Chain marking

[DeeGee]

There have been threads on this before, but can I impose on your goodwill to address it again.

Someone once posted a most elegant method/code for marking chain. I remarked on it at the time, but did not make a note. Now, I am faced with the need to redo my chain marking, and the naff old system needs updating.

So, what is the best coding method, and do these fancy ideas like cable ties - black, coloured or flourescent - or link inserts made of coloured plastic, work?



<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[cynthia]

The plastic chain inserts work well - one colour to donate each measurement ending in 5 then a different colour for 10, two of this for 20, followed by a third colour for 30/40 etc. Only been using the markers two seasons, but all have stayed in place so far, despite frequent anchorings. Really easy to see exactly how much chain is out.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[hylas]

I believe you should soon have an article talking about that subject on PBO..

Up to my opinion.. the best way is to use the small "diabolos" called "Rainbow markers" and manufactured by the Italian manufacturer OSCULATI FORNITURE NAUTICHE ( www.osculati.it)

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[longjohnsilver]

Force 4 catalogue, page 75, coloured inserts 40 for £12-95. This is probably what you're looking for.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[DeeGee]

I have now done some searches back to the dawn of the board...

I want a system that is resilient to damage, simple and requires no complicated tables or memory to translate colours or whatever to numbers.

Reading the threads from before, I think that two cable ties, every 3m, will do me. By putting two ties, the loss of one of them will be obvious, and an additional one to replace will be easy. Ordinary cable ties will do, and they will be counted as the chain is let out, this obviates any coding.

There doesn't seem any other answer to the darkness problem than to use a light - decklights or a headlamp should be ok. I know we could never read our red-paint markings even by torch, but I think cable ties, uncut, should be fairly visible.

I am not suggesting this will be the best for everyone, but I think it will do me until someone comes up with a much better solution.

It may be that these diabolos, or inserts, are just the ticket, but I can't help wondering if they will fall out. I could have got Green, White, Blue from Mailspeed, and then counted out the chain with "George W Bush-one, George W Bush-two...", that might still be a goer. It has the simplicity I want, and a missing marker would stand out, as missing from the sequence.

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[Mirelle]

Snag - you will, you really will, let chain out in a hurry, sometime soon, and lose track of your counting.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Abigail]

Haven't tried it yet but really liked the sound of the Pardey's method of pieces of strong nylon webbing stitched on, and stitched in bands - so they can felt as well as seen, and don't rip the hands (as cable ties can). They also make the suggestion of effectively double ending the markings so you can end for end the chain before regalvanising it.

It's more work to do of course ....



<hr width=100% size=1>Sarah&Pip

 

[longmoor]

ALL SEEMS A BIT COMPLICATED TO ME. FLAKE OUT THE APPROXIMATE LENGTH ON THE DECK (EASY, HOW FAR IS IT FROM SAY, ANCHOR LOCKER TO FIRST STANCHION? 6 FEET? THAT'L DO FOR TWO METRES. THERE AND BACK IS FOUR. THERE AND BACK THEN HALF THERE AND BACK IS SIX; THERE AND BACK TWICE IS EIGHT, ETC) TIE THE CHAIN TO A CLEAT AT THE LENGTH REQUIRED AND LET IT OUT WHEN READY. LONGER SCOPE NEEDED, GO TO NEXT STANCHION OR TO THE SHROUDS OR ANY POINT YOU HAVE PRE MEASURED.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[LadyInBed]

This is the method I use, it works well and is easy to detect and count in the dark.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[duke]

I recently marked a new 60 metre galvanised
chain as follows:

10 metre - one blue section (6 links long)
20 metres - two green sections (6 links green- 6 links plain - 6 links green)
30 metres - three black sections (6 links black- 6 links plain-6 links black- 6 links plain- 6 links black.
40 metres - four white sections etc etc
50 metres - five red sections etc. etc.

Even if I don't get to count the sections, I think I will remember the colour code - if only because of the fact I did it myself!

Regards,

Duke.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[david_bagshaw]

Personaly we use coloured cable ties , 2 of each colour at the length,from rs components, still on the first bag from 5 years ago,(on average anchor at least twice a day in the main summer cruise) using a code loosely based on snooker

Resolution Chain Markings.

