Refitting job #1

MapisM

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So, here I am. I've yet to start enjoying the new toy, and I'm already dealing with some refitting... :nonchalance:
Oh, well. Break Out Another Thousand, eh? 'Salright though, nothing unplanned.

Btw, I call this "job #1" because it's the first that was already debated in this thread, though just in generic terms.

In the meantime, I already posted also #2 and #3 jobs - the latter was related to the washing machine installation, discussed here, and the former was about the slightly bent blade on one prop, discussed here.
Apropos, for the records, that will also be fixed, but during the seatrial the boat was just half a knot short of her max speed when new.
So, obviously not just the engines, but also the props were doing a decent job, regardless of that blade... :encouragement:

But let's go back to #1, which is more tricky.
As it happens, these boats were originally built (all of them, it wasn't an option) with teak on the main deck.
And it was nicely done, too - see the first two brochure pics below, showing how it looked.
But unsurprisingly, age takes its toll on any exposed wood, on boats. Don't ask me how I know... :ambivalence:
In fact, the third pic shows what 13 years of wash, sun, rain etc. can do.
Btw, several details are different in this pic (winch, cleats, hatches), because the brochure pic shows one of the first boats built, and there were some changes during the years of production (mine being one of the latest). But I used the brochure pics because they give a better idea of the original deck design.

Now, I am going to take the bull by the horns, stripping all of it, before finishing the whole deck with some kind of antiskid material.
Based on what I read, I'm tempted to give Kiwigrip a try, but I'm open to suggestions.
Otoh, my main doubt is about whether and how to replicate the borders, as they did with the teak planks finishing.
Or should I keep it simple and just have antiskid above the whole surface currently covered in teak?

Feel free to throw in any sort of suggestions, I can assure you that I will consider them all!
...and SWMBO will decide, eventually. :cool:

Mind though, there's one exception:
please avoid the most obvious suggestion - i.e. rebuild the deck as it was because it's the nicest alternative.
I know, and I wouldn't argue with anyone willing to go that route on his boat.
But while I love wooden interiors, and I can live with teak in the cockpit, when it comes to exposed wood and its maintenance, I've already pulled my weight...! :rolleyes:

Bow1.jpg


Bow2.jpg


Bow0.jpg
 
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Portofino

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Teak job
My inclination would be get a yard to do it over the winter indoors .
1st year just enjoy the new ownership experiance and make a list .
# 3 seems short ---
I,am thinking Apreamare in Naples ,Xl the old Itama factory in Roma or Alfa marine , on the same river .
These guys in-between boat building do Jobing refits all the time .
Reason -it's a messy job and more important the surface under will be so rough and maybe damaged it almost certainly will need a kinda re-gel coat smoothing layer prior to application of the none slip .
It really all needs to be done indoors too .
Guys that do this every day will give it a professional Factory fresh finish .

At the end of the 1st season you may have # 4,5'6 etc too --borderline DIY er able .

Have you asked the Della Peita guys how do able it is to just paint after teak removal ?
They know what they have covered up !
 

longjohnsilver

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I like that teak! Is there no way it can be saved? I think I probably know what your reply will be, but it seems such a shame to rip it up.
 

vas

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Have you asked the Della Peita guys how do able it is to just paint after teak removal ?
They know what they have covered up !

+1

P, that's instrumental, how did they fit it, what was the finish under it, what glue/epoxy/sticky thing have they used and assert how easy is it to remove, not the teak, the glue under it to get a smoothish/rough finish that the new thing will stick to.
You remove, you remove it ALL, and you have to deal with the 10-12-15mm on the height of the teak that now shows the gelcoat that has to be cleaned and polished nice, or the kwickgrip whatever is going to wrap and go up the vertical areas (don't like it!)
Cleats and windlass look much beefier on the first pics :(

cheers

V.
 

MapisM

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My inclination would be get a yard to do it over the winter indoors
Agreed, that's what I would do normally - if it weren't that now I have the opportunity to get it made under the builder supervision, which has its importance for a job like this.
Btw, yep, he did already confirm me the feasibility.
And yep, they would cover the boat to do that, with one of those temporary structures that you surely have seen around.

That's all pre-arranged, actually.
That's why I was asking about the type of finishing/design/colour to use for the antiskid material, mostly... :)
 

MapisM

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I think I probably know what your reply will be
LOL, yeah, didn't I see it coming? :D
Not that I don't understand you, mind.
But if the antiskid laid above GRP is good enough for Nordhavn and the likes, it'll be good enough for us...
...and hopefully, a once in a lifetime job.
 

MapisM

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Cleats and windlass look much beefier on the first pics
All the hardware in the first pics was custom made for the yard, in alu alloy.
Pretty sure there was also a cost element in the decision to switch to more mainstream s/steel stuff (in the early naughties, I believe).
But I don't mind, because the design of the "old" alu cleats and fairleads was nice but not very practical.
The cleats are too low to hold more than one cable, and the fairleads had a sort of sharpish corner which I don't think would be good for the bow lines, in the long run.
All not very relevant in N Adriatic, where they use poles for mooring, but relevant elsewhere, CF included.
Besides, the new "all s/steel" hardware is very well made and solid - still shining as if it were new!

