Buying small motor boat - Seller has not access to water to run engine.!

onemanorthree

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The OP was simply offered a bit of advice bearing in mind the above. Surely taking a cautious approach isn't terrible advice
I'm grateful for all the advise in this thread, even though there is a lot of disagreement. I've purchased a compression tester anyway
as I'll be buying a outboard at some point and have a small 2T that I'd like to test anyway.

One extra conern for me in this is that I don't have a car that will tow these boats, so I need to make my decision, then go and get it towed,
Just makes it all a little more awkward.
 

Hot Property

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I'm grateful for all the advise in this thread, even though there is a lot of disagreement. I've purchased a compression tester anyway
as I'll be buying a outboard at some point and have a small 2T that I'd like to test anyway.

One extra conern for me in this is that I don't have a car that will tow these boats, so I need to make my decision, then go and get it towed,
Just makes it all a little more awkward.

Ah that snippet of information is important. Now you are reliant on others to tow it for you....

Perhaps you would be better off buying at a boatyard or hardstanding adjacent to where you want to go boating, the trailer doesn't have to be road legal. You can do a sea trial to confirm everything works.

A very different proposition to the Fletcher you were interested in and, I suspect, a more expensive one.
 

QBhoy

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I am a 50 year plus specialist small engine mechanic.

Two stroke compressions are subtly different from four stroke compressions.

I have purchased thousands of two stroke powered motorbikes for resale and have repaired thousands and raced several.

From a 1924 Levis with a deflector piston to Yamaha TZ 750 four cylinder 100 BHP Racing bikes.

A compression test is never more than turning the engine over. If it has a bit of resistance that end of it is pretty sure to be OK.

The one that cant be tested for easily is crankcase compression. That opens up a world of grief, especially on multi cylinder two strokes.

Methinks QBhoy is over egging the pudding.............................
Think others are guilty of over egging and suggesting that a simple compression test, is something you need a bloody PHD to perform. It’s simple stuff ! Why wouldn’t you ? Some Yamaha 2 stroke jet ski engines require a top end rebuild every 100 hours or close… what better way to check the health of an engine quickly, than a quick compression check ? Those that think it’s a hell of a complicated task and not worth it…I can only assume, have no idea. Crazy stuff to me.
If you can change a spark plug and turn a key…you can do a compression test. It’s that simple.
 

QBhoy

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Anyway. In case you’re after any model info on the boat. I’m almost sure she’s quite a rare (these days) fletcher arrowstreak 161. I’m likely far too geeky on fletchers for my own good. Had and currently have…far too many for one man.
 

Portofino

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Anyway. In case you’re after any model info on the boat. I’m almost sure she’s quite a rare (these days) fletcher arrowstreak 161. I’m likely far too geeky on fletchers for my own good. Had and currently have…far too many for one man.
What’s your view on the OB ( assuming it’s got enough compression ) ? Good / Dud / any Gottcha s not yet mentioned?Or pass on it for these reasons………?
 

QBhoy

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What’s your view on the OB ( assuming it’s got enough compression ) ? Good / Dud / any Gottcha s not yet mentioned?Or pass on it for these reasons………?
Had a merc version of that 90 years ago. Same engine. One of the 3 cylinders was down on compression from a sticking ring (luckily). Managed to free it’s off over a 48 hour period by leaving oil down it and rotating by hand every now and then. Brought the compression back up. Generally on that particular engine, you’ll want to see early 100’s psi compression readings across all three cylinders. And obviously an even spread within about 10% of each other ideally. Cheap gauges can show low or high compression by a small margin and should be considered, but even a cheap gauge should be accurate for its consistency in variance across the cylinders.
So ideally more than 100 psi would be what he is looking for. Anything less is on the verge of failing. And any big variance in the readings is a big no no.
Obviously being a 2 stroke, he won’t need to open the throttle to get the true reading (like a 4 stroke would).
He should also check the function of the oil injection system. It’s fixtures and fittings too. They can be fairly reliable on these models (unlike the larger v6 models of that era), but can be in doubt…hence the reason for a compression check really.
I’d also crack open the gearbox oil drain screw for a look at the oil. Any more than a little metallic shine on the plug and it’s a concern. Will always get some of that with it being a straight cut dog clutch system, but excessive metallic particles shown is a worry.
The power trim pump needs to be working too. A second hand unit will cost £300 upwards and about £1000 new, if he can even find one.
 

PaulRainbow

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Think others are guilty of over egging and suggesting that a simple compression test, is something you need a bloody PHD to perform. It’s simple stuff ! Why wouldn’t you ? Some Yamaha 2 stroke jet ski engines require a top end rebuild every 100 hours or close… what better way to check the health of an engine quickly, than a quick compression check ? Those that think it’s a hell of a complicated task and not worth it…I can only assume, have no idea. Crazy stuff to me.
If you can change a spark plug and turn a key…you can do a compression test. It’s that simple.

Absolute rubbish.

A compression test tells you very little with any engine, never mind a 2T outboard.

Big ends, little ends, mains, etc etc etc, compression test tells you nothing about those. A low compression might be a sticky ring, a good compression tells nothing about anything else, practically pointless.
 

