Antares 760 thread

tomaz_slo

Member
Joined
26 Sep 2022
Messages
39
Visit site
I finally got my Antares 7,60, year 1997 with TAMD41p-a engine. I need some help from A760 owners...

1. I find out there is not automatic bilge pump installed. What is best solution? To install additional bilge or just a sensor somewhere in the shaft compartment?
2. On engine compartment cover there was gas spring removed.. I can measure that the lenghth od spring should be 600mm, but I don't know the spring respons kg needed. Someone know that data? Also I will glue aluminium foil on the insulation layer as the fabric on the surface is falling apart. What type of foil would be good? I wil glue with Wuerth aerosol glue.
3. Electricity scheme is weird... An isolator on minus? All cables are messed and plus is not fused near baterries.. Did you keep that original scheme? Also charger is located near gasoil tank. I think will move it closer to batteries.
4. I will empty raw water sistem and check the condition of heat exchangers... Can I leave the sistem empty until spring or will there be an corrosion process if I leave it empty?
5. Front right triangular window is broken. I think it's plexi... Can someone confirm that?
6. Fresh water tank... Some DIY ideas for consumption monitoring? Maybe turbo water flow meter?

I will be happy if there are some answers.
Best regards, Tomaz from Slovenia.
 

Pleinmont

Active member
Joined
16 Aug 2019
Messages
305
Visit site
I finally got my Antares 7,60, year 1997 with TAMD41p-a engine. I need some help from A760 owners...

1. I find out there is not automatic bilge pump installed. What is best solution? To install additional bilge or just a sensor somewhere in the shaft compartment?
2. On engine compartment cover there was gas spring removed.. I can measure that the lenghth od spring should be 600mm, but I don't know the spring respons kg needed. Someone know that data? Also I will glue aluminium foil on the insulation layer as the fabric on the surface is falling apart. What type of foil would be good? I wil glue with Wuerth aerosol glue.
3. Electricity scheme is weird... An isolator on minus? All cables are messed and plus is not fused near baterries.. Did you keep that original scheme? Also charger is located near gasoil tank. I think will move it closer to batteries.
4. I will empty raw water sistem and check the condition of heat exchangers... Can I leave the sistem empty until spring or will there be an corrosion process if I leave it empty?
5. Front right triangular window is broken. I think it's plexi... Can someone confirm that?
6. Fresh water tank... Some DIY ideas for consumption monitoring? Maybe turbo water flow meter?

I will be happy if there are some answers.
Best regards, Tomaz from Slovenia.


Hi, congratulations on the new boat, I have one.

1 - I had a water level sensor fitted in the bilge near the prop shaft seal so if water rises pump comes on and alarm goes off. My installer did it so if the black batt switch is left active the pump will work at all times (other switches can all be off - water sensor and bilge pump are the only elec devices left on when I leave boat). It's a dry boat normally as shaft seal is dripless but the keel band screws failed a couple years ago causing a serious leak so once that was fixed I had the sensor fitted just in case something else leaked.
2 - My engine hatch has no strut on the first section (the one you lift for oil checks) but if you clear the seats and lift the whole floor up with section two it stays up by itself on the gas strut. Not sure the KG but can check if a label next time I go to boat.
Not sure about foil but I had to glue the insulation slab back to the hatch lid as it peeled off onto the engine - I used a tube of Sticks Like Sh*t (Evostik super adhesive). I don;t think a spray would have enough contact. Taped it with gorilla tape as it just wanted to fall off before setting (I could have taken the hatch off but couldn;t be bothered!) Once set the tape was removed.
3 - Electrics are different on mine.
4 - If left filled with water assume less air in system for rust on metal parts? Some parts will be copper anyway. Would be fine whilst parts are out being inspected.
5 - Yes plastic side windows - I believe only the front windscreen panels are glass.
6 - Could remove tank, fit a dip level sender and fit a gauge. Reliable way to see water level.
 

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,293
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
I finally got my Antares 7,60, year 1997 with TAMD41p-a engine. I need some help from A760 owners...

