Buying small motor boat - Seller has not access to water to run engine.!

[onemanorthree]

All, first post here.

I am buying a second boat to put on a an inland lake (have a Bayliner on the sea).
The boat is a Fletcher GTO with a Mariner 90 hp. The problem is that the boat is no on water, it's in a storage yard and he has no access to water on his site.
He said he'd start the engine for me and run it for a few minutes so I can see it starts and runs ok, but I'm obviously concerned.

Is it normal to buy a boat without seeing the engine run for at least 10-15 mins.

I have a container that can carry 30ltrs or water, should I bring this and fit the engine into that?

 

[Portofino]

He’s probably gonna run it sans Eau before you arrive anyhow .If that’s what you are worried about ? Minor overheats , cracking rings , distorting valve seating etc .HG comprised ? .Impeller shredding?

I think a 2T water cooled cylinder + piston can withstand extra heat from no cooling water than a 4 T with its valves .FWIW .

Yes ask him if it’s ok to dunk the leg in a water butt when you turn up .Doesn’t matter where the water butt comes from .

 

[onemanorthree]

Thanks.

No, my concern is if I can really tell if the motor is good/running well or not based on the fact that it's only going to run for a few minutes out of water.
Is it not standard to see it running for a while in water? I've never bought an engine without it running in water.

 

[Portofino]

Yes it needs a water butt or muffs + tap ( but you say no water on site) so you can run it until you are satisfied.

 

[Rappey]

Even in neutral i feel that the exhaust through the prop will splash the water out of your small container in no time ?
A run in a waterbutt does not come close to running in water under load.
When buying a used outboard its often a leap of faith when its not afloat but if its not too old ànd the seller guarantees theres nothing wrong with it then why not as outboards are usually very reliable.
Ive previously bought a 90, a 85, another 90 and a 50 all without being able to test afloat but all were very good engines.

 

[QBhoy]

Make sure it’s ram on muffs and a hose but most importantly of all…if she’s a 2 stroke…it’s an absolute must, to perform a compression check on her.

 

[ChromeDome]

Starting it dry will ruin the impeller in seconds.

I do agree that idling in a barrel says nothing about how it works under load.

Would you buy a car without driving it first?

 

[Boathook]

Starting it dry will ruin the impeller in seconds.

I do agree that idling in a barrel says nothing about how it works under load.

Would you buy a car without driving it first?

I agree about the impeller not lasting long. When you take it to bits it looks ok but just doesn't work.

 

[QBhoy]

Just read your post again there. Absolutely the most important thing is to do a compression test on her. You can (and ultimately have to) do this without actually starting the engine. This will quickly and easily tell you the health of the engine and tell you fundamentally if she has anything critically wrong or beyond financially viable repair, with reference to the actual engine itself.
Not being able to run her on a hose may be a gamble or a bargaining tool, thereafter. If you can run her up, you could assess the health of the gearbox a little, by cracking open the gear oil drain screw and allow a little oil to show itself. Check this for excessive metallic debris and any sign of water. Check she engages gears too.
If you are super keen, you could perhaps fit a hose fitting outlet to that water tank, with a drill operated pump fitted in line on the hose between that and a set of muffs at the other end. Have the tank sat to allow gravity assist further. Likely not to be absolutely relied upon though. Producing such a contraption to the eyes of the seller alone, may just produce a behavioural reaction one way or the other, enough to give you confidence to buy or otherwise! Anyway. Just a thought. But can’t emphasise enough the importance of a compression test, above all else.

 

[Uricanejack]

I test run my OB with hose and muffs. Yamaha and Honda
It’s my fishing boat. I always flush in driveway after using in salt water. Disconect fuel hose and run till fuel system is dry.

We had a couple of big new mercury on large rib. they have a hose connection on cowling. (Commercial use run and flushed twice a week)
Used to flush after deployment using hose attachment on cowling. Wrecked them both. In under a year of use. Not enough cooling. Unfortunately we discovered the water from the hose connection does not circulate round the full cooling system.
Replaced at huge cost now use muffs on replacements. With no issues.

If looking at a used OB. Turn it by hand if it’s not been used for a long time. It should turn quite easily if you can get at the flywheel. Biggest issue with outboards is lack of regular use.
If it does you can probably get it running, just by cleaning out the fuel system. checking the electrical connections are clean dry and free of corrosion.
Might not be such a big problem in UK if you have low ethanol petrol.
look at the prop. Some wear and tear normal. Big dings might mean he has hit something and the seals at the bottom could be an issue. Marks on leading edge of fin.

Check the steering is free and easy. If left the piston can seize up.

 

[ChromeDome]

If it is a two stroke the internals should be oiled a bit from last running.

Compession test, willingness to start, nice idle, sounding good, checking tell tale, movement of steering/gear/remote etc. is all fine and can be done on the hard.

To know how it works, sounds, vibrates when pushing the boat, engages gear, hole shot, running at constant speed, idling after running at WOT and then some, you need to launch it.

Assess the risk if not testing it..

 

[[165042]]

Simplest and most sensible thing is to walk away if he won't arrange some water to run it properly.

 

[colhel]

Is the boat on a trailer? Can you carry out a proper trial on the lake or sea?

 

[PCUK]

As above, or can you move it to a tap?

 

[stelican]

If the owner is keen to sell he should be persuaded to at least take it to a water supply provided it's on a trailer. If not walk-away as there is too much of a risk of the problems as listed by others.

 

[ChromeDome]

If the owner is keen to sell he should be persuaded to at least take it to a water ..

..or be willing to sell at a price that reflects the transfer of risk to you!

 

[onemanorthree]

Thanks you all for your replies.

I don't know how to perform a compression test on an engine, so I think that's going to be a problem anyway.

It's a 2 Stroke, 90HP mercury, so perhaps I can have a look at how to do that and ask if he's willing to let me.
I do have a pressure tester, but I bought it for the leg of my outdrive to test the seals.

The sale price is quite cheap, so the risk is mitigated by that slightly.

 

[mabbs]

Compression test would tell you a lot.

 

[ChromeDome]

Compression test would tell you a lot.

Yes, as previously stated, but it won't tell you the same as a sea trial.

 

[onemanorthree]

Thanks. I've asked the seller if he has a compression tester and he doesn't. He said it's not been in water for 2 years but
was tested at that point. Right now I think this is too riskey for me.

I assume that if I'm going to buy a boat anyway that I'll have to do this on whatever I'm buying and should buy a tester anyway?
Would this do?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meccion-Cy...1_6?keywords=compression+test+for+boat&sr=8-6