Yes, that is how much I buy. I use Micron 350 and 5L gives enough for a 3rd coat just around the waterline and then it lasts 2 years as I stay in the water all year and only lift out every other year. However, I dry out on a tide 2 or 3 times a year to clean the prop and change the prop anode.
The standard prop on the 760 is made by Radice so in theory both your weblinks should be for the same anode but the Beneteau™ Replacement Anodes - Martyr Anodes one shows the shaft diameter of 40mm which is what I buy. When you fit it and after tightening the screw fill the counterbore with mastic (anything cheep will do) as this stops the anode wasting around and under the screw head which results in the screw no longer holding the anode securely.
I don't see how that will.make any difference at all.
How bad is the rust? I know space under the sump is minimal but maybe worth abrading, cleaning and treating without lifting? If you made something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Exfoliatin...cphy=1006621&hvtargid=pla-1192473802252&psc=1 to which you fixed a length of adrasive paper then strips of fabrick with cleaning agents, then rust converter fluid?
In such a confined space I think you would have to lift the engine a long way up in order to work on the sump and be able to make a good seal when refitting. An idea, for minimal cost, is to construct a scaffolding frame something like the one below, four legs resting on wooden boards against the hull, each side of the engine bearers, to spread the load with the legs in the four corners of the engine space. The top of this frame should be right at the top of the wheelhouse roof. You then have two options: first one: use two hoists, one at the front of the engine and one right at the back so you can hoist right out of the compartment and even lift the front of the engine much higher than the rear for better access. Option 2: use four hoists with two long lifting straps that go right under the engine side to side. One strap near the front the other near the rear. Lift the engine a little then hoise using the two hoists on one side while lowering the two on the other side. This will rotate the engine until it is up side down giving excellent access. This picture is just to illustrate the construction of the frame.
Yes, a good idea but given that the dry engine weighs half a tonne, plus the weight of the lifting frame, and you should plan for at least a safety factor of 3 if you are going to have your arms under the engine, you need to ensure the wheelhouse floor will support over 1.5 tonne. Which is why I proposed having the lifting frame legs,with load spreading wooden boards, standing on the hull.
Looks like you are the first! Or at least the first to admit it
There were some bad maintenance practice from previous owner... I believe there was water ingress at stainless steel bathing stripe, there was no auto bilge installed, god knows how long the oil pan was immersed...
Can't find a pic of mine but I used a switch just like the one in the link below from an old washing machine. Stepped up the hose that attaches to the small bore spigot to a 13mm piece of garden hose. The switch is mounted in the engine compartment at the top of the bulkhead between the water strainer and the primary fuel filter with the 13mm hose going straight down into the skeg cavity below it. If the water raises more than 100mm the switch closes.
Hi, have you received the new blue rubbing strip insert from the Beneteau dealer that you ordered? Did it fit ok?
