help me with all this.

Thanks for anything you can suggest.

Alarm.jpg
 
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dpb

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I think there are 4, not 3 lights. Left to right: water temp, oil pressure, battery / alternator and lastly the cold start / glow plug lamp.
That is assuming they are the right way up!
From memory, bleeding involves loosening the connection of the fuel pipe to the injector whilst cranking the engine. Tighten again once it fires and spurts diesel.
But check the manual procedure first.
Once running keep an eye on the temp gauge if you have a cooling worry.
 

Neil22

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I think there are 4, not 3 lights. Left to right: water temp, oil pressure, battery / alternator and lastly the cold start / glow plug lamp.
That is assuming they are the right way up!
From memory, bleeding involves loosening the connection of the fuel pipe to the injector whilst cranking the engine. Tighten again once it fires and spurts diesel.
But check the manual procedure first.
Once running keep an eye on the temp gauge if you have a cooling worry.
There's definitely omly 3 warning lights on mine which is a year 1993/4.
I have seen a pic of it ... somewhere.
 

DavidJ

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I think there are 4, not 3 lights. Left to right: water temp, oil pressure, battery / alternator and lastly the cold start / glow plug lamp.
That is assuming they are the right way up!
From memory, bleeding involves loosening the connection of the fuel pipe to the injector whilst cranking the engine. Tighten again once it fires and spurts diesel.
But check the manual procedure first.
Once running keep an eye on the temp gauge if you have a cooling worry.
Your fuel pump should have a manual lever. Although laborious it’s a lot safer to manually pump the fuel through for bleeding rather than cranking. Diesel pressures are very high and a spray can penetrate skin let alone if your eye gets in the way.
While you are at it why not change the fuel filter. Saves bleeding twice.

ps I can’t think of any reason the impeller should be starved of water so I wouldn’t worry about that one. If it helps I’ve done the same (just once!). Oddly the throttle levers went floppy (KAD43’s)
 
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Neil22

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Your fuel pump should have a manual lever. Although laborious it’s a lot safer to manually pump the fuel through for bleeding rather than cranking. Diesel pressures are very high and a spray can penetrate skin let alone if your eye gets in the way.
While you are at it why not change the fuel filter. Saves bleeding twice.

ps I can’t think of any reason the impeller should be starved of water so I wouldn’t worry about that one. If it helps I’ve done the same (just once!).
Unless the impeller has chosen this moment to break up. (Just keeping Sod's Law in mind.)
 

QBhoy

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Hi. Two things from me…the second is of most importance.

Firstly, if the engine stopped on its own, from fuel starvation..yeah…you’ll need to prime her up again.
This means ideally filling the pre (water separating) filter with diesel (quickest way). Using the manual priming to make sure the fine filter at engine has fuel evident from small bleed fitting on top.
Then you’ll need to crack open each of the 4 injector fittings. Not all the way. Just enough that they can be released from the olive seal. This requires a 17mm spanner.
Then have someone turn the key until all 4 have evidence of fuel pulses. Only in short bursts though and be careful. She will eventually start again.

But..secondly. If I’m perhaps right in assuming my the picture, that you are on the hard and out the water…I’d think it perhaps likely that your dash light could have unfortunately indicated a high temperature alarm perhaps?
Assuming you had water introduced to the outdrive somehow…I know from experience that these vp DP 290 variants don’t always do well at picking water up from almost any means, other than conventional means, I.e…being in the water normally. Muffs, water containers etc etc…are a 50/50 at best. Especially so if no priming to the engine driven pump or close by has been performed.
I’ve only known one particular style of muffs that did half a job at this. Countless others just don’t manage.

I may be wrong in my assumptions…but if I’m not..you need to have a look at that impeller on the pump, at the least.

Best of luck.
 

PaulRainbow

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Quite so. It hasn't had more than a few hours running this last year, but ...
I'll check back through the documentation to see when ut was last changed.
That should have been something you checked before buying the boat.

You can't always trust what has been done or how well, so when buying a new to you boat it's a good idea to give the engines a full service, that way you start with a clean slate.
 
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Neil22

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Hi. Two things from me…the second is of most importance.

Firstly, if the engine stopped on its own, from fuel starvation..yeah…you’ll need to prime her up again.
This means ideally filling the pre (water separating) filter with diesel (quickest way). Using the manual priming to make sure the fine filter at engine has fuel evident from small bleed fitting on top.
Then you’ll need to crack open each of the 4 injector fittings. Not all the way. Just enough that they can be released from the olive seal. This requires a 17mm spanner.
Then have someone turn the key until all 4 have evidence of fuel pulses. Only in short bursts though and be careful. She will eventually start again.

