Antares 760 thread

[Pleinmont]

The outboard had no other support, just clamped to the pad on the outside of the rail. The other bracket is for the horseshoe lifebelt with the bit of elastic to hold it on

Brilliant - thanks Plum
Ah yes of course, lifebelt holder.

 

[Pleinmont]

After sanding back & antifouling, cutting & polishing the hull then Rydlyming the engine all in the same fortnight I seem to be making my way through my To-Do list at a rate of knots....
I'm now after some recommendations for cushion foam for replacing the insides of my saloon cushions.

Presume closed cell is best but they never get wet so not a problem if cheaper open cell.
I've got someone who can make decent zipped covers but just need some foam to cut to shape.

Any suggestions welcome, thanks.

 

[Jamie Dundee]

Overdue job done recently.... Replaced the buttons on the windlass as the rubber domes were cracking.

White one was easy - lots of spare wire inside to join with - filled the heat shrink connector crimps with grease first before heating them up. Staggered them to push back into the hole, easy peasy.
Black one was much harder... There was virtually no spare wire left after cutting the old button off (even going to where they were attached inside the button!) and had to drill out the opening wide enough to be able to push 2 connectors back in.
Standard set of buttons off Ebay for £20 - look identical to the old ones.
Took a couple hours longer than expected but all works fine again.

VERY late reply as I’ve not been on here for a while. Did the same when I bought mine, I found I didn’t need to change the electrics, the rubber buttons popped out and I popped the new ones in leaving everything else in situ. Have since made a cover for the windlass to prevent repeat damage.

 

[Pleinmont]

VERY late reply as I’ve not been on here for a while. Did the same when I bought mine, I found I didn’t need to change the electrics, the rubber buttons popped out and I popped the new ones in leaving everything else in situ. Have since made a cover for the windlass to prevent repeat damage.

Nice one. Yes that would have been much quicker and easier I was surprised how basic they were when I dismantled the old ones. Just a contact and spring under the cap.
I only realised how they were put together once I had taken the old ones out, broke off some mounting screws in the process and was halfway through replacing (already cut the wires etc.)!

 

[Pleinmont]

PS - Rydlyming the TAMD41 was clearly effective.

I took the boat out yesterday for a spin and the temp gauge was down to 81C (ish) cruising between 3200 and 3400rpm (normally do 3200rpm for 17knts when clean).
Even running at WOT for a few minutes it didn't go above low 80s.
It was up near 90C cruising before it was cleaned out (fitting the new oil cooler recently brought it down a few degrees straight away but the rest of the system obviously benefitted from a flush).

No visible leaking seals or problems so far post flushing either which was good I diluted it as per the instructions and there was the residual water in the cooling system before I started pumping too so it wasn't an overly strong mix in the end.
The actual mix in the tub surprisingly didn't foam or froth but I dropped a Rennie in a cupful to test and it gently fizzed away.
I did both forward and backflushes (2hrs each way) which helped I reckon.

Google Photos
Google Photos

 

[Plum]

PS - Rydlyming the TAMD41 was clearly effective.

I took the boat out yesterday for a spin and the temp gauge was down to 81C (ish) cruising between 3200 and 3400rpm (normally do 3200rpm for 17knts when clean).
Even running at WOT for a few minutes it didn't go above low 80s.
It was up near 90C cruising before it was cleaned out (fitting the new oil cooler recently brought it down a few degrees straight away but the rest of the system obviously benefitted from a flush).

No visible leaking seals or problems so far post flushing either which was good I diluted it as per the instructions and there was the residual water in the cooling system before I started pumping too so it wasn't an overly strong mix in the end.
The actual mix in the tub surprisingly didn't foam or froth but I dropped a Rennie in a cupful to test and it gently fizzed away.
I did both forward and backflushes (2hrs each way) which helped I reckon.

Nice one. Mine mostly runs as 82 but 85 if held at WOT so same as yours within the tollerence of accuracy of those gauges.

 

[Pleinmont]

Thats good to know - assume the gauges are pretty accurate then. Also means I can see when it needs doing again now I know it's supposed to run in the low 80s.

Thanks for the advice you gave me on setting up and hoses etc. was very helpful.
Took me a while to get all the bits, make up the pump and wire to a cigarette plug and get a day clear to tackle it and get boat back to normal again.
You saved me a lot of extra faffing on top of that

 

[Forp]

Hi,
I have purchased Antares 760 from 2007. I would like to remove a fuel tank and clean it. However, the removal is problematic. Any ideas how to get it through stern hatch? Seems to big for that.

 

[Pleinmont]

Hi,
I have purchased Antares 760 from 2007. I would like to remove a fuel tank and clean it. However, the removal is problematic. Any ideas how to get it through stern hatch? Seems to big for that.

I've thought about that before and I suspect it probably does come out the stern opening with a bit of manipulation if everything is moved out of the way. I can't imagine it come out going forward of the bulkhead (engine would be in the way too).

How bad is the tank inside?
If you are concerned the tank is dirty, alternatively, as a first option you could look for a company who pump out the fuel and polish it. I understand some of them fire it back in during the cleaning process which will loosen the gunk and sediment and gives the tank a decent clear out from the inside. Also be a good time to add a good dose of diesel bug killer or fuel conditioner before the polishing.
The tank won't be steam-cleaned spotless but should be pretty clean afterwards and a lot easier than taking the tank out.
You might find that does a good enough job?

