Calorifier connections - Adding Bobil heat exchanger

[catlotion]

I'm in the process of plumbing in a Bobil heat exchanger to my existing calorifier (Bavaria 30 Cruiser) but a bit puzzled by the existing cold water connections. There are two cold water connections at the bottom of the calorifier with the PRV. I need to tee into this to add the heat exchanger loop but not sure how best to do it.

Any ideas please? sorry about the rubbish photos. It's the brass block at the bottom...

 

[Boater Sam]

There is only one cold connection, the other is the drain away from the PRV.

 

[catlotion]

Ah-ha! makes sense! Haven't had a chance to check where the pipes run... Always tricky doing these projects when you're not there often...

The PRV weeped a bit before and it came out of the red cap so I assumed that's where it dumped the water...

 

[Boater Sam]

If the prv weeps from under the red knob, you need a new one, the stem seal has failed.

 

[lustyd]

Can I ask what the heat exchanger is for? Can't picture what you're up to

 

[wingcommander]

The Bobil is a direct feed water heat exchanger connected to your existing Chinaspacer.

 

[catlotion]

If the prv weeps from under the red knob, you need a new one, the stem seal has failed.

yeah, it weeped a bit and I gave it a few twiddles and it stopped. I also added a mini Jabsco accumulator shortly after so that might have helped too...

 

[catlotion]

The Bobil is a direct feed water heat exchanger connected to your existing Chinaspacer.

that's the one. I still haven't got it plumbed in yet but getting there. Have you made yours more permanent yet? Any more feedback on how effective it's been?

Also working on my air duct flap automation project (didn't want to rely on a manual switchover) - but that's another story...

 

[lustyd]

The Bobil is a direct feed water heat exchanger connected to your existing Chinaspacer.

Thanks wasn't aware of that as a solution. I've been considering getting an eber hydro to heat the water

 

[wingcommander]

Seems that you can get the Chinaspacer combined unit also now. My installation is still as was, I do need to increase the diameter of the Bobil supplied connection tee's and non return valve as I notice a flow reduction in the hot .The domestic pump changes tone and sounds too work harder .I realise the Bobil unit itself will add to this, but the main restriction are the fittings.. My change over flap is manual, around 20 min is normally all that's required, then turn off heater , flip the flap to remove residual heat from the unit then switch off the mini Bobil pump. You can usually hear this running if you forget.

 

[catlotion]

Seems that you can get the Chinaspacer combined unit also now. My installation is still as was, I do need to increase the diameter of the Bobil supplied connection tee's and non return valve as I notice a flow reduction in the hot .The domestic pump changes tone and sounds too work harder .I realise the Bobil unit itself will add to this, but the main restriction are the fittings.. My change over flap is manual, around 20 min is normally all that's required, then turn off heater , flip the flap to remove residual heat from the unit then switch off the mini Bobil pump. You can usually hear this running if you forget.

Thanks. Interesting. I was also concerned about small pipes. Have added quite a bit of 15mm push fit to my design but there's still this bit with the one way valves. Might swap for bigger then...