Cleat - poor match in size ... how to fit

NormanS said:
If I'm going in alongside a pontoon or similar, I have the end of a line made fast to the base of the midship cleat. On approach, the bight of the line is dropped over the pontoon cleat, a turn round the midship cleat then allows the boat to move ahead to the desired position by surging the line round the cleat, while motoring or sailing gently ahead. No winch or winching required.
The only time that I would possibly have a dedicated fixed length line made fast at both ends, would be if I was berthing at my own private pontoon berth, which doesn't exist. This method also allows me, on leaving, to spring the stern out, then go astern, casting off from the midship cleat, and retrieve the line at leisure. Quite obvious really, but if you prefer to lead your line to another point, then that's your privilege. It's whatever is more convenient.
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Jolly good
 
Refueler said:
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It looks like a temporary shackle or clip will be used on the toe-rail until I have a final solution organised. PLUS my briefing of all on board as to what I want to be done BEFORE getting alongside !!
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Do ensure it is temporary, lest your toenail starts looking like mine with a half-inch divot where the shackle connects.
 
dunedin said:
Use of a dyneema soft shackle may protect the alloy better
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I'd want to take a file to the edges of the hole in the toe rail first.

If the cleat is mounted to the deck, ISTM that it doesn't much matter if it's below the top of the toe rail. Yes it'll have to go up and over, but the top is nicely rounded, so what's the problem? It's only be used when coming alongside or in benign conditions when you're using one line for both springs, because you'd never do that in a blow, would you?
 
Stemar said:
I'd want to take a file to the edges of the hole in the toe rail first.

If the cleat is mounted to the deck, ISTM that it doesn't much matter if it's below the top of the toe rail. Yes it'll have to go up and over, but the top is nicely rounded, so what's the problem? It's only be used when coming alongside or in benign conditions when you're using one line for both springs, because you'd never do that in a blow, would you?
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I would strongly recommend that Refueler does not take a file to his toerail, I am sure he knows the reason why he shouldn't though.
 
Fr J Hackett said:
I would strongly recommend that Refueler does not take a file to his toerail, I am sure he knows the reason why he shouldn't though.
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I have just watched a guy take an orbital sander to his anodized mast ... I stood in total disbelief ....
He sanded the whole mast .... yes it looks nice now ... but ????

I have always followed the advice I was given many years ago as a young lad helping out in a small yard in Fareham .... only wash anodized - never use abrasives or strong solvents. Even T-Cut was a no-no ....
 
My dodgers are laced through the slots in the toe rail. To stop the lacing line from chafing on the sharp corners, I took the corners off. The sky hasn't fallen down. What harm have I done?
 
NormanS said:
My dodgers are laced through the slots in the toe rail. To stop the lacing line from chafing on the sharp corners, I took the corners off. The sky hasn't fallen down. What harm have I done?
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Removed the anodising, corrosion will set in and work its way under the remaining anodising gradually eating the toerail away. You will start to see a white powder build up on the abraded surfaces. If you need to protect such edges a simple piece of slit tubing pushed over the edge is all that's needed.
 
Fr J Hackett said:
Removed the anodising, corrosion will set in and work its way under the remaining anodising gradually eating the toerail away. You will start to see a white powder build up on the abraded surfaces. If you need to protect such edges a simple piece of slit tubing pushed over the edge is all that's needed.
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Well, there's been nothing like that in the ten or so years since doing it.
 
Fr J Hackett said:
Removed the anodising, corrosion will set in and work its way under the remaining anodising gradually eating the toerail away. You will start to see a white powder build up on the abraded surfaces. If you need to protect such edges a simple piece of slit tubing pushed over the edge is all that's needed.
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Good point. I was thinking of the risk of a sharp edge cutting the dyneema.
 
To anodize aluminum, you need to123:
  1. Clean and degrease your aluminum with a Scotch-Brite pad and a degreaser.
  2. Etch your aluminum in a lye bath for 3-5 minutes and rinse with distilled water.
  3. Attach your aluminum to a wire and connect it to a power source.
  4. Place your aluminum in a tub of a 1:1 mixture of distilled water and battery acid.
  5. Run the power to your aluminum for 45 minutes to create an oxide layer on the surface.

You can contain the bath of liquids with some plasticene without the need to remove the toe rail
 
Many years ago I increased the diameter of a drainage hole in my toerail using a round file. No indication of anything gone or going wrong in those years.
 
Refueler said:
When have you removed the lacing and given a good look ?

Maybe you didn't break through the anodize ..
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The dodgers come off every autumn, and are replaced every spring. I used a countersinking bit to take off the sharp corners. Absolutely no problems with any deterioration of the toerail. Mind you, I don't do bling.
 
rogerthebodger said:
To anodize aluminum, you need to123:
  1. Clean and degrease your aluminum with a Scotch-Brite pad and a degreaser.
  2. Etch your aluminum in a lye bath for 3-5 minutes and rinse with distilled water.
  3. Attach your aluminum to a wire and connect it to a power source.
  4. Place your aluminum in a tub of a 1:1 mixture of distilled water and battery acid.
  5. Run the power to your aluminum for 45 minutes to create an oxide layer on the surface.

You can contain the bath of liquids with some plasticene without the need to remove the toe rail
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Not for me tks ..
 
OK ... went to see my mate who owns a metals biz ... five euro changed hands .... 45cm long piece of 30mm x 30mm L anodized alloy sorted.

Next stop was local fishing shop ... two medium nylon cleats.

52EEX9Vl.jpg


Toe rail is 30mm flat section below the rounded top ...

ikEtognl.jpg


Idea is to cut L into two lengths to bridge toe-rail freeing ports and taper excess so that feet etc are not caught.
 
That's exactly what I did. I had to slightly round off the sharp angle, so that it fitted up against the bulb on the toerail.
 
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