Gas struts for v berth

[ylop]

The v-berth has two large wooden pieces under the matress, which are removable to give access to lots of storage. They are just loose and fit in a recess not hinged. If you know where something is and can find it you can lift matress, and one of the bits of wood and grab what you need with the other hand. If you need to hunt or need both hands it becomes a bit of a nuisance.

I was thinking about adding some sort of hinge at the bow end and then a gas strut to keep it open (I guess I could just make a prop like a car bonnet). Anyone done this? Got any lessons learned? Able to point me to something that makes working out length and position of the gas strut simple?

Depending on range of strut I might use loose pin hinges on the “hatch lid” so it can removed completely for bigger stuff etc.

 

[V1701]

Is there anything above the berth that you could easily hook a bungee or bit of cord onto? This could be permanently attached under the hinged bunk base?

 

[Plum]

The v-berth has two large wooden pieces under the matress, which are removable to give access to lots of storage. They are just loose and fit in a recess not hinged. If you know where something is and can find it you can lift matress, and one of the bits of wood and grab what you need with the other hand. If you need to hunt or need both hands it becomes a bit of a nuisance.

I was thinking about adding some sort of hinge at the bow end and then a gas strut to keep it open (I guess I could just make a prop like a car bonnet). Anyone done this? Got any lessons learned? Able to point me to something that makes working out length and position of the gas strut simple?

Depending on range of strut I might use loose pin hinges on the “hatch lid” so it can removed completely for bigger stuff etc.

I have fitted hinges and a swing-up prop which works well. The propped up lid holds the matress up too.

 

[Refueler]

I have fitted hinges and a swing-up prop which works well. The propped up lid holds the matress up too.

That's what I would do ... a hinged leg that folds up when not in use .. down to lodge on bunk to prop it all up.

Gas strut ? I've just changed the struts on my Range Rover bonnet ... mmmmmm without significant weight - they are very hard to compress !!

If struts - I would go for hatch struts that have thumbwheel tightening to lock .. same as forehatch / caravan windows etc.

Maybe like this ?

 

[William_H]

As said fit the hinges first. Then find a piece of wood rod that will hold it up. See how it all pans out. Then think of something easier to use if necessary. ol'will

 

[ylop]

Is there anything above the berth that you could easily hook a bungee or bit of cord onto? This could be permanently attached under the hinged bunk base?

It might be possible to use the escape hatch handles but only if the blind is open and presumably if they break Lewmar will want a gizzillion pounds for a thumb sized bit of plastic!

 

[Refueler]

It might be possible to use the escape hatch handles but only if the blind is open and presumably if they break Lewmar will want a gizzillion pounds for a thumb sized bit of plastic!

Thumb wheels ...

The original :

one was missing so I rustled up a 3D print ...

bottom left - various

 

[PaulRainbow]

I would uses one of these : Hatch Support Spring 220mm

Open the hatch and the spring straightens and holds it up. To close it, bend the spring. Don't bend the spring with your head in the locker.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

A long time ago now, but I used to fit out owners yachts for charter. One of the things that had to be done for coding was securing the various locker lids against accidental opening. While some were just simple thumb latches others were a hinge with a snib to lock closed.

The problem you allude to I know well. I usually used a bilge pump handle to prop open the hinged lids which was just okay, nothing great. A simple shaped stick that positively engages with the bunk edge lip, and a small block glued to the underside of the inboard edge of the locker lid, which the stick butts against will work well, with or without hinges. A pair is better at each end, but one in the middle can work just as well if there is nothing of significant size to be removed. The other main advantage of the stick is that it is strong enough to compress the cushion slightly, so you dont have to remove that. Personally, I think that gas struts, springs and stuff like that are just more things to maintain, fail and catch on stuff.

By coincidence, I have just bought a load of butt hinges and snibs to do this. My patience finally snapped lifting cushions and pulling boards out the way over the winter.