QBhoy

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Absolute rubbish.

A compression test tells you very little with any engine, never mind a 2T outboard.

Big ends, little ends, mains, etc etc etc, compression test tells you nothing about those. A low compression might be a sticky ring, a good compression tells nothing about anything else, practically pointless.
Honestly. The point of it for this purpose, is very valid. As in a quick indication of health on an old engine. For me it’s rule number one on an engine like this.
A compression test, just for your future reference, is indeed useful for indicating a few things.
Wear of top end
If it’s low on compression and not due to rings sticking, it can also mean that the bottom end and crank has suffered damage too. By means of worn or broken parts like rings, piston or liner damage, can often mean that the debris from such things has also damaged the crank or elsewhere.
If there are signs of lack of oil injection or supply, this obviously means that elsewhere isn’t getting lubricated either. And let me assure you…if your bottom end is compromised badly enough, you will certainly find evidence of this with a compression test of the top end. Who was it that told you all this ?
Cylinder head being compromised is another thing that would be indicated (if applicable to the particular engine testing).
Even just removing the plugs of an engine for a look can tell a good or bad story.
Jeez. Getting tired of explaining this now. It’s just a simple and quick test to give a rough idea of health.
Let me assure you…if a fella turns up to any mercury or Yamaha dealer with an old 2 stroke that’s reporting running issues mechanically…the very first thing they will do, if perform a compression test on the thing.
Hope that helps you out a little
 

QBhoy

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I take it
Absolute rubbish.

A compression test tells you very little with any engine, never mind a 2T outboard.

Big ends, little ends, mains, etc etc etc, compression test tells you nothing about those. A low compression might be a sticky ring, a good compression tells nothing about anything else, practically pointless.
I take it you know where the “little end” is ? And the mention of “big end” as well as “main”. Tells me a story !! I rest my case. The fella can take or leave my advice. Up to him. But a 3k boat can soon turn into a 5k dent in the wallet…just to have it still worth 3k after wards.
Steering
Gearbox
Trim pump
Top end
Transom
Stringers
Pick any two or three of these items to let him down, on a boat like this…and you’ll soon be £1000-£2000 out of pocket again.
If the engine is compromised…he’s left with the value of the trailer and some scrap parts.
If a 3k boat turns into a 5k spend…it’s a tragedy. Because we all know that if he had spent 5k in the 5k value of the market…then he is getting a better boat in the first place. Instead of left with a 3k boat and 5k out of pocket. Happens all too often I’m afraid. Let’s try and help the guy out best wee can. Advising him to just take a gamble (especially in this market)…could and has easily put folk off boating for life ! Worst case, put lives at risk.
Let’s be a little responsible and sensible in the advice we give. So much knowledge and experience within this group…and from guys like yourself too I’m sure. We all have something useful to to give, in different areas…Let’s use and share it properly.
 

PaulRainbow

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Honestly. The point of it for this purpose, is very valid. As in a quick indication of health on an old engine. For me it’s rule number one on an engine like this.
A compression test, just for your future reference, is indeed useful for indicating a few things.
Wear of top end
If it’s low on compression and not due to rings sticking, it can also mean that the bottom end and crank has suffered damage too. By means of worn or broken parts like rings, piston or liner damage, can often mean that the debris from such things has also damaged the crank or elsewhere.
If there are signs of lack of oil injection or supply, this obviously means that elsewhere isn’t getting lubricated either. And let me assure you…if your bottom end is compromised badly enough, you will certainly find evidence of this with a compression test of the top end. Who was it that told you all this ?
Cylinder head being compromised is another thing that would be indicated (if applicable to the particular engine testing).
Even just removing the plugs of an engine for a look can tell a good or bad story.
Jeez. Getting tired of explaining this now. It’s just a simple and quick test to give a rough idea of health.
Let me assure you…if a fella turns up to any mercury or Yamaha dealer with an old 2 stroke that’s reporting running issues mechanically…the very first thing they will do, if perform a compression test on the thing.
Hope that helps you out a little

Thanks, but it's still nonsense.

I started building engines in the 70's i know what a compression test is. It's great for telling you compression, but there's a bit more going on in an engine than compression.
 

QBhoy

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Thanks, but it's still nonsense.

I started building engines in the 70's i know what a compression test is. It's great for telling you compression, but there's a bit more going on in an engine than compression.
So you’ll surely know that if your “little end” is compromised, you’ll undoubtedly suffer wear or complete failure of the top end. Damage to piston, rings and liner. Will a compression check pick this up…? Of course it will.
Look…hopefully what I’ve said can be of use to the guy. And hopefully it’s all good and has strong compression. If she doesn’t…he will be glad of that 10 mins and couple of quid he spent on the test.
I’m not one for google or YouTube…but I could almost bet my life that if you ask the internet “how to check a 2 stroke engine” in the search box…you’ll be faced with endless lines of sources with compression test at the top of the list !
 

QBhoy

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Did you not know that engines have big ends as well as mains ? That tells a story.
Bottom end and main or crank, would be more familiar to me perhaps. Anyway. Time we stopped all arguing and wished the guy well with the viewing of the boat. All the best
 
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