Cleat - poor match in size ... how to fit

Refueler said:
I am a dedicated supporter of the midships cleat ... it is one item that can make single-handed so much easier ...
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Yes, but even more so if not on fixed cleat but led back to genoa winch to take up slack, so can stay on board by the controls. Jumping off with a rope when solo generally a bad idea as boats get bigger / heavier.
 
dunedin said:
Yes, but even more so if not on fixed cleat but led back to genoa winch to take up slack, so can stay on board by the controls. Jumping off with a rope when solo generally a bad idea as boats get bigger / heavier.
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Who said anything about jumping off ???

Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ...

You can have on winch if you want - but usually line set at similar length as 'midships to cockpit aft' is good enough.
 
Refueler said:
Who said anything about jumping off ???

Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ...

You can have on winch if you want - but usually line set at similar length as 'midships to cockpit aft' is good enough.
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We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.
Do however you prefer, but don't dismiss the adjustable version back to winch until you have tried it a few times.
And just trying to save you effort - both fixing a cleat and in use.
 
dunedin said:
We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.
Do however you prefer, but don't dismiss the adjustable version back to winch until you have tried it a few times.
And just trying to save you effort - both fixing a cleat and in use.
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The advantage of going back to a winch is the ability to snub the load rather than a fixed line giving a shock load onto the cleat and its mountings. You won't always get the approach and speed just right.
 
dunedin said:
We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.
Do however you prefer, but don't dismiss the adjustable version back to winch until you have tried it a few times.
And just trying to save you effort - both fixing a cleat and in use.
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I agree ... haven't disagreed ..... I also have used both ways ..

In fact used the winch method for backing out of a berth ..
 
If you wanted to keep the side deck clear of anything fixed, you might consider a Snatch Block fitted with a Snap Shackle. Before coming alongside snap the block to the Toe Rail open the cheek and drop the Spring line in. Lead the line aft to a cockpit winch.

You already do a similar drill.. " Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ... "

The only difference is using a Snatch Block, which you can remove once no longer required.
 
veshengro said:
If you wanted to keep the side deck clear of anything fixed, you might consider a Snatch Block fitted with a Snap Shackle. Before coming alongside snap the block to the Toe Rail open the cheek and drop the Spring line in. Lead the line aft to a cockpit winch.

You already do a similar drill.. " Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ... "

The only difference is using a Snatch Block, which you can remove once no longer required.
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Post #20 last sentence ;) 😁
 
Fr J Hackett said:
The advantage of going back to a winch is the ability to snub the load rather than a fixed line giving a shock load onto the cleat and its mountings. You won't always get the approach and speed just right.
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It's perfectly possible to surge a line with a turn round a cleat.
 
NormanS said:
In my experience, all lines have a fixed length. And your point is?
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As was being discussed using a fixed line from a cleat to the shore cleat does not allow snubbing it stops the boat and pulls it into the pontoon with opposite helm. A line lead through or around the cleat or block and back to the cockpit around a winch allows you to surge the line and is more gentle and kind to the cleat and its fixings. Quite obvious really if you think about it, what's your point?
 
Iliade said:
I'd just bolt it to the deck in the traditional manner. The folding aspect then helps reduce toe stubbing, which I always used to do on my old boat's lovely 10" midships cleats.
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The problem there is that the cleat will then be well below toe-rail height ... and lead of line would be through sharp edged freeing ports in the rail.
Second I am trying to avoid dismantling factory fitted panelling under deck .....

One post I saw - guy had cut away a section of the vertical toe-rail and fitted cleat in line ... the job he had done looked as though it was factory original. I'm not that good !!
 
Fr J Hackett said:
As was being discussed using a fixed line from a cleat to the shore cleat does not allow snubbing it stops the boat and pulls it into the pontoon with opposite helm. A line lead through or around the cleat or block and back to the cockpit around a winch allows you to surge the line and is more gentle and kind to the cleat and its fixings. Quite obvious really if you think about it, what's your point?
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If I'm going in alongside a pontoon or similar, I have the end of a line made fast to the base of the midship cleat. On approach, the bight of the line is dropped over the pontoon cleat, a turn round the midship cleat then allows the boat to move ahead to the desired position by surging the line round the cleat, while motoring or sailing gently ahead. No winch or winching required.
The only time that I would possibly have a dedicated fixed length line made fast at both ends, would be if I was berthing at my own private pontoon berth, which doesn't exist. This method also allows me, on leaving, to spring the stern out, then go astern, casting off from the midship cleat, and retrieve the line at leisure. Quite obvious really, but if you prefer to lead your line to another point, then that's your privilege. It's whatever is more convenient.
 
All good and we all devise our ways of working ...

What has prompted me on this thread is the mess that occurred berthing after a glorious trip couple of days ago. I had already decided I wanted to add a midships line handling point ... the berthing showed up the lack off.
Guy looking after lines decided to first do a line from bow onto the pontoon .. giving me no stopping action .. plus line being so far fwd on the boat was hard for rudder / engine to counter stern swinging out.
It led to a right embarrassing episode - a mess which I cannot remember ever having had before ..

Before anyone starts - I accept my error in not making my preference known before going alongside - in assuming guy would act in a way I expected. I never expected his action - given that he is a vastly experienced ex owner skipper of a 60ft charter Schooner.

With a midships line point - control of boat would have been better and as most appreciate - rudder / engine combo can hold boat literally indefinitely alongside ...

It looks like a temporary shackle or clip will be used on the toe-rail until I have a final solution organised. PLUS my briefing of all on board as to what I want to be done BEFORE getting alongside !!
 
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