1. I find out there is not automatic bilge pump installed. What is best solution? To install additional bilge or just a sensor somewhere in the shaft compartment?
2. On engine compartment cover there was gas spring removed.. I can measure that the lenghth od spring should be 600mm, but I don't know the spring respons kg needed. Someone know that data? Also I will glue aluminium foil on the insulation layer as the fabric on the surface is falling apart. What type of foil would be good? I wil glue with Wuerth aerosol glue.
3. Electricity scheme is weird... An isolator on minus? All cables are messed and plus is not fused near baterries.. Did you keep that original scheme? Also charger is located near gasoil tank. I think will move it closer to batteries.
4. I will empty raw water sistem and check the condition of heat exchangers... Can I leave the sistem empty until spring or will there be an corrosion process if I leave it empty?
5. Front right triangular window is broken. I think it's plexi... Can someone confirm that?
6. Fresh water tank... Some DIY ideas for consumption monitoring? Maybe turbo water flow meter?

I will be happy if there are some answers.
Best regards, Tomaz from Slovenia.
Congratulations Tomaz. The inevitable long list of questions and jobs to do when you buy a boat ☺.

3) an isolator switch on the negative is typical on a French boat! Nothing wrong with that and I have retained it and when not on board use just that isolator which isolates both batteries completely. I have a 1,2,both,off switch to control which battery feeds the starter motor but is normally not touched. I have a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) that links both batteries for charging . I have fuses, fitted as standard by Beneteau, in the positive and negative wires that supply all the ancillary circuits and they are mounted in the engine compartment near to the back of the negative isolation switch. I have no fuses in the cables to the starter. It's debatable if you need them with such short well clipped cables.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Last edited:

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,293
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
I finally got my Antares 7,60, year 1997 with TAMD41p-a engine. I need some help from A760 owners...

1. I find out there is not automatic bilge pump installed. What is best solution? To install additional bilge or just a sensor somewhere in the shaft compartment?
2. On engine compartment cover there was gas spring removed.. I can measure that the lenghth od spring should be 600mm, but I don't know the spring respons kg needed. Someone know that data? Also I will glue aluminium foil on the insulation layer as the fabric on the surface is falling apart. What type of foil would be good? I wil glue with Wuerth aerosol glue.
3. Electricity scheme is weird... An isolator on minus? All cables are messed and plus is not fused near baterries.. Did you keep that original scheme? Also charger is located near gasoil tank. I think will move it closer to batteries.
4. I will empty raw water sistem and check the condition of heat exchangers... Can I leave the sistem empty until spring or will there be an corrosion process if I leave it empty?
5. Front right triangular window is broken. I think it's plexi... Can someone confirm that?
6. Fresh water tank... Some DIY ideas for consumption monitoring? Maybe turbo water flow meter?

I will be happy if there are some answers.
Best regards, Tomaz from Slovenia.
Re: 5. The side and rear windows are all Acrylic and unlike the glass front screen, have a very light coloured tint/colour so try to get the correct colour otherwise it will always look odd.
 

Jamie Dundee

Well-known member
Joined
24 Jul 2019
Messages
1,544
Visit site
3) I kept the main system but binned the auxiliary system and installed a separate fuse box connected to the house battery through an on/off switch. All auxiliaries now go through this and I have solar attached to the house battery with a dual direction vsr to the engine battery. Still a bit messy but bear in mind there are 6 NMEA 2k and 5 ethernet cables in there.

0FA5027F-3849-49A0-9D45-E78F3757C7D9.jpeg

There should be a bilge pump float switch at the lowest point in the lazarette under the fuel tank, you’ll need to remove the wooden floor to get at it. I replaced it with an auto pump which also acts as a switch for the main pump.

5ED75F64-1321-43ED-B6FA-C897CE5BD8B0.jpeg
 

tomaz_slo

Member
Joined
26 Sep 2022
Messages
39
Visit site
Thanks to all responses.
1. Regarding bilge, I have no float switch under fuel tank/wooden cover. There are only hoses 2 hoses for maunual and electric pump. Both are coming into lazarete from engine room.
2. Engine hatch in only one piece. So I'll have a lot of work checking oil level.. Didn't find alu foil. Maybe I'll put Armaflex instead. It's B class regarding fire protection.
3. I thought that engine and service battery are separated but I can put them in parallel with both switches. There are not separated consumers. All - engine and service - together as two red isolators are connected tohether on other side.
4. Still don't know if better to disassemble cooling sistem complletly and inspect it with general cleaning at home or just flush it with chemicals and fill it with antifreeze. There was some white vapour on high RPM at survey. Before that I intend to do a pressure test of aftercooler. Will use bicycle tube,cut it on both sides 20 cm from valve and fix it on the both water hoses terminals. Pump it with the pump with manometer and monitor if pressure will be constant for 10 minutes. What do you think?
5. I noticed that side windows are not completly transparent but at the moment I can' remove it out due the winter is coming. It's broken from closing mechanizem downwards. I have no idea if there is a glue to fix that.
6. I think the water tank has only inspection/cleaning cover and is not suitable to mount usual level sender.

