Eberspacher heating problem

dunedin

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Apologies for another Eberspacher thread, but I have done a quick search and looked through some of the other threads but not fully understood

Our heater has worked perfectly in the years we have had the boat - using a routine of running monthly to keep in operation. Apologies, not at boat so don't have exact type but looks like a D2 or D4 style, from circa 2000.

However over Easter it failed to start at all - no fan, nothing. I am aware of the common issue of low battery power, but still failed to do anything with engine running (and charging according to voltage meter), or when connected to shorepower, so not that simple.

Our heating controls are very basic (see picture), and don't give any clues to the problem. Normally press the button second from left once, and the heating symbol lights, the fan starts and commences the startup routine. However, it just did nothing and light goes back off. It is not on programme timer mode so that should not be the issue. And no error codes or similar given to assist.

As an Eberspacher novice, some questions

Q1 Are these controls common or unusual (not shown in the manual I looked at) ? And any way to get error codes or clues from them ?

Q2 One suggestion was remove the fuse to try rebooting the ECU. The heater wiring seems to bypass the main switch panel, so any quick and easy suggestion to find which would be the right fuse, or a wire to pull on the heater to do so?
Indeed, is the ECU within the main heater box or separate?

Q3 The manuals list various helpful error codes. But how does one find these out - or does this need an engineer with a plug in diagnostics ?

Q4 Any other simple suggestions to try (for a non-DIY person) before I have to throw more money at the marina engineers to look at it?

Thanks
 

paul-essex

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I have a different one to you but the timer on the left looks like a 7 day timer with thermostat on the right thay look std types to my paperwork if you cant find the right fuse disconnect you battery then re connect it
on my water jacket one the ECU is on its own its a square box with 4 connectors on it
some will give codes out if you connect two pin together in the ECU but google you model to find out

this says something about D2
Copied from http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Fault_codes.html

Eberspacher Fault codes.

Description 'open circuit' means no electrical path exists, like a wire disconnected or broken.
Description 'short circuit' means an electrical path exists, like two uninsulated wires touching together.
Connector S1 is on the cable from the Airtronic. Connector B1 joins this to the wiring loom.
Early model Airtronic ECUs have a plastic cable covering, later generation ECUs have a tape covering and are said to be more reliable.
This fault table is for Airtronic heaters but fault codes are generally common to other models.
It uses information from the Airtronic D2 manual but I have corrected obvious errors plus added material from our own experience.
Use the fault codes as a starting point, look at our other pages for more help if required.
Be aware that where the code shows a component has failed the ECU is unable to identify if it is the component itself that has failed or the electronic circuitry inside the ECU between the main microprocessor brain and the wiring is damaged.
Fault codes are generated by modern Eberspacher heaters (eg D*LCC and Airtronics), these have a blue/white wire for connection to diagnostic testing equipment.
Earlier models like D*LC have limited diagnostics which flash the green controller light, see manuals for details.
Models prior to these have no diagnostics.

