Anchor Tripping

Jon magowan

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Hello All,

I enjoy anchoring but I constantly worry that one day I will end up fouling my anchor on something. It seems almost inevitable that it will happen sooner or later.

Having done a bit of research online it seems like the fishing fraternity advocate the system depicted in the attached photo. Basically the chain is attached to the anchor at the tripping point at the head of the shank, then also attached via a ‘weak’ link at the end of the shank.

The idea is that if the anchor is fouled, eventually, as you try to recover it, the weak link will give way and you will then be pulling the anchor from the tripping point on the shank. Presumably vastly increasing your chances of a successful recovery.

This seems like a great idea but I haven’t seen it anywhere amongst all the yachting publications and videos that I’ve consumed in the last couple of years since I started.

I’m sure there must be a reason why the yachting fraternity don’t seem to like this technique. Can anyone explain why ?IMG_0524.png
 

Roberto

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vyv_cox

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A technique that usually works is to attach a short length of chain, about 1.5 - 2 metres, between two lengths of rope somewhat longer than the depth. From the dinghy allow the chain loop to fall down the anchor rode while motoring the tender slowly ahead. The intention is to get the chain between the shank and crown of the fouled anchor. Then motor the tender ahead hard. With luck it will pull the anchor from the obstruction.

I have been rewarded several times with cans of beer for lending out my kit for this!
 

noelex

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It is fine for temporary stops, but I would not consider it safe for overnight anchoring.

Unfortunately, it is not going to always fix the problem. If you have a good quality anchor that sets quickly, the chain becoming caught is more common than the anchor. Even when the anchor is to blame, the technique will not always be successful.

Look at a typical example below that saw in Greece. Maybe it could have worked, but I doubt the chain could have been forced to the anchor crown.
You_Doodle_2024-06-24T15_24_12Z.jpeg
 

ctva

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vyv_cox

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This jimmygreen.com/anchor-trip-hooks-and-rings/32-10681-coastline-trip-hook#/884-option-without_lanyard is a common and probably much more effective device. standard fit in places like Greece where crossed and fouled anchors particularly when anchored stern to a quay are common.
I didn't open the link but have done so now. This hook is very similar to mine, in aluminium, cost £32. However, scrolling down the page I see there is an Ultra version in stainless steel for £234!

Sometimes yachting prices are difficult to comprehend.
 

vyv_cox

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There is also the farmer version, suitable for plough anchor chains

View attachment 179022
It has one particular advantage - weight. We managed to hook a heavy chain in about 10 metres depth. The flotation of my warps was too.much for the weight of my aluminium hook, which would not sink to the bottom. I had to tie a diving weight to it.
 

Tranona

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I didn't open the link but have done so now. This hook is very similar to mine, in aluminium, cost £32. However, scrolling down the page I see there is an Ultra version in stainless steel for £234!

Sometimes yachting prices are difficult to comprehend.
I bought the basic one when they first came out over 20 years ago. About £15 from memory. Worked well. Fail to see what the Ultra offers extra for the £200!
 

thinwater

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The few times I have hook an anchor, none of those tricks would work. There was a tree limb or chain all the way up in the throat. Even lifting by the eye shown in the OP's picture only pulled up the log. The actual tripping eye location is at the back of the fluke. The eye in the Bruce is a lashing eye, not a tripping eye.

If I an to bother with a tripping line (almost never--only when fishing over rocks) I will attach it to the back.

And yes, the idea of a weak link is mental for cruisers. Fishing is different.

rocna-anchor-features.jpg
 

Poignard

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From the 1944 edition of "The Yacht Master's Guide and Coaster's Companion" by F.G.G.Carr*

"Q: What is meant by "skowing" an anchor?

A: Bending the cable with a clove hitch round the crown, as a buoy-rope is bent, and taking the standing part to the ring, to which it is stopped with spunyarn. In the event of the anchor getting foul of some obstruction, if a great vertical strain be put upon the warp, the stopping will part, and the anchor can then be lifted up by the crown."


I have never tried this, or heard of it from any other source.

*Frank George Griffith Carr - Wikipedia
 

NormanS

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This jimmygreen.com/anchor-trip-hooks-and-rings/32-10681-coastline-trip-hook#/884-option-without_lanyard is a common and probably much more effective device. standard fit in places like Greece where crossed and fouled anchors particularly when anchored stern to a quay are common.
Having been involved with helping someone who had unfortunately fouled his anchor on the main electricity cable between Coll and Tiree 😳, I made a steel hook just like that one. It has been used successfully two or three times. I detest using a tripping line with a buoy.
 

NormanS

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To get your anchor stuck once is bad luck, but a second time is just poor seamanship.
How do you get that? In decades of anchoring, I've had four or five instances of my anchor being fouled. Discarded moorings or anchors, discarded fishing gear, and never in the same place twice. From your position of perfection, can you please give me some help as to how I can improve my seamanship to avoid this ever happening to me again. Thank you.
 
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