It's one of the first A760 with the HINxxx01277xxxx. Maybe No.77?
 
Last edited:

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,293
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
Thanks to all responses.
1. Regarding bilge, I have no float switch under fuel tank/wooden cover. There are only hoses 2 hoses for maunual and electric pump. Both are coming into lazarete from engine room.
2. Engine hatch in only one piece. So I'll have a lot of work checking oil level.. Didn't find alu foil. Maybe I'll put Armaflex instead. It's B class regarding fire protection.
3. I thought that engine and service battery are separated but I can put them in parallel with both switches. There are not separated consumers. All - engine and service - together as two red isolators are connected tohether on other side.
4. Still don't know if better to disassemble cooling sistem complletly and inspect it with general cleaning at home or just flush it with chemicals and fill it with antifreeze. There was some white vapour on high RPM at survey. Before that I intend to do a pressure test of aftercooler. Will use bicycle tube,cut it on both sides 20 cm from valve and fix it on the both water hoses terminals. Pump it with the pump with manometer and monitor if pressure will be constant for 10 minutes. What do you think?
5. I noticed that side windows are not completly transparent but at the moment I can' remove it out due the winter is coming. It's broken from closing mechanizem downwards. I have no idea if there is a glue to fix that.
6. I think the water tank has only inspection/cleaning cover and is not suitable to mount usual level sender.

It's one of the first A760 with the HINxxx01277xxxx. Maybe No.77?
Regarding your comments about yout engine cooling system, difficult to make a comment until you explain what is the problem you are trying to investigate?

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

tomaz_slo

Member
Joined
26 Sep 2022
Messages
39
Visit site
Regarding your comments about yout engine cooling system, difficult to make a comment until you explain what is the problem you are trying to investigate?

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
Plum, on the test everything was ok. At not completly clean hull at full RPM 3600/min, speed 19.5 knots. Oil presure 75PSI and temperature 90C. But maybe too much white steam. Engine is 25 years old, has 1000 hours, looking good but without maintanence proof.
I would like to investigate if raw water cooling sistem is not leaking and that is not patitialy blocked. First to avoid a damage in case of raw water is coming into pistons (from the aftercooler) and second to be convinced that cooling is efficiant for few next years.
 

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,293
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
Plum, on the test everything was ok. At not completly clean hull at full RPM 3600/min, speed 19.5 knots. Oil presure 75PSI and temperature 90C. But maybe too much white steam. Engine is 25 years old, has 1000 hours, looking good but without maintanence proof.
I would like to investigate if raw water cooling sistem is not leaking and that is not patitialy blocked. First to avoid a damage in case of raw water is coming into pistons (from the aftercooler) and second to be convinced that cooling is efficiant for few next years.
In my experience of this engine, some white smoke is normal under high load, particularly if the bottom and prop are not perfectly clean. (My engine is 23 years old and 1500 hours). Recommend you remove and check the exhaust injection bend for reduced flow. Then clean the raw water circuit by circulating Rydelyme descaler. Do not dismantle anything else until you have done these two things. If I have a clean bottom and prop I can get 3850rpm and 22 knots at 82 degrees with some white smoke/steam and these figures have not changed in the past 8 years. With your not completely clean hull your figures look resonable. Suggest you do not start dismantling or presure testing anything until you have done the above. This shows my white smoke at 20 knots

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 

Plum

Well-known member
Joined
6 Jun 2001
Messages
4,293
Location
UK East Coast
Visit site
I finally got my Antares 7,60, year 1997 with TAMD41p-a engine. I need some help from A760 owners...

6. Fresh water tank... Some DIY ideas for consumption monitoring? Maybe turbo water flow meter?

I will be happy if there are some answers.
Best regards, Tomaz from Slovenia.
A very bright light shone through the green plastic tank wall will show you the water level.
or:
one of these connected to a 9volt smoke alarm battery which you slide up and down against the tank wall so the light illuminates to indicate the water level Non-contact Tank Water Level Sensor Switch Container Liquid Height Detector | eBay this is the one I made, using a microswitch that I had in stock.
20190531_155604b.jpg

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Last edited:
Top