Cleat - poor match in size ... how to fit

[Refueler]

How to fit a folding cleat and not have it look a bodge .....

Cover a freeing port and bolt either side ?

Or mount between freeing ports but have ends of cleat proud ?

Obviously a barrier between the stainless and alloy etc.

I don't want to add anything on outside of rail apart from barrier tape as the rail is flush with hull side. The cleat already will be outside of hull line.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Option2 looks horrible and imposes some force on the toe rail. So option 1 would be my choice. For the best cosmetic looks i'd add a stainless plate on the inside, same size/shape as the cleat.

 

[Refueler]

I assume Paul you mean this one where cleat neatly covers the hole ....

Here's cleat moved a touch for reference ... (note in all photos I'm holding cleat .. boat is moving and my other hand is trying to take photo !)

I would scrounge some nice metal backing from my Metal Master pal ...

The folding cleat ... I was sceptical when I ordered ... but having in hand - its heavy and well built. I can actually believe it can take spring weight ... I would not want to rely on it as a permanent cleat - but for coming alongside - fine.

 

[Refueler]

I'm seriously thinking about more as my MoBo has no side cleats either.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I assume Paul you mean this one where cleat neatly covers the hole ....

Yes, i think that looks much nicer.

 

[Refueler]

So here's a question ... the cleat is held open / closed by a spring tab. ...

My thoughts are to mount it so you LIFT cleat ... that way if tab fails later - cleat is not falling open to catch things. But I think design is for it to be cleat opens downward ...

How would you fit ?

 

[penberth3]

So here's a question ... the cleat is held open / closed by a spring tab. ...

My thoughts are to mount it so you LIFT cleat ... that way if tab fails later - cleat is not falling open to catch things. But I think design is for it to be cleat opens downward ...

How would you fit ?

Not sure what you're attaching to the cleat. I'd arrange it so the pull is opening the cleat against its stops, rather than trying to fold it to its closed position.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Rather than on the outside, fashion a piece of alloy inside, such as a shaped upside down U, secured via the two slots in the toe rail, then mount the cleat on top of the U channel. The upside down U is to stop sheets getting caught under it but allowing flow to pass on down the deck.

Or something like that.

 

[fredrussell]

Agree with above. Seems an odd place to mount a cleat to me. I wouldn’t want anything sitting proud of the topsides/toerail like that.

 

[Aja]

I assume Paul you mean this one where cleat neatly covers the hole ....

Here's cleat moved a touch for reference ... (note in all photos I'm holding cleat .. boat is moving and my other hand is trying to take photo !)

I would scrounge some nice metal backing from my Metal Master pal ...

The folding cleat ... I was sceptical when I ordered ... but having in hand - its heavy and well built. I can actually believe it can take spring weight ... I would not want to rely on it as a permanent cleat - but for coming alongside - fine.

What size of line would that take? It looks unsubstantial.

 

[Refueler]

Not sure what you're attaching to the cleat. I'd arrange it so the pull is opening the cleat against its stops, rather than trying to fold it to its closed position.

The spring tab is quite strong ... but as we know - they can fail long before item is done.

The purpose of the cleat is to use for coming alongside .. there are no cleats other than bow and transom ....... I thought about using a carabina or similar on the toe-rail but decided a more permanent actual cleat would be better. A carabina or other clip would in fact stick out more than this folder cleat ...
Coming alongside couple days ago - showed up the lack of such pivotal cleat ..

Ideally - I would like to fit the correct large alloy cleat that matches the Toe-rail fastenings - as at bow .. but I can only find similar in UK and at shocking price. Then shipping and customs. The measurements are not quite right as well.

If I was to fit a block inside the Toe-rail - I might as well just go for a conventional alloy cleat .. but I wanted to keep inside clear for the sheets etc. My other boat has a standard cleat on Toe-rail and it can catch sheets ... Reason I chose a folder for now.

I agree that on outside of Toe-rail is slightly proud of hull ... but its actually not that much .. But if the spring tab fails - and cleat drops open - then its a different story. Reason I thought to mount other way .. so if tab fails - the cleat stays closed.

All points read and taken .. whatever I do will be a long-term matter - its why I'm asking here.

 

[Refueler]

What size of line would that take? It looks unsubstantial.

A 10mm line with just eye over the cleat is fine. Its just for midships spring line for coming alongside ..

Not that I'd use such - but even a 6 or 8mm line would do the job .. its not for permanent mooring line.

I could get my Metal Master guy to fashion an alloy L or even U plate to bolt in place to carry a cleat .. but I am reluctant to start undoing the large machine screws holding the Toe-rail down. I have no idea what is underdeck as its all hidden away behind wood panelling etc.

 

[Stemar]

I wouldn't want anything on the outside of the toe rail like that. Sod's law says it's certain to catch on something. I'd be far more inclined to fit it on the side deck.

 

[Refueler]

Here's a general video .....

 

[Refueler]

I will be talking to my mate and if he has some spare alloy to make a stand for a cleat inside toe-rail ...

 

[dunedin]

A 10mm line with just eye over the cleat is fine. Its just for midships spring line for coming alongside ..

Not that I'd use such - but even a 6 or 8mm line would do the job .. its not for permanent mooring line.

I could get my Metal Master guy to fashion an alloy L or even U plate to bolt in place to carry a cleat .. but I am reluctant to start undoing the large machine screws holding the Toe-rail down. I have no idea what is underdeck as its all hidden away behind wood panelling etc.

At risk of a diversion, but if really “not for permanent mooring lines” but just for “mid ships spring line coming alongside” there would be much simpler solutions that don’t involve any metalwork.
Firstly could simply bowline the spring onto the toerail. Or the ideal mid ships spring would be enabled by a low friction ring on a short dyneema loop to attach to the rail. Then a spring with a bowline loop on the end goes through the LF ring and back to the genoa winch. Loop the loop on something behind the mid ships, pull in the slack on the winch, engine on and wheel over - put the kettle on.
PS. If going the trouble to fit a cleat, some nothing bigger would be better as looks to small for proper use.

 

[NormanS]

I simply bolted a short length of alloy angle to the toenail upstand, and bolted the cleat on top. The exposed ends of the alloy angle are of course, tapered away so as not to catch anything.

 

[Refueler]

I considered a loop etc. but for me - I would like something a bit more aesthetic ...

I didn't know till today - but had a chat with a guy - who reckoned he had same folders ... that he was surprised how strong they were ...

Anyway ... at present I am 50 - 50 about where I use them ... I have a pair.
This video is of the MoBo I have and it has no cleats midships and these folders would suit her better ... leaving me to ponder Anisette ...

 

[Refueler]

I simply bolted a short length of alloy angle to the toenail upstand, and bolted the cleat on top. The exposed ends of the alloy angle are of course, tapered away so as not to catch anything.

That's actually what I think I am moving towards. I can get reasonable sized standard cleats in shop nearby. In fact the cleats on Superanne (4 ton) are black nylon and survived without any signs of failure ..

 

[Fr J Hackett]

If you are concerned about a "proper" inboard fixed cleat on the sidedeck catching sheets it's easy enough to make a couple of tapered blocks joined with a short piece of bungy cord that cover the open horns of the cleat and ensure that any lines or sheets are deflected. You used to be able to buy such things. A decent midships cleat that will sustain reasonable loads is invaluable. Failing that a snatch block or similar fitted to the toerail as and when needed is an answer.