Bought a Never splashed Colvic Countess 33 on eBay, Looking for infos

GregOddity

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Starting with 200 grit is going to take ages and a lot of paper to get 1.25mm off.

Yes & No. I start much lower. But I am very used to power sanders and how to use them, I do a pass at 60 then 80 then 120 then 200. this takes care of all deep areas and smooths out the surface. Having said that if it’s only a bit of surface crazing 200 is more than adequate as you do not want to "dig " into the material.
As for the paper, when you use sanding paper, there are Blocks of Rubber to clean the sanding paper which should be used often. Screwfix sells them for instance.

You just run the sander on it.

n9elTmW.jpg
 

GregOddity

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I don't know your wife obviously but if she sticks at that and removes 1.25" progressively and polishes it, she's a good un.:encouragement: I certainly wouldn't be doing it even if I was brasic. Do an hours work for someone and buy new.

Believe me when I say that she actually enjoys sanding. I did a few Black Terrazzo panels for our old house, and after showing her how to polish them she spent a weekend making them look like glass, and that was hard stones. Don't know what to say really, it's something she finds "Zen".
 

PaulRainbow

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60 grit, on a power sander, on perspex ?

That crazing is caused by UV degradation, it's been in the Sun for 40 years. Might want to start with a 9" grinder and only stop when you get through the crazing, which will be never.

There be more than that hatch that's crazed, that's for sure.
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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Next job on the list.
Hatch needs to come off then a good bit of sanding and polishing are going to happen. Start at 200 sandpaper progressively going up then using polishing pads to get it to 6000 grit.

Starting with 200 grit is going to take ages and a lot of paper to get 1.25mm off.

Yes & No. I start much lower. But I am very used to power sanders and how to use them, I do a pass at 60 then 80 then 120 then 200. this takes care of all deep areas and smooths out the surface. Having said that if it’s only a bit of surface crazing 200 is more than adequate as you do not want to "dig " into the material.
 

obmij

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Making it up as he's going along.

If it wasn't for the videos I'd think the whole thread was a fabrication.

Designing a carbon fibre grabrail, a mockup of a GUI for a monitoring system which is yet to be built, and planning to sand out the crazing from a deck hatch as the next big thing on the list

..a very pleasant way of whiling away the winter evenings, and maintaining the illusion of progress.

Most of us will have been somewhere similar at some point. I have for sure.
 

GregOddity

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Making it up as he's going along.

If it wasn't for the videos I'd think the whole thread was a fabrication.

Designing a carbon fibre grabrail, a mockup of a GUI for a monitoring system which is yet to be built, and planning to sand out the crazing from a deck hatch as the next big thing on the list

..a very pleasant way of whiling away the winter evenings, and maintaining the illusion of progress.

Most of us will have been somewhere similar at some point. I have for sure.

How many wind-ups can be squeezed into a single thread..................

C’mon guys. You’re from the country that invented “Brexit”, where reality is cloud 9 and facts don’t matter.
The British negotiators went to Brussels with such an attitude. Guess what? Irrelevant applies.
We do have a good laugh about it and love your “you have to do it like this because we say so” well it’s also just a tad irrelevant don’t you think?
Did we so far care? Or asked for your permission?
Does it look to you that I care in anyway whatsoever what you may or not think? Or say?
I try to be as polite as possible, not really questioning what you really know or not and respecting even your most not so polite comments. But sometimes you do provide a bit of entertainment. Unwittingly I’m sure. I can tell you there is a German forum that has a standing bet on comments here :cool::encouragement:
Now the fun part is this, if you’re already all riled up, wait till we do the bulkheads and the mast.:cool:

Here! Some wood for the fire.

Bulkheads

Thin aerospace grade aluminium plate 0.5mm and weave, Kevlar honeycombe core. You're the "specialists" work it out. This is actually worth a Case of Weiss Bier so be generous with your comments. :encouragement::cool:
The bonding to the hull is not represented here.

(Hint, Space... & Oddity)
qBEYO9l.jpg
 
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pvb

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Thin aerospace grade aluminium plate 0.5mm and weave, Kevlar honeycombe core. You're the "specialists" work it out. This is actually worth a Case of Weiss Bier so be generous with your comments. :encouragement::cool:
The bonding to the hull is not represented here.

(Hint, Space... & Oddity)
qBEYO9l.jpg

It might help if you knew how to spell "bulkhead".
 

anoccasionalyachtsman

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It's just that the widest part of the boat is 3.5m, and scaling off your drawing makes it 1.35m deep, and my point is that you really don't want to make that in one piece.
 

GregOddity

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It's just that the widest part of the boat is 3.5m, and scaling off your drawing makes it 1.35m deep, and my point is that you really don't want to make that in one piece.

I'm not sure which one I used for the cover but by the shape and piping inlets it’s not the widest one. The widest one is much flatter. But it does not go all the way on the widest part of the hull. it stops quite a way off. I also thought it went from side to side until we removed the furniture already installed. That image is also scaled to fit the A4 cover page.
I'm not about to show the "goodies" yet. Was just to win a case of beer to be honest :cool:
 
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GregOddity

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But Greg surely that bit on the bottom goes down into the keel and so it must be more or less at the widest point of the boat? No?

All of them do that, it’s a long keel boat and that shape is across great part of the hull length. Starts at the V berth and goes all the way to the half skeg in the transom. It could even be the transom bulkhead that some carpenter cut a portion off to fit something. Thats about 60cm before the rudder post. I did notice and the surveyer confirmed it has to be repaired or made new. Someone actualy cut a U shaped slice out of it about 50cm long and 15cm deep.
 
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anoccasionalyachtsman

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No, not really, the keel doesn't have any significant width until a fair way back. And that's definitely a midship section - there's no flare happening above it. So it is going to be 3.5 x 1.35 give or take 100mm.
 

GregOddity

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No, not really, the keel doesn't have any significant width until a fair way back. And that's definitely a midship section - there's no flare happening above it. So it is going to be 3.5 x 1.35 give or take 100mm.

I think the pics help understand better what we are discussing. I'm not sure now, but I think that one is the one on the last pic. I can look it up tomorrow. And like I said all the way to the transom.
I really can't tell which one it is, that’s just the cover for the job sheet for the lot and as it's only for our own use I just copy paste something to the front page to make it easier to find so no use trying to get dimensions out of that. The actual ones have dimensions and al the detail on them. That’s the only thing I got on this machine. I'll post all of them as we are doing them as we're also going to video the process.


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ZUMl1Jr.jpg
 
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