Windlass motor failing

[[2574]]

I have a 1000w 12v anchor windlass which last summer began to sporadically fail. When pressing the up switch nothing happened, 'twas apparently dead. On another occasion all would be well.

When refusing to operate I could hear the relay clicking and I believe that 12v was getting to the windlass motor but nothing was happening at the motor end. However it seems that if the gypsy is rotated a small amount the motor would all of a sudden start operating.

Do these symptoms point to worn contacts on the armature? I think I'm correct in saying that a 12v dc motor has brushes which pass the current to the armature and that these brushes can be subject to wear and therefore, eventually, poor connectivity. Does that sound about right or am I barking up the wrong tree?

TIA

rob

 

[Happydaze]

had the same sort of problem with our SL windlass 2 years back. I removed the motor and found the insulation on the brush wires were catching on the brush carriers because the brushes had worn and this prevented the full pressure of the springs hold the brushes in contact with the armature contact. I trimmed about 6mm of insulation off the wire and all has been good. I may need new brushes soon though! Go have a look.

 

[MarkG]

Yes I had a similar problem with a Lofrans, it would go down, but not up.
I found the stud that took the 12v through the case to the brushes had broken. I replaced the stud for a few pence as against £750 for a complete motor.
I would guess you can open yours up and have a look.

 

[nedmin]

Could be open circuit on brushes as suggested or could be an open circuit on the armature(the bit that goes round) prob. is that the connections on the commutator segments are very often not soldered,just crimped by turning over bits of copper,then you get a bad connection, if one connection is bad it will always stop in the same place.As you prob. havent got test gear,look at the windings if they all look the same colour its worth soldering the wires onto the commutator ends.Get a sharp knife and scrape the wire where they join onto the commutator try and clean as far round the wire as you can and also the commutator where the wire joins. You need some good soldering flux and solder.If there is a bad connection you should see it.But Make sure you dont solder where the brushes run.

 

[PeterGibbs]

Agreed, but in my case this erratic performance resulted from a poor connection in the hand held control, so I advise to check it out from the operating switch downwards.

PWG

 

[Tidewaiter2]

Thanks for posting this, ours goes for a bit, then stops, then goes again, if you lift foot off switch and replace.

Thought it might be the switch under the rubber cover- had similar problem with an outboard cutout switch, but forumites posts on your thread v. useful as to other likely causes- it's an old windlass, up only.

 

[jerryat]

[ QUOTE ]
Agreed, but in my case this erratic performance resulted from a poor connection in the hand held control, so I advise to check it out from the operating switch downwards.

PWG

[/ QUOTE ]

Completely agree. I'd check out the relay first, especially as the contacts eventually get worn and start arcing periodically at first. Sometimes gives the same symptoms as the OP described.

 

[William_H]

You need to attach a volt meter to the motor itself to confirm there is power even when the motor fails. This will clear any doubts about the relays switches etc.
Yes I think the problem is most likely in the brush to commutator connection.
This may appear blackened as poor connection makes more sparking.
Make sure the brushes are long enough with enough pressure. The commutator can be cleaned with wet and dry sand paper or similar.
Have a look at the connections of the wire as Nedmin says but I feel this is low likely hood. good luck olewill