Ref the windlass, I see what you mean: the horizontal one in the first pic looks bigger compared to the vertical one used later.
But it's actually the equivalent Lofrans model - same power and chain size.
TBH, I like the Falkon (first pic), which is what I have also on the old tub in the twin gypsy version, because the free release of the chain with the red brake wheel is VERY convenient.
But surely the vertical version allows for a cleaner deck, and it's better if it should ever be used as a winch. Compromises... :)

What's your take on the antiskid design/colour, V?
Yours is one of the views I'm more interested in! :encouragement:
 

BartW

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you must have considered re-caulking ?
I assume it is solid teac, no ply underneath ?

then for sure I would recaulc,
making the grooves deeper with a router,
put new caulking in the grooves,
and sand the whole lot...

your big advantage is the GRP underneath (compared to mine)
so even if the teac / caulking is very thin, your deck remains water sealed !
 
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BartW

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I like that teak! Is there no way it can be saved? I think I probably know what your reply will be, but it seems such a shame to rip it up.

J, I missed your post, I'm in your camp,
In P's position, I would use/sand the teak until the last few mm'ers.

and in 7...10 years time he could convert the deck to the Nordhavn look
or buy a used Nordhavn ;)
 

petem

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As per the others, I'd sand the teak until there's none left then make a decision. But I sense your mind is already made up so non slip it is! Regarding the borders, is your question to leave them shiny for aesthetics or make them non slip too? I think Fairline leave their borders shiny and I can vaguely recall slipping on them to I'd go for non-slip to the borders too.
 

Hurricane

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Only just caught up with this news.
Congratulations

However, I disagree with most comments and can see where you are coming from.
Teak, especially heavily exposed areas is a real pig to keep looking good.
I like mine to look like new so I use the two part cleaner which, I'm sure, doesn't do the teak any favours.
Call me a heathen, but I would look for some kind of treatment that saves time and allows you to get on with the main job of enjoying your boating.
I would probably fit plastic teak - indeed, I am actually considering doing just that on our boat.
Those of you who are suggesting keeping the old teak should have a go at sanding it - it's ?loody hard work.
The trick I have used so far is to strip the black caulking down to the same level as the teak - after a few years, the black can be a mm or so above the wood.
This makes it uncomfortable to walk on.
I read a post on here from NickH explaining how he gets the black down using a VERY sharp chisel.
Using his technique, it is an easy job to get the black down to the teak level.
Then it is juts plain hard work to sand the deck back I used a good quality (Dewalt) orbital sander - dust goes everywhere.
SWMBO helped by following with a hoover but it took several days to sand the deck back to a good level.
We could have taken it all the way down to be like new but, that would have weeks.
I then finished off with the usual 2 part cleaner.
That was the beginning of last season and it was nice to walk on for the rest of last year.
I'm not sure how it will be for this season.
Just think about it - plastic teak has none of this maintenance bother.

So, I fully appreciate your idea of removing the problem completely.
 

Nigelpickin

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We've deleted all the teak from our new boat, coming later in the year; I'm not such a big fan. I mean, I can't think of anything else that looks so good at the boat show and so average a month later - it's just a pain - for us anyway.
So we will have GRP finish in our cockpit as well as the rest of the boat - and retrofit flexi teak if we feel it's necessary.
 
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npf1

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I had white Kiwigrip on the last boat. Very easy to apply although a bit a trail an error required to make the texture uniform. It covered a 'multitude of sins' too - in that the prep was only sanding with 40 grit.

But, it wasn't very easy to keep it clean as the dirt accumulated in some of the cavities (bust bubbles). It was subsequently redone with watered down kiwigrip to 'fill in' these cavities, which improved things but it still wasn't easy. It only looked fully clean, once per year after jetwashing it. It looked 'ok' after a hosepipe wash.

I've just got a new (to me) boat that needs the non skid sorting out. This time I'm using some stuff from Grapefruit graphics (Grapetread????), which is basically white sandpaper that come in 48" wide rolls. Approx £50 per sq metre plus fitting. Seems far easier and quicker than doing Kiwigrip. Fingers crossed, it will last more than 5 years.
 

longjohnsilver

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I'd question how fake teak stands up to the Med sun. Judging from some of what I've seen in unsunny UK and how that has not weathered at all well I'd be looking to see how it's fared on other boats before fitting it myself.
 
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Deleted User YDKXO

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I'd question how fake teak stands up to the Med sun. Judging from some of what I've seen in unsunny UK and how that has not weathered at all well I'd be looking to see how it's fared on other boats before fitting it myself.

And also how hot it is underfoot. I've heard that it can be hotter than real teak underfoot
 

Orange

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From their website:

This 2nd generation synthetic teak decking has, along with improving the heat reflecting properties, also been developed to reduce thermal transfer in hot climates. Flexiteek 2G cools 30% faster under foot than traditional synthetic decking, allowing you to walk across it barefoot.
 
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Deleted User YDKXO

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From their website:

Fair enough but it doesnt actually state how the thermal transfer of 2G Flexiteek compares to real teak! Even real teak can be too hot to walk on in the Med sun so Flexiteek would need to be similar or better
 
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