Code Faulty description Comments and remedial action.
000 No faults
004 Short circuit fresh air output
Check wiring on Connector B1 pin 16 for short circuit to earth.
If OK replace ECU
005 Short circuit car alarm output
Check wiring on Connector B1 pin 15 for short circuit to earth.
If OK replace ECU
009 Cut off ADR
ADR shut-down B1 pin 13 or 14. ADR is only used for vehicles carrying hazardous materials.
010 Over-voltage cut off
Voltage over 16 volts for at least 20 seconds, (32 volt for 24 volt heaters)
Check alternator regulator or disconnect battery charger.
12 volt heater connected to 24 volt battery.
011 Under-voltage cut off (Low voltage at heater)
Voltage under 10.5 volts for at least 20 seconds (21 volts for 24 volt heaters)
IMPORTANT measure at the heater, not at the battery terminals where the voltage can be a lot higher. Usually occurs during starting when glow-pin is on.
Extremely common fault, usually due to a discharged battery but many other reasons described on our Low Voltage Faults page.
The measurement method described in the Eberspacher Airtronic fault code list is almost useless, the heater must be connected and switched on so drawing current.
012 Overheating at overheat sensor
Temperature of the overheating sensor too high.
Check heating air path for crushed pipes or blockages, air outlets closed or blocked.
Check if air pipes are too long or have too many bends. (Just replacing a straight outlet hood with right angle version can often put the piping outside specification.)
Check pumped fuel volume. Check Overheat sensor.
The heater can be reset from fault codes 012 and 013 by switching off and back on.
Overheating can damage the ECU so find and eliminate the cause.
More info on our Faults 2 page, mainly in the Faults when running section.
013 Overheating at flame sensor
Temperature of the flame sensor too high.
Check as fault code 012. Check Flame sensor instead of overheat sensor.
014 Temperature difference between flame and overheat sensors too large
Temperature difference between flame and overheat sensors too large.
Check as fault code 012.
Check both Flame sensor and Overheat sensor.
015 Overheating lock out.
This code displayed when the heater is switched on after fault code 017 was displayed.
(I have no idea why this fault code is needed, code 017 covers the problem!)
More info in fault code 017.
017 Overheating lock out.
The temperature exceeded the maximum the overheat sensor can measure.
The ECU is locked for safety reasons.
Airtronic manual says the control box failed to recognise overheating fault code 012 or 013.
My explanation on why 017 occurs is on the Faults 2 page.
Heat may have damaged the ECU, if not it can be unlocked using appropriate equipment.
IMPORTANT Identify and clear the cause of overheating before trying to reset.
This lockout is for a serious safety problem.
More info on our Faults 2 page.
019* Ignition energy too low
*New generation ECUs only.
The glow-pin heats the burner during starting so the fuel can ignite.
The flame sensor measured the temperature which is not high enough to ignite the fuel.
Check glow-pin. Check vent hole is clear, Check exhaust and combustion air path.
Check pumped fuel supply volume. Check flame sensor.
If all OK replace ECU
020 Glow-pin interruption (Glow-pin open circuit)
Check glow-pin connector is fully pushed into ECU, plug has thick brown and white wires.
Check for broken wires.
Check glow-pin resistance, 12 volt 0.42 to 0.7 ohms, 24 volt 1.2 to 2.5 ohm.
Measurement details and photos on Faults 2 page and Airtronic Servicing page 2.
If all ok replace ECU
021 Glow-pin short circuit to earth
Check glow-pin resistance as in code 020
Check wiring for damage, usually close to glow-pin due to removal without a modified socket.
Check for water in connectors and heater.
If all ok replace ECU
022* Glow-pin short circuit to battery positive supply
*New generation ECUs only.
Check wiring for insulation damage.
Check for water in connectors and heater.
If OK replace ECU.
025* Diagnostic cable short circuit to battery positive supply
*New generation ECUs only.
Check blue/white wire is not damaged or loose and touching the +12 volt supply.
Check for water in connectors and heater.
This fault can only be read by diagnostic equipment like D2H tester that intercepts the blue/white at S1, items like 801 controller use the blue/white so all
diagnostics are disabled.
031 Blower (fan) motor interruption. (Blower open circuit)
Check blower (fan) motor plug is fully pushed into ECU, plug has black and white wires.
Photos on Airtronic servicing page 2.
Check wiring for damage.
Check resistance of the motor is roughly 0.5 ohms.
If OK replace ECU
032 Blower (fan) motor short circuit to earth or drawing excessive current.
Check wiring to fan for insulation damage.
Check for water in connectors and heater.
Check motor is free to rotate and not catching on case or ECU.
Check bearings are not starting to seize.
Check resistance of the blower motor is roughly 0.5 ohms.
Do not try to dismantle blower without reading Airtronic servicing and Blower pages.
Eberspacher say test the motor with an 8 volt 20 amp supply, not 12 volts.
Few users will have a suitable 8 volt supply so a dealer may be needed to diagnose.
After 40 seconds if current is more than 6.5 amps motor is faulty, otherwise replace ECU.
033 Blower (fan) not rotating or rotating at wrong speed.
Speed deviation greater than 10% from specified for more than 30 seconds.
Check blower is free to rotate and not catching on case or ECU. Sometimes glow-pin wires can cause ECU to be pushed slightly towards the fan.
Check blower motor plug is fully pushed into ECU, plug with black and white wires.
Measure the Blower speed using a non contact rpm meter, one cost £8 including post from China December 2012.
D2 Power 4800 ±140 rpm, Fast 4000 ±120 rpm, Medium 2800 ±80 rpm, Slow 2000 ±60 rpm
D4 Power 4400 ±130 rpm, Fast 3500 ±100 rpm, Medium 2600 ±80 rpm, Slow 1600 ±50 rpm
D5 Speeds are not quoted in manual
D1LCC Power 5000 rpm, Fast 4400 rpm, Medium 3000 rpm Slow 3000 rpm
D3LCC Power 4200 rpm, Fast 4200 rpm, Medium 2200 rpm Slow 3000 rpm
If RPM is too high, check if magnet in impeller is mounted properly, photo Airtronic service page 2. The detector for the magnet is inside the ECU.
If RPM is too low, check air path for restrictions or blockage.
Check wiring for breaks, loose connections, faulty insulation.
Check as code 032.
Do not try to dismantle blower without reading Airtronic servicing and Blower pages.
If OK replace ECU.
034* Blower (fan) motor short circuit to +12 volts
*New generation ECUs only.
Check for water in heater.
Manual says check wires for damage but unlikely to be cause in Airtronics as no +12v close.
If OK replace ECU.
047 Fuel metering pump short circuit to earth or overload current
Disconnect the wires on the pump connector, if fault code 048 is displayed pump is faulty.
(If the pump has to be replaced please donate the faulty one to us for science.)
If code 47 remains displayed also disconnect the main loom connector B1 and then check the wiring to the pump with a test meter for a short circuit. Most likely
cause is mechanical damage to the insulation where cables are clipped in position or uninsulated connectors on older Eberspacher pump types touching the chassis.
Check for water in connectors and heater.
If OK replace ECU.
048 Fuel metering pump interruption (Fuel pump open circuit)
Disconnect the wires on the pump connector and measure the resistance of the pump.
The resistance of an Eberspacher D1LCC, D2, D4 or D5 pump should measure 10 ± 0.5 ohms (24v 36 ± 1.8 ohms). If not ok check connections for corrosion,
replace pump, see code 047.
If OK reconnect the pump and disconnect the main Eberspacher loom connector B1.
Measure resistance across the connector pins 5 and 10 going to the pump.
If not ok wiring to pump is faulty, if OK check connectors S1 B1 for corrosion, replace ECU.
If no test meter is available the pump can be connected to a 12 volt battery, it should make a loud click each time it is connected. (Take care not to accidentally
short circuit the battery).
More info Fuel 2 page.
If OK replace ECU.
049* Fuel metering pump short circuit to positive battery
 

