ALEXD
New member
What are the best/most economic for 40 gal tank.
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water pumps and heaters
- Thread starter ALEXD
- Start date
Talbot
Active member
You will need to give a bit more detail before we can understand what you are trying to do, and thus be able to advise you /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
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ALEXD
New member
What I would like to achieve is hot and cold running water to the galley sink and head basin/shower. The previous system has been stripped out (not by me), I think it was located under the galley sink, that is adjacent to the engine. The 60 gal tank (not 40gal) is in the keel
What would be ideal is a pump to pressurise the system, with a small hot water cylinder with a heat exchanger to the engine. All with the necessary controls and safety systems. Also preferably to be fitted by myself (basic pluming, engineering and carpentry skills)
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What would be ideal is a pump to pressurise the system, with a small hot water cylinder with a heat exchanger to the engine. All with the necessary controls and safety systems. Also preferably to be fitted by myself (basic pluming, engineering and carpentry skills)
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Trevethan
New member
I fitted out my water system. I bought a Shurflo variable speed pump (cost about £100 I think) and a calorifier from a firm that bulds canal boats -- 12 gllons for with two heating coils and a 1000 watt immersion for about £160 (very good price)
The calorifier I install in the engine room, ditto the pump. (The pump is a bit loud so I think I will adjust the way it is mounts so its quieter.
I had a steel frame for the calorifer welded up and painted. This was bolted to the bulkhead and holds the tank securely. I also added some cargo straps that go around the fram, tank and a couple of hoops also bolted to the bulkhead.
Make sure you engine header tank is higher that calorifier!
The hardest part of the job for me was teeing off the water rail of the engine -- the rail is quite old and alloy and I had to be very gentle removing the thermostat.
I double clipped the pipework as when the water got hot, one of the pipes worked its way off the calorifer!
Its a good idea to fit a non-return valve between the cold water and the hearter so you dont warm up your tanks through convection.
We used ordinary bathroom taps from local plumbers (very cheap) with solid copper tubing connectors screwed in. Then you warm upp the hose and slide it over (very hard work) and double cclip them.
System works fine except for a small dribble (a drop a minute) from the pressure valve, which probably needs a quarter tuner turn.
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The calorifier I install in the engine room, ditto the pump. (The pump is a bit loud so I think I will adjust the way it is mounts so its quieter.
I had a steel frame for the calorifer welded up and painted. This was bolted to the bulkhead and holds the tank securely. I also added some cargo straps that go around the fram, tank and a couple of hoops also bolted to the bulkhead.
Make sure you engine header tank is higher that calorifier!
The hardest part of the job for me was teeing off the water rail of the engine -- the rail is quite old and alloy and I had to be very gentle removing the thermostat.
I double clipped the pipework as when the water got hot, one of the pipes worked its way off the calorifer!
Its a good idea to fit a non-return valve between the cold water and the hearter so you dont warm up your tanks through convection.
We used ordinary bathroom taps from local plumbers (very cheap) with solid copper tubing connectors screwed in. Then you warm upp the hose and slide it over (very hard work) and double cclip them.
System works fine except for a small dribble (a drop a minute) from the pressure valve, which probably needs a quarter tuner turn.
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