Refueler
Well-known member
I am a dedicated supporter of the midships cleat ... it is one item that can make single-handed so much easier ...
Then do it properly and stop buggering about with half arsed solutionsI am a dedicated supporter of the midships cleat ... it is one item that can make single-handed so much easier ...
Then do it properly and stop buggering about with half arsed solutions![]()
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True. I got away with a line tied to a midships stanchion base, but that was on a 24 footer that was built like a tankI am a dedicated supporter of the midships cleat ... it is one item that can make single-handed so much easier ...
Yes, but even more so if not on fixed cleat but led back to genoa winch to take up slack, so can stay on board by the controls. Jumping off with a rope when solo generally a bad idea as boats get bigger / heavier.I am a dedicated supporter of the midships cleat ... it is one item that can make single-handed so much easier ...
Yes, but even more so if not on fixed cleat but led back to genoa winch to take up slack, so can stay on board by the controls. Jumping off with a rope when solo generally a bad idea as boats get bigger / heavier.
We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.Who said anything about jumping off ???
Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ...
You can have on winch if you want - but usually line set at similar length as 'midships to cockpit aft' is good enough.
The advantage of going back to a winch is the ability to snub the load rather than a fixed line giving a shock load onto the cleat and its mountings. You won't always get the approach and speed just right.We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.
Do however you prefer, but don't dismiss the adjustable version back to winch until you have tried it a few times.
And just trying to save you effort - both fixing a cleat and in use.
We use both techniques - for home berth have pre-sized rope. For unfamiliar away berths bring back to winch so can adjust to right length.
Do however you prefer, but don't dismiss the adjustable version back to winch until you have tried it a few times.
And just trying to save you effort - both fixing a cleat and in use.
Post #20 last sentenceIf you wanted to keep the side deck clear of anything fixed, you might consider a Snatch Block fitted with a Snap Shackle. Before coming alongside snap the block to the Toe Rail open the cheek and drop the Spring line in. Lead the line aft to a cockpit winch.
You already do a similar drill.. " Nice large eye in line end ... motor up ... step fwd to midships - drop eye over shore cleat / bollard ... smartly back to cockpit let boat cont fwd till line is taut - helm towards dock, slow engine ... "
The only difference is using a Snatch Block, which you can remove once no longer required.
Post #20 last sentence![]()
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It's perfectly possible to surge a line with a turn round a cleat.The advantage of going back to a winch is the ability to snub the load rather than a fixed line giving a shock load onto the cleat and its mountings. You won't always get the approach and speed just right.
Not if it's a fixed length it isn't.It's perfectly possible to surge a line with a turn round a cleat.
In my experience, all lines have a fixed length. And your point is?Not if it's a fixed length it isn't.
As was being discussed using a fixed line from a cleat to the shore cleat does not allow snubbing it stops the boat and pulls it into the pontoon with opposite helm. A line lead through or around the cleat or block and back to the cockpit around a winch allows you to surge the line and is more gentle and kind to the cleat and its fixings. Quite obvious really if you think about it, what's your point?In my experience, all lines have a fixed length. And your point is?
I'd just bolt it to the deck in the traditional manner. The folding aspect then helps reduce toe stubbing, which I always used to do on my old boat's lovely 10" midships cleats.
If I'm going in alongside a pontoon or similar, I have the end of a line made fast to the base of the midship cleat. On approach, the bight of the line is dropped over the pontoon cleat, a turn round the midship cleat then allows the boat to move ahead to the desired position by surging the line round the cleat, while motoring or sailing gently ahead. No winch or winching required.As was being discussed using a fixed line from a cleat to the shore cleat does not allow snubbing it stops the boat and pulls it into the pontoon with opposite helm. A line lead through or around the cleat or block and back to the cockpit around a winch allows you to surge the line and is more gentle and kind to the cleat and its fixings. Quite obvious really if you think about it, what's your point?