Clip on cleat midships ?

dunedin said:
Until you get a permanent solution, a pulley attached to the toerail would be perfect for solo berthing.
Rig the middle rope (with large bowline lop on end, ideally threaded through a bit of water pipe to keep open) through pulley and back to genoa winch. This allows the loop to be dropped on a cleat whilst still on board, then the spring to be shortened tensioned from the cockpit before putting the power on to pin in.
Pop the kettle on, have a cuppa - then step ashore and rig the other ropes :)
Click to expand...
That's what we do even though we've got a midships cleat. Soft shackle round cleat, rope through soft shackle back to cockpit.
 
Daverw said:
We fitted ours to the toe ail using short section of stainless box bolted to the rail and then normal cleat mounted on the top, this lifts it above the fail heigh, this is used consistently as we lock in and out and need to hold mid ships
Click to expand...

That I like .....

Bow mooring puts lines through a fairlead - basically enlarged freeing port holes in toe-rail .... already had one line chafe.

Maybe a fashioned hard wood block .....

mmmm thinking !!
 
Instant removable cleat, aka belaying pin. Piece of SS/bronze/brass bar, to fit toerail hole. Inside it is either bigger or has a small flange. Push it out through the hole, instant cleat. Probably need an eye and lanyard on it. I made these for my FV using an old piece of 1in bronze prop shaft, dropped in a hole in the quarter knee.
 
fredrussell said:
Same as mine - plenty strong enough.

PS - Sweet looking boat but if you don’t mind me saying she’s crying out for white or light grey deck paint! To each their own, obvs.
Click to expand...

Initially I hated the red ... in fact I hate red hulls as well ....

But the boat 'grows' on you .... such that I no longer think about ways to change from the red deck.
 
fisherman said:
That could equally well be a flat wood base sitting on the deck with a samson post and two pegs to go out hrough two holes.
Click to expand...

I was thinking wood block bolted to toe-rail ... standard cleat fastened on top.... similar to post #19 .....

I also considered elongated U section rod .... legs through toe-rail with the main U part outside toe-rail providing for rope attachment. No block - just nut each side of toe-rail
 
Refueler said:
I was thinking wood block bolted to toe-rail ... standard cleat fastened on top.... similar to post #19 .....

I also considered elongated U section rod .... legs through toe-rail with the main U part outside toe-rail providing for rope attachment. No block - just nut each side of toe-rail
Click to expand...
A short wood block will be prone to splitting. Anything fixed that is outside the rail is fine until you get alongside someone, or something in a flop and it gets knocked off. You might as well use an eyebolt in that case.
 
I have them, and it's as strong as anything else on the boat. Toerails like that are an integral part of the structure on my boat (Moody 31) and as such anything securely bolted to it is very strong. Mine routinely takes the stresses imposed by using a spring to stop the boat when coming alongside.
 
LiftyK said:
My mid cleats are bolted horizontally through my aluminium toe rail. Super strong and they work well. Sheets do not snag.
Click to expand...

I have considered mounting normal cleats on outside of the alloy .... they would be proud of boat side .... sheets are inside of this - so only when sheets slack and 'fall' overside may they catch.

Will take a couple of cleats down to boat and see how it looks ...
 
Refueler said:
I have considered mounting normal cleats on outside of the alloy .... they would be proud of boat side .... sheets are inside of this - so only when sheets slack and 'fall' overside may they catch.

Will take a couple of cleats down to boat and see how it looks ...uple of cleats down to boat and see how i
Click to expand...
Well if you intend to fit them on the outside, a pinrail would be snag free.
 
It really hurts when you kick a mid cleat or even worse get a couple of toes under one while rushing forward. They are not much use when you are lying on the foredeck groaning in pain.
 
wombat88 said:
It really hurts when you kick a mid cleat or even worse get a couple of toes under one while rushing forward. They are not much use when you are lying on the foredeck groaning in pain.
Click to expand...
Sounds an incredibly foolish thing to do. Even my land lubber charterers failed to achieve that level of ineptitude, though all potential trip hazards were marked with a small circle of red paint.
 
wombat88 said:
It really hurts when you kick a mid cleat or even worse get a couple of toes under one while rushing forward. They are not much use when you are lying on the foredeck groaning in pain.
Click to expand...
Mine are located where kicking them is not even slightly likely. I'm completely unaware of them as a trip hazard; there are other things much more likely to be a trip haard.
 
I also have the YS cleats which bolt to the toe rail - never had a problem with them, but did have to drill a hole in the toe rail for one bolt as the existing holes did not line up. Not cheap though, a quick Google says Seamark Nunn are cheapest at £140 each. I picked mine up cheap from ebay years ago as they were shop soiled.
 
It may sound a bit paranoid .... but using toe-rail as mount for a cleat .... I am inclined to use a GFN moulded cleat instead of metal. Then if real stress comes on - the cleat would give way before the toe-rail ...

GFN ? The typical black 'plastic' cleats are often Glass Filled Nylon ... a very strong form of nylon ...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top