MontyMariner
Well-known member
I met a Belgian lad in Cherbourg this summer, he had made a Bimini frame for his narrow 26 footer and mounted two industrial (house) solar panels on top. I think he said that they were rated at just over a kilowatt!
what size solar panel
- Thread starter Rainbow21
- Start date
Refueler
Well-known member
Pal of mine with his B31 - made his own transom arch ... then mounted two large heavy 200w panels ......
Few weeks back we had storm conditions go through ... one panel is now at bottom of harbour - other panel is now in his Dacha along with the arch frame.
He's now thinking where to put this panel !!
oldmanofthehills
Well-known member
A 6hp outboard should have an output from the magneto - assuming it has no 6v starter battery or similar. Should be a pair of red black wires with bullet coupler that goes no-where. If no output find out if manufacturers allow for charging output and give up if they dont
Assuing there is an output from the magneto will generally be AC unless pre-rectified by internal component. Check with a meter on 20v dc setting. If nothing then its ac. Then check on ac setting, probably about 18v ac when running. You then need a bridge rectifier - I would suggest 10A or larger - this has 4 terminals - 2 with a squiggle for ac, plus one +, one -. You need need suitable disconectable coupler to link it to the boat 12v. You may not need a regulator if when running the battery voltage does not rise above 14.5v
GBPC15005-E4/51 | Vishay Bridge Rectifier, 15A, 50V, 4-Pin | RS
PhillM
Well-known member
ashtead
Well-known member
I guess he used it as an aero foil sail as well to give lift -sure he wasn’t a kite surfer
William_H
Well-known member
Domestic PV panels I think seem to be limited in physical size to that which one man can lift and manage. ie about 2m by 1m. My 10yo domestic panels are rated at just under 200w but I believe with improvements in efficiency you might get 300w or more per panel. Still a long way short of Belgian's over 1000w for 2 panels. even so a very cost effective way to get solar power if you have room for the panels. (and can handle storms)
Re charging from OB motor. Op needs info on charge available. Old motors were limited in voltage to an AC supply to power incandescent lamps. (so 12v RMS) This voltage is not really enough to produce 14v DC from rectifier to push a charge in to battery. if that is the case he an make a rectifier using schotky diodes which have a lower volt drop. (so my old Johnson would charge .3 amp at cruise revs) ie not much. Modern small motors may be better designed for charging. in my caseidecided not worth the effort.
As said the usual way to manage power is decent battery capacity to last for a weekend's use with small solar panels to recharge over the following week. Might be a bit difficult to have enough solar to continually meet current requirements. (all depending on your use habits) ol'will
Neeves
Well-known member
That must have been seriously heavy - they would destroy the sailing characteristics of a 26' yacht.I guess he used it as an aero foil sail as well to give lift -sure he wasn’t a kite surfer
Jonathan
Rainbow21
New member
my Tuhatso 6hp indeed has a cable, which comes out of the bottom front of outboard and enters into the stern locker where it terminates with a red and black cable with bullet connections.
Some of this is a bit above my head, as I have not got around to learning electric yet, but I know a man who can sort this for a couple of beers.
Alicatt
Well-known member
One of the converted Dutch style barges at our haven has a fully steerable solar array on his foredeck where the original cargo hatch would have been, it tilts, tips and rotates to follow the sun.
2 weeks ago we were teasing him about it when the trees were getting trimmed back that he was not getting enough solar.
Airscrew
Active member
I have a 10w panel that keeps the starter battery fully charged all year. Its always 13.2 when I get on.
I disconnect the house battery when not on the boat for a while.
If you have, and want to run, an auto bilge pump when you are not on the boat, then 30w should be enough for the starter and house battery.
Thats assuming batteries are healthy and fully charged ofcourse.
It is a whole lot of different calcs if you want solar to run all the electrics when you are sailing and dont want to run the engine.
But for most of us, who day sail, than the house battery/ies should be more than enough to get you from mooring to destination, and the engine used to moor will normally be enough to recharge the house batts.
I disconnect the house battery when not on the boat for a while.
If you have, and want to run, an auto bilge pump when you are not on the boat, then 30w should be enough for the starter and house battery.
Thats assuming batteries are healthy and fully charged ofcourse.
It is a whole lot of different calcs if you want solar to run all the electrics when you are sailing and dont want to run the engine.
But for most of us, who day sail, than the house battery/ies should be more than enough to get you from mooring to destination, and the engine used to moor will normally be enough to recharge the house batts.
Refueler
Well-known member
This is how I look at it and do similar.
... but one of the factors with threads like this - the more serious solar user posts and it changes from basic top up a battery to powering inverters ... charging up multi bank batterys ....
For such a weekender / day sail solution - the cheapo panels i use - that get bombed on threads like this - actually do the job. In fact the 12" x 12" cheapo panel with PWM controller tops up my two 90A/hr batts fine on one of my boats ...
Of course there is no way I would expect the panel to keep up with cruise demand ... thats where alternator and shore power come in ... but it puts back what Autohelm and Plotter takes out.