paul-essex

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more as it was to long for post
*New generation ECUs only..
Check for water in connectors and heater.
If OK replace ECU
050 Too many start attempts.
ECU locked out.
The ECU locks out after 255 consecutive start attempts (Airtronic heaters).
The count is reset if any other fault occurs during this time so code 050 is very unusual.
It can be unlocked with appropriate equipment.
051 Flame detected during switch on
Flame sensor resistance above 1274 ohms at switch on indicates the temperature is above 70 degrees C and the fan runs to cool it down.
If temperature does not fall below 70 degrees within approx 15 minutes heater is switched off.
Check flame sensor, if OK replace ECU.
052 Safety time exceeded.
Unit failed to start on both start attempt sequences. No flame was detected during the two start attempt sequences, unit shut down after a cooling down cycle.
This is simply a standard failure to start fault indication.
The causes are detailed in Faults 2 page.
053 Flame cut-out in Power stage
The flame extinguished during the Power stage.
The causes are detailed in Faults 2 page in the section "Eberspacher starts normally but stops whilst running, it may try to restart."
054 Flame cut-out in High stage
The flame extinguished during the High stage. Causes same as fault 053
055 Flame cut-out in Medium stage
The flame extinguished during the Medium stage. Causes same as fault 053.
056 Flame cut-out in Low stage
The flame extinguished during the Low stage. Causes same as fault 053.
060 External temperature sensor interruption (open circuit)
External temperature sensor disconnected while heater was running.
If still open circuit it will be ignored during starting and heater will use its internal sensor.
Disconnect connector B1 and measure resistance between B1 pins 6 and pin 12.
If greater than 7175 ohms check grey and brown/white wires and extensions for breaks.
Check Sensor resistance, it should be between 1600 and 2100 ohms (0 to +30 degrees C)
If OK ECU is faulty but it probably can still be used with the internal sensor.
061 External temperature sensor short circuit
Disconnect connector B1 and measure resistance between B1 pins 6 and pin 12.
If less than 486 ohms check grey and brown/white wires + extensions to sensor for damage.
Disconnect & check sensor, it should be between 1600 and 2100 ohms (0 to +30 degrees C)
062 Control unit interruption (open circuit)
Heater received the switch on signal from the controller but could not read the controller temperature setting.
Check grey/red wire for a break or loose connection.
For a rheostat type controller only disconnect S1 B1 and measure resistance between B1 pin 6 and pin 7, the control should adjust from 1750 to 2180 ± 80 ohms.
If OK replace ECU, otherwise with B1 still disconnected measure across rheostat pins with grey/red and brown/white wires. If not OK replace controller.
For more modern types of controller follow instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
063 Control unit short circuit
Fault recognised only if it occurs in heating mode.
If heater switched on with this fault ventilation mode is selected, (not a fault code). Detailed instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
(The methods quoted in the manual will not work for some diagnostic equipment which need the controller on/off switch such as the 801 controller.)
Fault code indicates resistance value was less than 486 ohms.
064 Flame sensor interruption (open circuit)
Detailed instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
Fault code indicates resistance value was greater than 7175 ohms.
065 Flame sensor short circuit
Detailed instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
Fault code indicates resistance value was less than 486 ohms.
071 Overheat sensor interruption (open circuit)
Detailed instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
Fault code indicates resistance value was greater than 223k ohms.
072 Overheat sensor short circuit
Detailed instructions on Faults 2 page in section "Stage 2 Pre start failure".
Fault code indicates resistance value was less than 183 ohms.
Alternatively remove blue connector from ECU, if code 071 is displayed replace combi sensor.
If code 072 continues to be displayed replace ECU.
074 ECU defective
Overheating threshold not detected by ECU, replace ECU
090 ECU problem
This fault can be caused by connecting the battery supply with the heater switched on.
Sometimes it can be reset with appropriate equipment, if not replace ECU
091 External interference voltage
ECU affected by interfering voltages from vehicles electrical system.
Possible causes poor battery or battery charger.
Leisure batteries, especially ones continuously float charged, can deteriorate with no other obvious signs unlike engine batteries which fail to start the engine so are
quickly replaced.
The battery condition indicator may still show OK even if battery is bad.
092 ECU defective (Rom error)
Memory inside ECU failed, replace ECU
093* ECU defective
*New generation ECUs only.
Replace ECU
094 ECU defective EEPROM error
Programmable memory failed, replace ECU
095* ECU defective
*New generation ECUs only.
Replace ECU
096 Internal temperature sensor faulty
Use an external sensor. Full details on the Remote sensor page.
If the installation must use an internal sensor wire up an external sensor, feed the wires back into the case and fix the external sensor close to the original internal sensor.
097 ECU defective
Replace ECU
098* ECU defective
*New generation ECUs only.
Replace ECU
099* Too many resets in sequence
*New generation ECUs only.
Voltage short term drops below 5 - 6 volts (for 12 volt) or 7 - 8 volts (for 24 volt).
Check +12 volt and earth (0 volts) from the battery for loose or corroded connections.
Check fuse and fuse-holder, check battery terminals, check battery cables for damage.
Check battery condition. Leisure batteries, especially ones continuously float charged, can deteriorate with no other obvious signs unlike engine batteries which fail
to start the engine so are quickly replaced. The battery condition indicator may still show OK even if battery is bad.