Length Colour

In Mtr Of Cable Ties

10 red

15 red and yellow

20 yellow

25 yellow and green

30 green

35 green and blue

40 blue

45 blue and orange

50 orange

55 orange and black

60 black

65 black and red

70 red

75 red and yellow.


plus a multi colour one for when the anchour is just about to break the surface.

<hr width=100% size=1>David
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.euroboating.net>http://www.euroboating.net</A>

 

[vyv_cox]

I find it incredible that this topic attracts so much posting. Hardly rocket science, is it? I find no problem with painting one stripe, about 6 inches wide, for 10 metres, 2 for twenty metres, etc in red paint that I have left over from my Bukh engine. It is almost certainly Smoothrite. It takes about half an hour every other season, lasts perfectly well despite frequent anchoring. I was tempted to buy some of the plastic inserts as a trial but I find them almost invisible by comparison with my daubed stripes.

People talk about not being able to see painted marks in the dark. Don't they have deck lights? or at least a head torch?

I see little need for intermediate 5 metre marking, although there is a little piece of blue polypropylene line at 5 metres that has been there for years.

Just in case anyone forgets this complicated system the whole lot is written on the inside of the anchor well lid.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[Plum]

Everyone has their own system, it seems, so here is mine. If I am anchoring overnight and have room to swing I use 5 times the depth of chain. Therefore my chain is marked at every 5 metres by painting the number of links to indicate the multiples of five (paint 3 links for 15m of chain) then I add a cable tie to each painted link for a belt and braces and for a feel in the dark. Therefore, if I am anchoring in 7m of water I let out the chain until I have got to the 7-painted-links (7 cable ties) marker. I find this foolproof for me. Ok, if I want a 3:1 scope I have to do a bit a mental arithmatic.

<hr width=100% size=1>

 

[DeeGee]

Let the chain out quickly, yes, probably - but surely counting anything, red bands, cable ties is pretty much the same problem, ie only an electronic/mechanical chain counter would be foolproof. My chain has red paint on links at 5m intervals, with one link at 5, two at 10 and so on. I find that counting the painted links requires stopping and looking, whilst the cable ties should be countable on the fly, as it were.

I dunno .... I once saw a chain link counter, mechanical, which had a pinwheel on the same pitch as the chain, and was able to just count the links - I think it had a gear inside so that it just displayed metres, like some chandlers have for measuring rope. I wish someone would market this counter - no electronics, mind! And it could probably have a wooden version ;-)


<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[DeeGee]

Aha, a traditionalist! You are, of course, quite right, but a) I have an electric windlass, this would not work so well, and b) it does so knacker the foredeck surface. As Mirelle says, you may want to drop a lot of chain in a hurry, and there would be no time for flaking out properly. Maybe the answer then is to let out the lot in a hurry and then pull back at one's leisure?

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[DeeGee]

Do these strips go through a windlass gypsy OK? I am not sure what the advantage over ties is, other than being more friendly on the hands, but we use a big pair of gardening gloves for handling the chain, which is mostly below decks to prevent it 'pyramiding'.

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[DeeGee]

How many points for an orange ;>) ?

Actually, this seems a pretty sensible scheme - you use two cable ties, presumably with one being redundant and thus easily maintained. The colour saves actually counting. When I fixed my 2 ties at 3m, I made sure that the ratchety fastening was inside the link - do you find that they migrate at all?

[PS why not the rainbow ROYGBIV ?]

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[DeeGee]

Sounds like an awful lot of painting. My chain was painted with just one colour, but the painted links need redoing (or a new, more easily maintained system, which is why I am here) as they dull, chip and fade with time. Not that I am saying your method is any worse than any other, just a bit high maintenance and preparation. Sticking cable ties on takes seconds, painting takes minutes. Cable ties can be replaced in the cable tier, I wouldn't want to do that with paint.

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[DeeGee]

I think that is similar to the painted system on my chain. I just don't want to do a repaint each couple of years (I left mine for a fair bit longer, and they are difficult to read now) - it strikes me that the cable tie has so much going for it. It could be used as a direct replacement for paint, if you use colour as David Bagshaw uses them. The key is that cable ties are so instant and easy, that one can double them up and so detect instantly when one has busted - it can be replaced there and then, or certainly without getting out paint and rousing out all the chain to get to the 'missing link' if you would pardon the pun....

<hr width=100% size=1>Black Sugar - the sweetest of all

 

[Robin2]

And if you forget you can always come back to the forum and check your old post!

<hr width=100% size=1>