 

[Forp]

I moved everything out of the way this morning and I plan to somehow navigate one side of the tank where the fresh water tank was. But I don't hope too much.

Yes, the tank seems to be dirty and also there was dirt on the filter.
I would like to remove it and clean it properly, but if that fails I will probably call some cleaning company or maybe drill 2 holes on top of it and close them after the cleaning.

 

[Pleinmont]

Good luck with the removal!
Yes cutting some access holes and fitting inspection hatches will allow you to get inside.

 

[Plum]

I moved everything out of the way this morning and I plan to somehow navigate one side of the tank where the fresh water tank was. But I don't hope too much.

Yes, the tank seems to be dirty and also there was dirt on the filter.
I would like to remove it and clean it properly, but if that fails I will probably call some cleaning company or maybe drill 2 holes on top of it and close them after the cleaning.

If you want to be able to see the whole inside of the tank you may need to cut 3 access holes (one can be the fuel level sender hole) as there are two baffles inside that divide the tank into three.

 

[Forp]

Thanks for the reminder! Yes, at least 2 holes + fuel level sensor hole.

I have a cable camera so I'll look through the fuel level sensor hole first to get a better feeling for the tank condition.

 

[Emle Bonavia]

There were some bad maintenance practice from previous owner... I believe there was water ingress at stainless steel bathing stripe, there was no auto bilge installed, god knows how long the oil pan was immersed...
Yes it will be a big project. I already oredered used pan for AQAD motor which is stainless steel one...

Btw, today the new Rocna Vulcan, 9 kg arrived and I hope it will set fine on original bow roller.

About rain ingress I found out that it's almost on all sealings... The majority where there are slots for table above lazarette and thru the covers of engine air intakes from both sides of the hull.

If someone can post some photos of autobilge installation using pressure switch from washing machine, it would be very helpfull for me.

 

[Emle Bonavia]

Hello Tomaz, I would like to ask for your help regarding the oil pan replacement. Just bought an Antares 760 with the VP and the pan is so rusty. I just bought a good used one and was planning to replace it. Would appreciate your advice

 

[Plum]

Hello Tomaz, I would like to ask for your help regarding the oil pan replacement. Just bought an Antares 760 with the VP and the pan is so rusty. I just bought a good used one and was planning to replace it. Would appreciate your advice

Hi, Tomaz has not been here for a few months so I have sent him a private message about your question........

 

[Emle Bonavia]

Hi, Tomaz has not been here for a few months so I have sent him a private message about your question........

Thanks a lot

 

[tomaz_slo]

Hello Tomaz, I would like to ask for your help regarding the oil pan replacement. Just bought an Antares 760 with the VP and the pan is so rusty. I just bought a good used one and was planning to replace it. Would appreciate your advice

Hello. In my case I decided to change rusty pan with stainless steel pan from AQAD41 engine. It's not an easy job. I'have done it with HIAB. Considered to do with pulley, but gave up. Firstly you must undo all the furniture on port side, then remove the fixed door window and sliding door, remove the engine hatch. Remove muffler, disconect the shaft, disconnect the shifting cable. Then first remove clutch. Disconnect electricity wires, diesel pipe and rev cable. Then remove 4 nuts from the engine supports. Not an easy job. You must do a strong but not big lifting tool. Fix this tool on both lifting points of the engine. Get a good HIAB/crane operator as it goes out on less than inch.. When done, I advise you to change all 4 rubber supports. Seal new pan with liquid seal and cork sealing.. When engine out it's an easy job to clean all heat exchangers and exchange shaft bearing. Oh, I forgot, but most likely you need to remove also the rudder to remove the shaft enough to get the engine out. You are free to ask for more details.

And you must ask yourself what was the reason of rusty pan!

 

[Plum]

Hello. In my case I decided to change rusty pan with stainless steel pan from AQAD41 engine. It's not an easy job. I'have done it with HIAB. Considered to do with pulley, but gave up. Firstly you must undo all the furniture on port side, then remove the fixed door window and sliding door, remove the engine hatch. Remove muffler, disconect the shaft, disconnect the shifting cable. Then first remove clutch. Disconnect electricity wires, diesel pipe and rev cable. Then remove 4 nuts from the engine supports. Not an easy job. You must do a strong but not big lifting tool. Fix this tool on both lifting points of the engine. Get a good HIAB/crane operator as it goes out on less than inch.. When done, I advise you to change all 4 rubber supports. Seal new pan with liquid seal and cork sealing.. When engine out it's an easy job to clean all heat exchangers and exchange shaft bearing. Oh, I forgot, but most likely you need to remove also the rudder to remove the shaft enough to get the engine out. You are free to ask for more details.

And you must ask yourself what was the reason of rusty pan!

Did you manage to find new engine mounts with the same hole spacing?

 

[tomaz_slo]

Did you manage to find new engine mounts with the same hole spacing?

Yes, after long research I found them in France. Quite affordable - less than 100 bucks/piece. I can attach link if you want…