JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
And your evidence that that is a single hot junction is ...
Cooker thermocouples
- Thread starter TiggerToo
- Start date
And your evidence that that is a single hot junction is ...
DownWest
Well-Known Member
Mine is simple experience. The valves were a button that pushed the bit inside open and there was a little electro-magnet, powered by the simple thermocouple, that held it open. I looked inside one or two, out of interest.
Our current cooker here, a big range type, has the same flame failure device. No pilot light (obviously) runs of bottled gas, as we are out in the sticks.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Thats what thermocouples are ... a single hot junction.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
Exactly my point.
maby
Well-Known Member
Getting back to a more practical note - the flame failure device on one of the burners of our nearly new cooker is becoming troublesome and there is nobody conveniently near to the boat to fix it, so I wonder if anyone has any suggestions as to how I could do it myself (without blowing te boat up!).
It worked fine when the boat was delivered but after a few months, it became necessary to hold the knob in for ten or fifteen seconds before the gas supply would latch on. Then it started cutting out from running if the oven below was lit and allowed to heat up - even after the oven was turned off, we would have to wait for the hob to cool down before we could light this burner. The other burner on the hob has always worked perfectly.
Eventually we got in touch with the dealer who had supplied the boat and they arranged for a local gas fitter to come along and fix it under warranty. He stripped it down, replaced nothing, reassembled it and it worked fine again. But it has started again - taking ten or more seconds to get hot enough to latch the gas valve open and it now will not stay alight on a low flame setting. This hob is still less than a year old, so the thermocouple really should not be worn out or dirty! We have now moved the boat and it is not near to the dealer or the gas fitter who repaired it last time. He didn't take long over it before - I just want to understand what is the likely cause to see if I can do it.
It worked fine when the boat was delivered but after a few months, it became necessary to hold the knob in for ten or fifteen seconds before the gas supply would latch on. Then it started cutting out from running if the oven below was lit and allowed to heat up - even after the oven was turned off, we would have to wait for the hob to cool down before we could light this burner. The other burner on the hob has always worked perfectly.
Eventually we got in touch with the dealer who had supplied the boat and they arranged for a local gas fitter to come along and fix it under warranty. He stripped it down, replaced nothing, reassembled it and it worked fine again. But it has started again - taking ten or more seconds to get hot enough to latch the gas valve open and it now will not stay alight on a low flame setting. This hob is still less than a year old, so the thermocouple really should not be worn out or dirty! We have now moved the boat and it is not near to the dealer or the gas fitter who repaired it last time. He didn't take long over it before - I just want to understand what is the likely cause to see if I can do it.
JohnGC
Well-Known Member
Some time ago there was a thread regarding a similar problem. I can't remember the details but the fix involved removing the knob, packing it out with a bit of folded foil and replacing it.
This fixed the problem because the knob no longer pushed the valve spindle in far enough to open it fully. The electro-magnet would not latch even though gas flowed while the knob was held.
It may be the knob hole depth became greater with use or more likely, it was too deep to start with and was relying on a weakening spring clip to grip the spindle. Replacing the flame out device won't fix this problem and since it's quick and easy to check, you might as well.
VicS
Well-Known Member
Check the junction end of the thermocouple.
Make sure it is in the flame properly, and clean off any carbon or other deposits.
Check the flame pattern is Ok.... clean the burner cap if necessary.
Check the connection at the valve end. Clean the "button" contact if it is a screw nut retained fitting. Inspect the connector if it is a push fit type.
If the problem only occurs when the oven is alight check that there is no reason, eg missing or displaced heat deflector or insulation that would cause the oven to heat the thermocouple mounting ( and therefore the cold junction).
Because it will latch in given long enough i would not think John GC's suggestion is the answer , but do not dismiss it entirely.
A replacement thermocouple from a supplier such as BES should not cost more than about a fiver. Therefore , esp in view of previous trouble, consider replacing it.......... hopefully can be done without dismantling the entire cooker
coaster63
Well-Known Member
+1 Make sure it is in the flame properly ,some times if the small flame directed on to the couple tip is weak extra air flow from burner being turned up to high deflects the small flame enough to loose heat in the tip allowing unlatching.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
On my cooker - Techimpex - it's very easy for the burner cap to rotate slightly so that there is no long a flame playing on the thermowhatever tip. That's enough to stop it working, but a tiny re-totation (and tightening with a screwdriver) sorts it.
alahol2
Well-Known Member
If you've got a two burner hob you've got 2 thermocouples. Try swapping them and if the problem follows the thermocouple you know that's the problem. Otherwise...
It sounds possible that there's a slight blockage/loss of pressure to the problematic burner.
It sounds possible that there's a slight blockage/loss of pressure to the problematic burner.
thegasmannick
Well-Known Member
if you have a fault with thermocouple /cooker get a professional person to check and test as it is part of gas safe regulation`s for a reason it is your safety and being in a boat it is critical that thing`s work correctly as it would be fatal if all goes wrong
i dont wish to be obvious but i work on gas on domestic and boats and ive seen thing`s that scare the hell out me what people have done
but if you want any advice please ask but it could be lot`s of reason`s down to pipework incorrect regulator either could have blockage so dont just go for cooker fault could be installation fault
i dont wish to be obvious but i work on gas on domestic and boats and ive seen thing`s that scare the hell out me what people have done
but if you want any advice please ask but it could be lot`s of reason`s down to pipework incorrect regulator either could have blockage so dont just go for cooker fault could be installation fault