MUCH more information is available here http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Eberspacher_Faults_1.html
 

Stork_III

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White Eber symbols so probably no diagnostics. Should be wired diredt from Battery, and should have 2 fuses, main power to heater 20amp? and power to timer 5 amp. Look close to battery for fuses.

Had identical controllers on my 1995 HR31.
 

pcatterall

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The white logo on the 701 timer indicates no diagnostics ( special timer for BT ( vans) I think.
If the OP can identify the red lead that goes to his timer ( check there is 12v+ there) and just connect that to the yellow lead from the heater then he will have effectively bypassed the timer controls if the heater then fires up he will know where to look.
 

rosewood

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Take it off and take to a dealer. Charge you about 30 quid to diagnostic check it. Mine was knackered and had to buy a new updated ecu for 250 quid. The bloke at Kruger marine in portsmouth is a top bloke
 

rosewood

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Take it off and take to a dealer. Charge you about 30 quid to diagnostic check it. Mine was knackered and had to buy a new updated ecu for 250 quid. The bloke at Kruger marine in portsmouth is a top bloke

Sorry just realised you in Scotland. Must be dealers up thee though. I messed with mine for literally years until I just had to blithe the bullet
 

dunedin

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Thanks all for your advice.

Will try the power off to reset the ECU first, though perhaps more in hope than expectation of fix

The fault codes list would be helpful if I had some way of seeing them, but my controller doesn't show them. What do folks think, is it worth trying to wire in a newer 801 control panel which may show diagnostics for £55 plus fitting? Is it plug and play on my current two units?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBERSPACH...ervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item4ac7d827b0

Taking out to get an engineer to check over could be an option, except if the fault is in the wiring or fuel supply.

So will try the power reset and do a bit more investigations, thanks all
 

pcatterall

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Before you have it checked. Do the yellow to red test as suggested. Then Do a simple continuity check on pump circuit, glow pin, flame and over heat sensors. Hopefully you have the manual with instructions for doing this. Your heater will not start if any of these items is not within tolerance but usually the fault is an open or short circuit.
If you begin to think it is the ECU then you could remove it and send it to someone to test. I would volunteer but am setting off on holiday soon. TIP... If sending your ecu off make sure you give it an invisible or 'secret' mark so you know you get your own back!!..........once bitten!!
 

dunedin

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An update. On the boat today so took a brief look. Also confirmed that it is a D3 device.

Located the fuses (in a natty holder of a type not seen before), removed them to reset the power, and checked for continuity. Also labelled them for future reference.
After repowering initially still didn't seem to work. So had a poke around all the connections and wiring in the stern locker.

About to give up but gave one more try and magically it decided to play ball - fan came on and went through the startup routine (the bit that had not happened at all before). Failed to fire first (double) attempt, but 10 minutes later gave another go - and started and blasted out the heat !

So progress. Albeit not convinced it is "fixed" rather it may be an intermittent fault. So will have to wait and see

Thanks all
 
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