But..secondly. If I’m perhaps right in assuming my the picture, that you are on the hard and out the water…I’d think it perhaps likely that your dash light could have unfortunately indicated a high temperature alarm perhaps?
Assuming you had water introduced to the outdrive somehow…I know from experience that these vp DP 290 variants don’t always do well at picking water up from almost any means, other than conventional means, I.e…being in the water normally. Muffs, water containers etc etc…are a 50/50 at best. Especially so if no priming to the engine driven pump or close by has been performed.
I’ve only known one particular style of muffs that did half a job at this. Countless others just don’t manage.

I may be wrong in my assumptions…but if I’m not..you need to have a look at that impeller on the pump, at the least.

Best of luck.
Thanks for the long reply. She is afloat and was ok 3 weeks ago. I suspect I have two problems - 1) priming the fuel system and 2) investigating the cooling issue.
As DavidJ says above, I don't know when the impeller was last changed so that's a good place to start.
 

Neil22

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That should have been something you checked before buying the boat.

You can't always trust what has been done or how ell, so when buying a new to you boat it's a good idea to give the engines a full service, that way you start with a clean slate.
I've just checked back and I had an engine & drive service last July during which they changed the impeller, so hmmm.
 

Momac

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The impeller may easily be inspected by removing the brass face plate .
Little use of the boat over winter is not good for impellers .
I have tried aftermarket impellers and found them to be short lived . If in doubt fit a new impeller.

As for the issue of forgetting to turn the fuel on I only touch the fuel shut of valves if I am changing filters . On a diesel fuelled boat I see no reason to turn the fuel off routinely.

The dash warning lights may include a glow plug light even if glow plugs are not fitted.
Screenshot 2024-02-24 18.50.27.png
 

PaulRainbow

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As for the issue of forgetting to turn the fuel on I only touch the fuel shut of valves if I am changing filters . On a diesel fuelled boat I see no reason to turn the fuel off routinely.
What if you have a diesel leak ?

We have 1500 litres of fuel onbaord, don't fancy that in the bilges.
 

stelican

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Hi. Two things from me…the second is of most importance.

Firstly, if the engine stopped on its own, from fuel starvation..yeah…you’ll need to prime her up again.
This means ideally filling the pre (water separating) filter with diesel (quickest way). Using the manual priming to make sure the fine filter at engine has fuel evident from small bleed fitting on top.
Then you’ll need to crack open each of the 4 injector fittings. Not all the way. Just enough that they can be released from the olive seal. This requires a 17mm spanner.
Then have someone turn the key until all 4 have evidence of fuel pulses. Only in short bursts though and be careful. She will eventually start again.

But..secondly. If I’m perhaps right in assuming my the picture, that you are on the hard and out the water…I’d think it perhaps likely that your dash light could have unfortunately indicated a high temperature alarm perhaps?
Assuming you had water introduced to the outdrive somehow…I know from experience that these vp DP 290 variants don’t always do well at picking water up from almost any means, other than conventional means, I.e…being in the water normally. Muffs, water containers etc etc…are a 50/50 at best. Especially so if no priming to the engine driven pump or close by has been performed.
I’ve only known one particular style of muffs that did half a job at this. Countless others just don’t manage.

I may be wrong in my assumptions…but if I’m not..you need to have a look at that impeller on the pump, at the least.

Best of luck.
Regarding water feed by muffs, Are you aware that there is a secondary pick up below the larger intake grilles.
I always blocked this of when using muffs.
 

simonfraser

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Regarding water feed by muffs, Are you aware that there is a secondary pick up below the larger intake grilles.
I always blocked this of when using muffs.
Some legs have a drain hole at the bottom too, plug that up when using muffs
and I strapped the muffs on tight with some spare line
 

Scubadoo

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It's not been an issue so far in almost 15 years owning boats.
I used to think the same, then one day fuel leaked out of a fuel hose crimp, but fortunately it wasn't much that leaked out. After replacing both fuel lines I now keep the fuel valve off when away from the boat and have a red sticker by the ignition to remind me.
 

PaulRainbow

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It's not been an issue so far in almost 15 years owning boats.
When i viewed my current boat, with the owner present, we ran the engines for a short while, he forgot to turn the shutoff valves off. Next morning an engineer arrived at the boat to look into a sticking sea cock, there was 80 litres of diesel in the bilges. If the engineer had left it a few days the whole tank full would have been in the bilge. I always turn the valves off now.
 
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